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That helps a lot, WVZR-1. It is amazing to me that the sound created by these small pieces can be loud enough to be obnoxious inside the cockpit.
But, in your photo, which piece is the reluctor ?
Is this used on all auto trans Corvettes? Reason for aksing is I don't recall seeing anything that looked quite like your photo on my 1992 when they had the VSS and gears out during my ring and pinion change project.
Jim G
reluctor is the "toothed wheel" or tone wheel. This is used by all electronically controlled GM transmissions and the axle ratio/tire dimensions are part of the PCM tune to control accuracy of the speedo/odo. Your SSR would have had a similar set up. I don't know about "obnoxious" but it is what the OP of this 5+ year old thread was asking!
reluctor is the "toothed wheel" or tone wheel. This is used by all electronically controlled GM transmissions and the axle ratio/tire dimensions are part of the PCM tune to control accuracy of the speedo/odo. Your SSR would have had a similar set up. I don't know about "obnoxious" but it is what the OP of this 5+ year old thread was asking!
Ok, I understand now. This is the setup for an electronically controlled transmission vehicle.
Yes, my SSR would have had this setup then. We were able to correct the speedometer after we went from 3.73 to 4.56 (not as radical as it sounds - the SSR had tires that were almost 30" diameter) via a simple numerical entry via LS EDit.
The 700r4 and 4L60 transmission VSSs put out a sine wave. It's basically just an AC motor run as an alternator.
The 4L60E (E for electronically controlled) transmissions use the reluctor type VSS. It puts out a square wave. There are electronics in the VSS to make all this happen.
The 700r4 and 4L60 transmission VSSs put out a sine wave. It's basically just an AC motor run as an alternator.
The 4L60E (E for electronically controlled) transmissions use the reluctor type VSS. It puts out a square wave. There are electronics in the VSS to make all this happen.
Got an issue with vss or tranny need some advice :)
Hey everybody, I'm new to this forum but I see the folks here seem to be really friendly and knowledgeable and i'm looking for some knowledge
I have a 95 LT 1 vette it has about 131K i've owned it for a few years and have steadily restored it cosmetically and mechanically to a pretty good condition. Lately i have jad an issue if i drive it for a period of 40 min or more my spedometer goes to 0 and will not show the speed and if i am at a complete stop i feel as if the car starts shifting in second gear all my torque is gone and it take a while to get moving, once its moving it shifts fine, but once i am at a complete stop same thing all while speedo is at 0. Now if i let the car sit shut off about 15 min it drives fine again and then may not do this for a few days or a week but then comes back after prolong driving. Do you think its the VSS sensor, or a bad solenoid, have had the trans flushed about a week ago and has not fixed the issue. Also if it is the VSS how difficult is it to do this in my driveway, I have racing ramps that i use for oil changes?
All your input is much appreciated it ahead of time
Hey everybody, I'm new to this forum but I see the folks here seem to be really friendly and knowledgeable and i'm looking for some knowledge
I have a 95 LT 1 vette it has about 131K i've owned it for a few years and have steadily restored it cosmetically and mechanically to a pretty good condition. Lately i have jad an issue if i drive it for a period of 40 min or more my spedometer goes to 0 and will not show the speed and if i am at a complete stop i feel as if the car starts shifting in second gear all my torque is gone and it take a while to get moving, once its moving it shifts fine, but once i am at a complete stop same thing all while speedo is at 0. Now if i let the car sit shut off about 15 min it drives fine again and then may not do this for a few days or a week but then comes back after prolong driving. Do you think its the VSS sensor, or a bad solenoid, have had the trans flushed about a week ago and has not fixed the issue. Also if it is the VSS how difficult is it to do this in my driveway, I have racing ramps that i use for oil changes?
All your input is much appreciated it ahead of time
You could do the VSS in your driveway if you can reach the left rear of the transmission. You might check first for a loose or bad connection, maybe unlatch the connector and clean and then reattach. The VSS for yours is quite inexpensive and it's likely worth an attempt.
You could do the VSS in your driveway if you can reach the left rear of the transmission. You might check first for a loose or bad connection, maybe unlatch the connector and clean and then reattach. The VSS for yours is quite inexpensive and it's likely worth an attempt.
It appears mine is on the rear right i will try replacing it over the weekend as this issue is now getting more frequent, hopefully there is not a huge mess from transmission fluid leaking out and me being able to pop that other one out.
Any advice on an easy way to get that vss out of there?
It appears mine is on the rear right i will try replacing it over the weekend as this issue is now getting more frequent, hopefully there is not a huge mess from transmission fluid leaking out and me being able to pop that other one out.
Any advice on an easy way to get that vss out of there?
Thanks for all the help.
The VSS is on the "LEFT" - the electronic connector for the transmission is on the right rear and you need to do nothing with that presently. Sitting behind the wheel the LEFT is DRIVER SIDE and RIGHT is passenger side.
You only want to check the connector first and you'll not need to remove the VSS yet. To remove the VSS there's just one bolt and the VSS should pull straight out. You don't want to pry and twist very much.
The VSS is on the "LEFT" - the electronic connector for the transmission is on the right rear and you need to do nothing with that presently. Sitting behind the wheel the LEFT is DRIVER SIDE and RIGHT is passenger side.
You only want to check the connector first and you'll not need to remove the VSS yet. To remove the VSS there's just one bolt and the VSS should pull straight out. You don't want to pry and twist very much.
You should be able to find several tutorials.
Thanks WVZR-1 i have looked all over for a tutorial but nothing that resembles the setup of the c4 (only some GM 4x4's) so hopefully i can dive it up on my race ramps and get under there to check it out, but a tutorial would be really helpful though as I said I haven't found any pertaining to a corvette or even a camaro/trans am VSS replacement
Thanks WVZR-1 i have looked all over for a tutorial but nothing that resembles the setup of the c4 (only some GM 4x4's) so hopefully i can dive it up on my race ramps and get under there to check it out, but a tutorial would be really helpful though as I said I haven't found any pertaining to a corvette or even a camaro/trans am VSS replacement
Thanks for all your help
Check out Monster Transmission's website. I think that is where I got my VSS replacement info. Was able to use my old VSS and put it on the 700R I bought from them (which is leaking from the yoke by the way, despite the car not moving off the jacks since installation).
Check out Monster Transmission's website. I think that is where I got my VSS replacement info. Was able to use my old VSS and put it on the 700R I bought from them (which is leaking from the yoke by the way, despite the car not moving off the jacks since installation).
I had my neighbor who is also a gm mechanic help me find the VSS behind the rear left (just as WVZR-1 said) it is NOT easy to find if you don't know what you are looking for , and you have to replace it sort of blindly if you use jacks or ramps, but once you get it in there and its settled in its done and the amount of work is just minimal to replace it (about 15-20min). Once I had it out I could see it was leaking oil inside the connection housing onto the connector pins. Problem resolved with replacement and "Shadofax" rides good as new!
Thanks for all the advice...