lowering 93
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
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2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
lowering 93
I'm way into lowering my 93. There is a difference between the MAM instructions and the photos I see on the DIY posts.
All the DIY posts show the new lowering kit shims glued FLAT SIDE AGAINST THE SPRING ( triangle of wedge pointing up into the frame)(and reusing the flat aluminum shim).
On the MAM instruction sheet is says to mount the poly shims INTO THE FRAME, FLAT SIDE UP (triangle of wedge bearing onto the spring)(and remove the flat aluminum shim.
That is quite a difference in technique. If anyone can offer an opinion it would be appreciated. It is kind of late because it's already done but if I have to we can grind the shims out of the frame recess and turn things around. (I have another set of shims)
The mechanic that did the work read the instructions several times and compared that info to the DIY posts. He is of the opinion the DIY sites have miss read the MAM instructions. He offered some convincing logic!
Thanks in advance. No trash talk thanks just considered input.
All the DIY posts show the new lowering kit shims glued FLAT SIDE AGAINST THE SPRING ( triangle of wedge pointing up into the frame)(and reusing the flat aluminum shim).
On the MAM instruction sheet is says to mount the poly shims INTO THE FRAME, FLAT SIDE UP (triangle of wedge bearing onto the spring)(and remove the flat aluminum shim.
That is quite a difference in technique. If anyone can offer an opinion it would be appreciated. It is kind of late because it's already done but if I have to we can grind the shims out of the frame recess and turn things around. (I have another set of shims)
The mechanic that did the work read the instructions several times and compared that info to the DIY posts. He is of the opinion the DIY sites have miss read the MAM instructions. He offered some convincing logic!
Thanks in advance. No trash talk thanks just considered input.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
Everything I've read says to glue the flat side to the spring, as well as removing all the aluminum shims. That's what I did, and worked like a champ so far.
However, I would imagine that it should work either way. The same principle applies to both techniques. My only worry would be positioning it correctly on the frame. On the spring, it's easy to get them purchased perfectly; it's right where the old rubber things were!
However, I would imagine that it should work either way. The same principle applies to both techniques. My only worry would be positioning it correctly on the frame. On the spring, it's easy to get them purchased perfectly; it's right where the old rubber things were!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,913
Likes: 37
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Many have done the wedge to the spring. Not as many have done the frame. Both are fine. I wouldnt recommend the shim being put back in as it wont lower much at all, maybe 5/8inch. Be sure you measure the aluminum retainer prior to putting back in as you need to cut it just enough to barely touch the frame prior to tightening. I just completed the from last weekend on my 93.
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 671
Likes: 10
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
thanks for the help
Thanks guys that is what I figured, this way up / that way up. Actually where they locate on the frame is directly in alignment with the old spring pad. The mechanic left just just a skim of rubber on the spring for the apex of the new shim to bear on to reduce wear and increase bite.
The link you sent is the one that shows the aluminum shim being returned into service. As we discussed it we couldn't see the point of returning the shim. As you pointed out it pretty much nullifies the whole effort of removing the pads etc.
Thanks for the input. I'm breathing a little easier. I think the car goes in for alignment tonight.
The mechanic pointed out that by turning wedge down it significantly ( because of the tremendous spring pressure) changes the torquing moment on the spring and allows to car to sit lower.
The link you sent is the one that shows the aluminum shim being returned into service. As we discussed it we couldn't see the point of returning the shim. As you pointed out it pretty much nullifies the whole effort of removing the pads etc.
Thanks for the input. I'm breathing a little easier. I think the car goes in for alignment tonight.
The mechanic pointed out that by turning wedge down it significantly ( because of the tremendous spring pressure) changes the torquing moment on the spring and allows to car to sit lower.
