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between my tax rebate and some money i have i have just over a grand to spend on my C4
I was wondering if i should do 4.10 gears, a cam, or LTs with highflow cats, on my 99% stock LT1
i would like to do the work myself but feel these are over my head. i thought headers would be pretty easy to do myself but my friend said they are hard.
current mods
92 LT1
K&n filter and cut lid
1.6 rr
magnaflow mufflers
You'll feel the 4.10s a lot more than any mod you can add. A cam is cheap and will work well with the rockers, but you need to get a nice set of heads to get the best of out it. You'll notice a difference in headers and cats, but working on headers is best done with a lift and you're better off gutting your existing cats instead of the $300+ for new ones.
Basically, the best bang for the buck is gears. If you're running stock, which for an LT1 I don't know offhand, but if it's over a .50 difference you will be able to notice right away.
between my tax rebate and some money i have i have just over a grand to spend on my C4
I was wondering if i should do 4.10 gears, a cam, or LTs with highflow cats, on my 99% stock LT1
i would like to do the work myself but feel these are over my head. i thought headers would be pretty easy to do myself but my friend said they are hard.
current mods
92 LT1
K&n filter and cut lid
1.6 rr
magnaflow mufflers
Roller rockers and long tubes would be a good plan. Especially if you're a little intimidated by the cam install. You can do that later. You'd need a tune with the cam anyway. If you go LT's make sure you get a set that tuck up good.
As far as doing the work yourself.
-4.10 would be tough unless you have the right tools (dial indicator and arbor press for starters) and experiance with gear alignment
-cam swaps on Lt1s are a little tricky since the frame cross member infront of the engine is in the way of the cam shaft, plus it complicates balancer and hub removal without the GM tool (hard to find and expensive)
-headers would be the easiest but be prepared to finagle some things around to make them fit
I would do a cam and a dyno tune.That would give you more hp than long tube headers.They would be a nice addition later.I am not sold on the 4.10 gears for an lt1.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by matt_jahn
between my tax rebate and some money i have i have just over a grand to spend on my C4
I was wondering if i should do 4.10 gears, a cam, or LTs with highflow cats, on my 99% stock LT1
i would like to do the work myself but feel these are over my head. i thought headers would be pretty easy to do myself but my friend said they are hard.
current mods
92 LT1
K&n filter and cut lid
1.6 rr
magnaflow mufflers
A cam will make the most difference. A good bet would be the LT4 Hotcam from GM parts direct or Summit Racing. If you can't install headers you can't install the cam, so find a good GM mechanic. Hotcam is about $215, leaving almost enough for labor.
BTW, the car will run faster but you will need a good chip tune to get the most from the cam.
4.10s are good with a 6 spd, but if you have an auto, it might be a little steep. 3.73s will keep your rpms around 2400 @70 mph.(auto)
A nitrous set-up can be an option with cash left over. (I saw one in the for sale section today)
I've been performance modding my LT1 equiped 95 for a while now and IMO the gear change provided the biggest performance change for the buck!
Pulling the damper does not require the KENT Moore tool. I've pulled my hub numerous times with a plain old puller. (so have other people that I know) I have a cut down 1/4" drive extension that I put in the center of the crank IOT allow a standard puller to work (hole in hub is too small for puller to work ) so cam swap is doable in car but I couldn't degree the cam in the car so I pull the engine for cam swaps.
Header install can be easily completed in a weekend in a home garage or car port.
Headers were not that impressive when the rest of the engine was stock, but it is a necessary supporting mod for Head/Cam install.
If I only had 1K for mods I'd do a gear swap, or save up for ported heads and custom cam.
