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Got my new opti today, don't have the old one off yet but have read plenty about getting it out. Looks like I have a long weekend ahead.
One question I have is - how do you get it aligned properly? It looks like the mounting base is keyed to only fit one way but what about the splined shaft? How do I know the rotor inside is in the same location as the one removed?
OK I lied, second question. When I get the old one out I want to crack it open. What kind of fasteners are those holding the cap one? They look like an inside-out torx? What size/name tool do I look for to remove these screws? Who sells them?
If you got an MSD opti, it comes with an inverted Torx tool to remove the screws on the old cap. I don't know what size they are, but if you search here, I know it's been mentioned before.
I took my old cap off first (before removing the opti from the car), and marked the rotor location with a pencil. Then I made sure the rotor location on the new one lined up the same before installing it.
the inverted torx socket is size e4, i got mine from snap-on but if you got the msd it comes with the tool. i found that out after i already bought the the socket, and the spline is slotted so it will only go on one way, you cant put it on wrong .very easy job, if you are mechanically inclined should only take about 3 hours.
Last edited by bigwave71; May 1, 2008 at 07:28 PM.
It is an E4 and Snap On is a wonderful choice !!!! If you are ever in a pinch your throttle body screws will work as an emergency E4 though.
You will need a deep E4 b.t.w. One word of caution DO NOT force the opti on and you will be fine. Now is a good time to do plugs,wires and hoses too. If you can't find a Snap On dealer you can buy it online. Matco and Mac both have it as well, it's not as good but they have it.
For what you are going to use it for though any brand will be fine.
Last edited by wayne lowry; May 1, 2008 at 07:42 PM.
Ok this gives me an excuse to post a pic of the lightly used AC Delco opti I just received. You can see the key
Question for y'all - see the hairline crack ~11 oclock to the left of the title? its almost rectangular shape and goes up to (but not including) the ridge. It is NOT loose, but should that be something to be concerned with??
Autozone sells an E4 inverted torx socket. Also, per Wayne, do not force the Opti-Spark. When it is aligned correctly it will slide right on. How do I know? Live and learn. If someone says it takes them 3 hours to do a job, I will find away to make it 6 hours. Good luck.
Ok this gives me an excuse to post a pic of the lightly used AC Delco opti I just received. You can see the key
Question for y'all - see the hairline crack ~11 oclock to the left of the title? its almost rectangular shape and goes up to (but not including) the ridge. It is NOT loose, but should that be something to be concerned with??
IF it is a crack I would not try it because moisture, oil,etc., could get inside. The picture sort of makes it look like a spot weld or something of the sort. If this is this case it might be ok.
looks like it may be a casting defect. if you cant see through the crack or if a VERY slight tap with a hammer doesnt break it it will probly be ok. there isnt really a lot of pressure or force in the area of the dist.
Thanks geist for the picture. I didn't look at it close enough to see that notch. If this is the case then the torx bit isn't a big issue except to take the original apart.
Using a regular torx head bolt as a tool is a great idea !!!!
All this started because of the water pump so it wont be too bad to get at it since all the hoses are now new. Also got a plug wire set since I am in there. Looks like the worst part of this job is getting the balancer off.
Thanks geist for the picture. I didn't look at it close enough to see that notch. If this is the case then the torx bit isn't a big issue except to take the original apart.
Using a regular torx head bolt as a tool is a great idea !!!!
All this started because of the water pump so it wont be too bad to get at it since all the hoses are now new. Also got a plug wire set since I am in there. Looks like the worst part of this job is getting the balancer off.
The balancer is not that bad. After taking out the three bolts(I think 16mm) I got under the car and used a long skinny pull handle to tap/bang it loose. Others I think have used blocks of wood from the top. The crank will turn when trying to loosing the bolts. Also, remember patience when doing the plugs and wires
The balancer is not that bad. After taking out the three bolts(I think 16mm) I got under the car and used a long skinny pull handle to tap/bang it loose. Others I think have used blocks of wood from the top. The crank will turn when trying to loosing the bolts. Also, remember patience when doing the plugs and wires
Yes, it should take somewhere between a few minutes and 3 days to get the balancer off, depending on the stories you read here - LOL! I was lucky, and it was more toward the few minutes end of the spectrum. Make sure to put some anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the balancer when you reinstall it. And loosen the power steering pump bolts to allow you to slide the pump forward a bit to give you more clearance to run the wires on the driver's side. I also removed the coil and belt tensioner to give me a little more working room.
The balancer is not that bad. After taking out the three bolts(I think 16mm) I got under the car and used a long skinny pull handle to tap/bang it loose. Others I think have used blocks of wood from the top. The crank will turn when trying to loosing the bolts. Also, remember patience when doing the plugs and wires
How the he11 did you get at this from underneath? There is a frame piece directly under the pulley. Front is blocked by steering rack. I can get at it from the top and got the 3 bolts out now what? Those that have been using a 2x4 did you put it on the top of the pulley and hit it? What about a puller of some sort, does it take the entire hub off or just the pulley/balancer?
How the he11 did you get at this from underneath? There is a frame piece directly under the pulley. Front is blocked by steering rack. I can get at it from the top and got the 3 bolts out now what? Those that have been using a 2x4 did you put it on the top of the pulley and hit it? What about a puller of some sort, does it take the entire hub off or just the pulley/balancer?
From underneath and behind, you should be able to slide a 2x2 or something beside the oil pan to reach the back side of the balancer. A combination of tapping on it from behind and above worked for me.
TheAngelOfDeath, I just traced the outline of the rotor after I had the cap off.
They'll sort of "pop" on when you get it aligned right. Don't force it though, and don't buy an opti off of ebay unless you want to go back in there and do it all again.
Friend showed me a trick with the inverted torx bit. Remove one from the plate above your throttle body, and clamp it into a set of visegrips, don't crush the threads of course, and it works great.
I removed the crank pulley from the top---after removing the 3 bolts which attach it to the hub--I soaked the area of the hub and pulley with PB Blaster( as another post had stated) and let it sit overnight--in fact for good measure I sprayed it again right before I went to bed--next morning I put a large screwdriver/prybar between the balancer and the opti-spark and tapped with a brass hammer approx. 180 degrees away from the prybar alternating left side to right side with the prybar and hammer all the while sorta "walking " the balancer off the hub---the difficulty varies here depending on the amount of rust between hub and balancer---any penetrating oil MAY work I just prefer PB BLASTER 'cause I've had good luck with it---I didn't crack/break the cap on my opti while prying--- but it didn't matter anyway 'cause I was installing a new one ---Patience is the key here!!
Finally got it off !!!!! Ended up using 2 ball joint/tie rod splitters to wedge it loose. I don't think it was as much rust vs just a very tight tolerance fit. They probably put it on hot and it shrinks to fit?
Got all the plug wires except the ones that are on the drivers side where they disappear into the dark abis. Decided it was a good time to take a break before something got broke. Any tips to pull these wires thru?
Got all the plug wires except the ones that are on the drivers side where they disappear into the dark abis. Decided it was a good time to take a break before something got broke. Any tips to pull these wires thru?
I removed the Power Steering pump pulley and the belt tensioner which really opens up that area. The tensioner is easy, one bolt, the ps pulley requires a puller. I don't own one yet, they are like $28 at autozone, I borrowed one from a friend. I have borrowed it often enough that I really need to buy one. Anyway, even with those out of the way, I needed to loosen up the bolts holding the ps pump in place to thread the wires through.