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tomorrow im swapping out the stock multec injectors in favor of Bosch III's, courtesy of Jon at the Fuel Injection Connection, and im looking for any pointers to make this go as painless as possible from our veterans on the forum. Also, Im curious what to use to clean the fuel rail and manifold o ring seats. Thanks guys, in advance.
tomorrow im swapping out the stock multec injectors in favor of Bosch III's, courtesy of Jon at the Fuel Injection Connection, and im looking for any pointers to make this go as painless as possible from our veterans on the forum. Also, Im curious what to use to clean the fuel rail and manifold o ring seats. Thanks guys, in advance.
I actually took my TPI assembly apart last night and it is not as horrible as I thought. My advice to you is to take your time and make sure you keep all the runner/plenum bolts arranged in order because some of them are longer than others. It took me about 2 hours to get it completely dis-assembled, but I was being very careful and taking my time. Amazingly I didn't even loose a bolt. For cleaing I have just been using Gunk carb cleaning and had worked extremely well.
be carefull with the o-rings putting back together. I have pinched and cut the o-ring during re assembly before. Now before I do them I have extra o-rings on hand before I start.
I actually took my TPI assembly apart last night and it is not as horrible as I thought. My advice to you is to take your time and make sure you keep all the runner/plenum bolts arranged in order because some of them are longer than others. It took me about 2 hours to get it completely dis-assembled, but I was being very careful and taking my time. Amazingly I didn't even loose a bolt. For cleaing I have just been using Gunk carb cleaning and had worked extremely well.
First, remove the fuse for the fuel pump, run the car to get the excess gas out of the lines, open the gas cap to release the pressure. If you can get the car up on jack stands and take the front wheels off, your back will thank you.
I bought a piece of Styrofoam insulation, as I removed each bolt; I placed it in the board and labeled each. I had baggies to place any small items in and used a sharpie to mark them. TB cleaner from Autozone cleaned the runners, plenum and TB very well. I changed out the thermostat, EGR and IAC valve as I was doing it because I did not want to go back in later. I cleaned and painted everything I could as I was going. Be careful and take your time, those old hoses and vacuum lines get brittle. Get a set of new gaskets for the plenum, $9.99 at Autozone (Felpro), use anti-seize on all bolts and make sure to torque to specs. A good set of torx wrenches is a must, universals swivel adaptors for the needed angles. Don't forget there are two inside bolts on the runners, back toward firewall on the drivers side, front on the passengers side. Get a magnetic wand for dropped bolts.
Have the hood open and a fire extinguisher handy when you start it back up.
It is not a bad job, just take your time! Good Luck!
would also suggest you clean the area around the injectors before you start. Carb cleaner and then compressed air. And watch out for those O-Rings.. should be replace anyway if you lose them...
I have a complete set of o-rings for $20 shipped.
that said,
I just took off the plenum, and disassembled the fuel rail from the tubes prior to removing it from the engine area, without pulling the runners. Then pulled the injectors out of the manifold first. Then removed each half of the fuel rails with the injectors still installed. You have to sort of use a ratchet extension to pry against when you use a screwdriver wrapped in masking tape to wedge the injectors out. After getting each half of the fuel rail out, I pulled each injector out of the rail after turning the injectors slightly to loosen the o-rings, then sliding the injector keepers 90 degrees. The masking tape glue doesn't like gasoline or oil, so you have to clean the places that the tape contacted with a little gas. You also have to open the gas cap, relieve the tank pressure, and get a small short pencil, break off the lead, and use the broken pencil pushed into the gas feed line to stop the fuel from running all over. Just twist it into the open line till the fuel stops running, and don't bump it.
The fuel rail is assembled with tork screws and small metal keepers. Just keep track of where they go, and use your phone camera to get pics of each stage of disassembly.
Reassembly was slightly difficult to moderate because I didn't remove the runners. Actually, my back muscles got a crick bending over that much, 'till I realized if I draped a towel over the tire, I could sit on the tire as a seat and keep my butt clean at the same time.
NOTE:
all of the screws and the rail pieces except the orings, injectors, and actual rails are ferrous material. You can use a magnet taped to a pencil or straw, or ratchet extension to retrieve any dropped items.
Chris
Last edited by coupeguy2001; May 9, 2008 at 06:55 PM.
THANKS A LOT! Im tackling the project this afternoon (and probably part of the evening) but Im confident it will go well. Im going to document each step with pictures and do a thorough cleaning. Thanks for the help! ! !