HELP!!

I have a 91 convert. It will not start. It is noise from the dash. It is making a clicking noise. I replaced a relay, was not the problem. The clicking noise goes away if the LCD fuse is removed?

Any ideas?

Thanks All

 

Hrmm. I wonder if your CCM ate it. Clicking is coming from the dash for sure, not the starter? The LCD fuse goes to the CCM, but in inoperative CCM wouldn't close the starting circuit so that doesn't really mean much.

WHen you turn the key, does the security light stay on? Does your check engine light flash twice?


-- Joe

 

No lights. Guages do not even move.

 

Hrmm.

Well me thinks you have a bigger problem. Your ECM should flash the check engine light twice, then it should be on solid. Your analog gauges should do something as they are wired direct. The CCM will op the LCD and some of the DIC indicators.

Only reason I'm sure on this, as I've been studying the '91 wiring schematics for the last week and a half for my dash swap into my '87.

I unfortunately think you need to start checking all your circuits and fuses, then start following the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM.
You didn't jump start the car did you?

-- Joe

 

Everything on the dash flickers. I thought it might have been a bad relay.

 

Measure the battery voltage. 12.0 volts and below, discharged, charge the battery up with a battery charger. 12.9 volts and above, fully charged and linear in between. Dash voltmeter not accurate when the engine is not running, use a test voltmeter. If batt not discharged, then remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery terminals and replace (neg last). Still not crank, then unplug the clutch safety sw (gear selector sw if auto) and jump the plug. Measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank. If 12+ volts and no cranking, then you have a defective starter solenoid. If no 12v, then pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column that go to a 2 pin plug and unplug. Insert ign key and measure the resistance across the wires from the column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If more than 4% off from pellet or over 13k ohms, you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to your pellet. You can defeat VATS temporarily by connecting a fixed resistor across the 2 pin connector in the wiring harness (goes to VATS module) the same value as your pellet. You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor (or combination of resistors to get within 4% of your pellet) from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ign. Now I'm not sure about 91's, but later C4's won't allow continuous resistance across the 2 pin socket, they require the resistor to disconnect after the engine is turned off, just like happens when you remove the key after turning the engine off.

 

Figured it out. I had a battery switch disconnect. It went bad. Took it off and the car started.

Thanks for the input