I agree I have had all the bolt on mods done on my 93 and gears were by far the biggest NOticeable gain. I've never had to use a puller for my damper just leave the bolts a tad loose and fire the motor for a second or two and the vibration will shake it loose
If i were you I'd invest the money into a savings account or for when your car breaks down
id first like to say thanks for all the replays so fast. and i think im leaning towards gears, i kinda was earlier because i read a lot about them on here. and Pryderei, my car only has 25k on it so i shouldnt have many problems for a while. (knock on wood)
So gears would cost me how much for all the things i need, (and what all do i need exactly) plus labor?
id first like to say thanks for all the replays so fast. and i think im leaning towards gears, i kinda was earlier because i read a lot about them on here. and Pryderei, my car only has 25k on it so i shouldnt have many problems for a while. (knock on wood)
So gears would cost me how much for all the things i need, (and what all do i need exactly) plus labor?
I'm considering swapping gears to a 3.73s, and I've gotten quotes from $1100 all the way to $1800 for new bearings and u-joints. Depends what you need and what you want. If you find any needy parts, it would be the best time to do it before you run into a problem down the road.
1) Gears should be matched to the cam, and if the only mod will only
make the car feel a little faster, it won't be.
2) Cam + tuning will make more power impact
3) Exhaust to support cam will be even better.
Assuming your car is an auto I'd do things in this order:
1) Cam swap, $400 in parts (cam, springs, gaskets)
2) Tuning, $150-300
3) Headers $500
A 'pumkin swap' later to a 3.07 if you don't already have one. I wouldn't go more than 3.54 with the 700R4. just me.
Automatic or manual ? IF it's an auto then do the gears end o story.
Gears $400.00
Install kit $125.00
U-joints $240.00
Gear lube $ 50.00
Speedo gears $ 15.00
Set up labor $ ??? I wouldn't pay more than a couple hundred bucks
This is with you doing 95%of the work, pull the rear yourself. This is the best bang for the buck on an automatic LT1. I would run a 3.73
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by matt_jahn
id first like to say thanks for all the replays so fast. and i think im leaning towards gears, i kinda was earlier because i read a lot about them on here. and Pryderei, my car only has 25k on it so i shouldnt have many problems for a while. (knock on wood)
So gears would cost me how much for all the things i need, (and what all do i need exactly) plus labor?
Gears = 0 horsepower..... $ per HP = trillion to 1
You won't be able to install the gears yourself.
Gears = 0 horsepower..... $ per HP = trillion to 1
You won't be able to install the gears yourself.
Work on getting HP up first.
I would also start modding for hp first. A cam would be a good move. Also without sticky tires and experience launching gears could cause loss of traction and slow you down in the 1/4. Auto or manual? If auto do you have the 3.07 rear?
Last edited by rickneworleansla; May 5, 2008 at 04:51 PM.
Gears = 0 horsepower..... $ per HP = trillion to 1
You won't be able to install the gears yourself.
Work on getting HP up first.
Gears = ZERO additional horsepower however they let you take advantage of the horsepower you already have. My car went 12.98 with just a gear swap, a yank torque converter and tires and it went 12.50s with the same 300chp I started with.
Gears = ZERO additional horsepower however they let you take advantage of the horsepower you already have. My car went 12.98 with just a gear swap, a yank torque converter and tires and it went 12.50s with the same 300chp I started with.
What did it do to your MPH ?
I'm not putting a cage in my car. I will not see a 10 second time slip, ever. I'll run 11.50 every single pass. I do like higher MPH though.
My last car used to trap 120mph. I'd like to see the vette do 125.. I'd rather come out of the hole lazy and get a higher MPH than come out with the nose up and be told I can't race again, ever..
Let's be honest. You will not stop moving forward once once you make a decision. I started with a K&N filter and now I am on my third motor. The engine, as we all know, is basically an air pump. Incoming and outgoing must be addressed first. Yes, there are many "bang for the buck" mods that will yield power numbers but you must set a solid foundation now that will not hinder progress later. Long tubes, cold air and tune are first on the list. For $1000 you get most of these three or at least on very strong start. All the suggestions to you question are worthy but you might regret it later. My 2 cents anyway.