Cam questions
While I have you reading this... :D What valve,valve springs and such should be changed to go to these cams? I was told to upgrade valve springs, and I'd want to change the 1.94/1.50 valves to probably 2.00/1.56(1.57?) because the heads are already ported, and I don't wanna spend $$$$ on new heads, unless I have to. I was also told that idle issues could arise as well.
I guess i've got a couple questions in there, haha. Also, does anyone have .cam profiles for these cams I can plug into desktop dyno? Thanks a bunch :cheers:
Check with the mfr's recommendation for valve springs. They usually cover whats needed and whether the heads need to be modified to fit the springs.
Deskop Dyno has a screen to enter the cam specs. You need to know:
intake duration @ .050 lobe lift
exhaust duration @ .050 lobe lift
intake lift @ valve
exhuast lift @ valve
intake centerline
lobe separation angle
Be sure to set the valve lift based on the rocker size you will use. Most cams for small block chevys are spec'd at 1.5 rocker ratio. Use the duration given by the cam mfr at .050 lobe lift. The gross duration is pretty meaningless. All the cam information is available on the cam mfr websites. Lingenfelter, TPIS and GM usually don't give intake center of lift so you have to guess at it. A best guess is to use the LSA angle which will put the cam timing at 0 advance. Cams are usually ground 0 - 6 degrees advanced.
Valve Locks
Comp Cam.....611-16.....$26.95
Valve Spring Retainers (Titanium)
Lunati.....LN0025-1.....$9.37 @ 16 = $149.92
Valve Spring Shims
Lingenfelter.....10185066.....$1.46 @ 16 = $23.36
Valve Springs
Lunati.....LN0018DBLAS.....$7.49 @ 16 = $119.84
Aren't some of my parts still usable? I upgraded the cam this year, but want a roller cam to get the power out of the motor. I am now running the 12-404-4 Comp Cam (CS 268AH-14) right now. I didn't have any input, my mechanic and machinist put that one in. If I wanna see higher hp, I was told to go roller and everyone says good things about the 219. Hmm, I'm gonna double think this one now, damn that's a lot of money for a cam.
******EDIT********
BY THE WAY, THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS
[Modified by black_89_vette, 11:01 PM 12/13/2001]
The dyno plots at the rear wheels is shown on my website under dyno section: http://home.pacbell.net/dorenemc/
From what I've seen this curve was very similar to the LPE 219/219 cam,
in fact if anything it's maybe slightly smaller than the 219/219 cam.
Personally, I'd opt for a hyd roller and since you have a SR I'd stick with the LPE 219/219 cam. But if you really feel you want more power and a slightly more aggressive mid-range you might consider a 232/236 solid cam from comp cams. Although, to be honest with heads that flow in the under 250cfm category you will have a better matched combo with either the 219/219 hyd or the 224/232 solid cam that I used to run. Actually, it's for sale - my buddy who bought the top end off the 355 I used to have is using a larger cam since he's got a 412, so he would sell you that comp cams 224/232 cam for cheap. I'd say it has no more than 15K miles on it.
Scott
My cam 420hp@5000 RPM 479tq@3500 RPM
LT4 HOTCAM 419hp@5500 RPM 450tq@4000 RPM
LPE 219/219 410hp@5000 RPM 510tq@3500 RPM
All other factors were kept the same. I downloaded the LT4hotcam.cam file from the net. I set it up as Hydraulic, .525/.525, 219/229 @ 0.050. I set the 219 cam up as roller, .525/.525, 219/219 @ 0.050. Both cams at 112 centerline.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Of course a 3-angle valve job with those 2.00/1.56 valves is in order. Check the valve guides, replace the seals, install 7/16" rocker studs and 1.5:1 ProMagnums (the self aligning type so you won't need new guide plates & push rods). When you select the valve springs to match the cam toss the oil shedders used atop the stock springs, use Ti retainers & 10deg keepers. This will realy lighten up your valve train and allow maybe 200-500 rpm boost before valve float.
So you're real close, I doubt the 218/228 duration will change much from a 219/229. I would normally say that you'd be pleased with the hot cam, but that's actually about what you have now (according to your software), so it would be a waste of time.
I would seriously consider finding a dynojet somewhere. That's what most people use, it's what NASCAR uses, so it's accurate enough for me.



















