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For those of you that have not tackled the intake install on the L98, a search will offer several suggestions. One of those suggestions is to dimple the "china wall' with a center punch.
Well, I am not at the point of putting the intake on yet. But I did center punch the china wall. I have done this with other engines and it works very well. The point of this is to give the silicone or the RIGHT STUFF (better than silicone) something to grip to on the block. The china wall is the section of the block between the heads front and rear. In the past and today, they provide a rubber gasket for these areas, but they never seem to last and you are soon leaking oil front and/or rear. The better solution is to run a 3/8" bead of the RIGHT STUFF on the china wall in place of the rubber gaskets.
Here is a picture of the wall dimpled for your reference.
This picture also shows the roller lifters installed in the ZZ4 block with the "dog bone" installed keeping the lifters from twisting in the bore and the spring holding the bones in place.
Is the right stuff really better than silicone (granted that the surfaces are CLEAN)? I judge by how tough silicone is to remove, and I can't imagine any other stuff is better.
Oh btw... Nice shoes. Outta' church, and under the hood?
Is the right stuff really better than silicone (granted that the surfaces are CLEAN)?
I can't give a comparison but have used the black RTV with great success. I now use a double bead on the china walls with a little tail up onto the head's gaskets.
I know how tough silicone is. We used to use it to glue foam to cement molds (steel). I once tried to use a torch to burn it off. No luck. Just have to use a wire wheel or scrape it off with a razor blade.
Like the shoes.... I slipped them on to take the picture. Wife gives me hell when I track stuff into the house. When I work on the car, I usually wear my steel toe boots.
The ZZ4 build is progressing. I dropped the short block in this morning and started to put in the trans to block bolts and discovered that I had reversed the flexplate . Had to pull the engine part way out and correct the problem. It is back in. Get my heads back tomorrow.
The right stuff is used by most of the high end engine builders in my area. It costs slightly more than black RTV but can be a problem solver if you have issues with RTV. That dimple idea is pretty cool too, i have done similar with an 80 grit roloc after a good clean, the roughed up clean metal surface gives the goo a better surface to stick to.