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anyone out there ever incounter a bad u joint, i have pinging noise coming from the right side and i checked the brakes and pretty sure its not that, happens more when first start out, when them is presure, if you driving and not on gas doesnt do it also i am getting a slight vibration over 70 mph and just had brand new tires put on and balanced...anything else it could be?
anyone out there ever incounter a bad u joint, i have pinging noise coming from the right side and i checked the brakes and pretty sure its not that, happens more when first start out, when them is presure, if you driving and not on gas doesnt do it also i am getting a slight vibration over 70 mph and just had brand new tires put on and balanced...anything else it could be?
I just repaced my drivers side half shaft u joints about a month ago at 100k miles. I had a clicking sound on acceleration. Some people will also hear a clunk sound when changing gears. I could see the caps on the joints were cracked upon inspection. Jack up the rear and rotate the shaft with the e-brake off. You may feel some play in it. I used Spicer sealed joints for replacements purchased localy.
yea mine is making it at first start forward and reverse and acel, its making a binding/ clicking noise sounds like its a u joint, how hard to remove the shaft?
i actually posted about the same thing about three days ago. it was my u-joints (driver side half shaft). relatively easy job, get a quality set of u-joints, you don't want to be doing this again anytime soon.
I went to harbor freight and bought the really long three pack of socket extensions and a U-joint press. Not too hard of a job at all. Go with the Spicer sealed joints. I was told not to add grease on the caps when installing.
I've had my rear suspension apart a few times, it's not too bad. Just make sure you mark the position of the bolts that efect the angle of the dogbone (inboard end has a degree plate on them and turning the bolt has a cam effect and changes the angle of the suspension).
To undo the spring bolts (outboard), put a piece of wood or a hockey puck on a floorjack and lift on the spring, then loosen the bolt and let the jack down slowly.
To get to the inboard joint bearing cap bolts (8mm) use a very long (24") extension and you can get to them pretty easy from in the wheel well instead of trying to bend and twist your hand around all the suspension pieces from underneath. Have the e-brake off and tranny in neutral because you'll have to rotate the shafts to get to the cap bolts.
Good luck getting the joints out of the shafts...I broke a 4" vice and nearly broke a 6" trying to free them. Had to take a trip to a machine shop
Don't forget a soothing radio station and refreshments
Fill a spray bottle with motor oil. Spray oil on one u-joint at a time and take a test drive after each one. If the noise changes, it's a u-joint and you might as well change them all.
Mine sounded more like a loud squeaking door hinge that followed wheel speed and only under acceleration. It would go quiet with foot off gas. I isolated the u-joints with the spray bottle method, then replaced them. Never heard the noise again.
Clicks and clunks usually come from the spindle splines being rusty and hub bearing assemblies.