LT1 Crank Balancer Removal Tips ??
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,991
Likes: 2
From: Hanger 18 Taxachusetts
LT1 Crank Balancer Removal Tips ??
OK the saga continues. I have read a lot about beating the crap out of the balancer to get it off the shaft but.....
Had to change the water pump now going for the opti. I got the 3 bolts out of the balancer now what? Some of what I read said to hit it from underneath but there is a large frame piece there. Can't get at it from the front because of the steering rack so the best approach seems to be from above.
Do you put a 2x4 on the top of the balancer and whack it a few times then spin it and repeat? Or is it more of trying to wedge it off?
Anyone lives near me and wants to visit you are welcome
(near UMass Lowell)
Had to change the water pump now going for the opti. I got the 3 bolts out of the balancer now what? Some of what I read said to hit it from underneath but there is a large frame piece there. Can't get at it from the front because of the steering rack so the best approach seems to be from above.
Do you put a 2x4 on the top of the balancer and whack it a few times then spin it and repeat? Or is it more of trying to wedge it off?
Anyone lives near me and wants to visit you are welcome
(near UMass Lowell)
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: Rindge NH
Not sure about the Y-body LT1's, but on my F-body LT1 I used a 3-jaw puller to get the balancer off and harmonic balancer puller (the kind that's shaped like a crow's foot for lack of a better term) with three bolts threaded through it to get the hub off. I think you can get them from Autzone on their tool loaner program.
I was cheap and didn't get the OEM style putter/installer. I left the hub bolt in the hub to give the puller something to bear against. Back the bolt out of the crank but leave it in there. When you finally get the hub off and look at it you'll understand why - the "bottom" of the hub bore is drilled just large enough for the bolt to pass through into the crank snout. If you don't leave the bolt in there, you'll be trying to pull the ears off the hub.
(edit - the position you reinstall the hub in isn't critical. Internally balanced engine. There will be a shadow mark on the crank snout where the keyway would have been cut. Line it up with the one on the hub you'll be close enough)
I was cheap and didn't get the OEM style putter/installer. I left the hub bolt in the hub to give the puller something to bear against. Back the bolt out of the crank but leave it in there. When you finally get the hub off and look at it you'll understand why - the "bottom" of the hub bore is drilled just large enough for the bolt to pass through into the crank snout. If you don't leave the bolt in there, you'll be trying to pull the ears off the hub.
(edit - the position you reinstall the hub in isn't critical. Internally balanced engine. There will be a shadow mark on the crank snout where the keyway would have been cut. Line it up with the one on the hub you'll be close enough)
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 37
Puller Only Dude
I wouldn't strike it at all
. I remove mine easily with a three (or was it four) lug puller. You just have to find a shorty that can fit in there in front of crossmember. I also remember that I removed two bolts from the engine mounts and jacked the engine up a few inches. There should be lots of information on the forum. . . including pictures of guys removing it. I changed the cam with the engine in the vehicle. . . so that might be a way to search here on the forum "ie LT1 cam swap/change etc"
Striking it will not remove it at all. That will just damage it. Bite the bit and get the right puller.
. I remove mine easily with a three (or was it four) lug puller. You just have to find a shorty that can fit in there in front of crossmember. I also remember that I removed two bolts from the engine mounts and jacked the engine up a few inches. There should be lots of information on the forum. . . including pictures of guys removing it. I changed the cam with the engine in the vehicle. . . so that might be a way to search here on the forum "ie LT1 cam swap/change etc"Striking it will not remove it at all. That will just damage it. Bite the bit and get the right puller.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Riverside County Southern California
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Yes a 2x4 would do if you do not have a puller. Tap, left-right-left-right..tap-tap-tap---Clunck! is out.
Ensure you mark everything!
If you buy a puller for it, it may come without the bolts for the balancer. Take one of the 5/8 bolts, go to NAPA and buy 3 of those for the puller. Thats what I did.
You will re-visit old vocabulary when is time to re-install it. If you loose patience, go for a walk. Do not get fustrated, the PS cooler is very sharp...I know
Ensure you mark everything!
If you buy a puller for it, it may come without the bolts for the balancer. Take one of the 5/8 bolts, go to NAPA and buy 3 of those for the puller. Thats what I did.
You will re-visit old vocabulary when is time to re-install it. If you loose patience, go for a walk. Do not get fustrated, the PS cooler is very sharp...I know
