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Brakes - Proportioning valve

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Old May 9, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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Default Brakes - Proportioning valve

What is the difference between the Doug Rippie spring and the complete proportioning valve that is installed in the master brake cylinder? Or is the spring for the master cylinder and the valve goes someplace else?

I'm upgrading to C5 front rotors on my 88 vert and want to get a more balanced brake feel (stop the nose dive) for tracking the car!

Thanks for any advice!

John
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Old May 9, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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The spring is what controls the valve. It goes into the master cylinder in front of the valve.
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Old May 9, 2008 | 09:46 AM
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Thanks, so as I understand it I just need to change the spring to increase the pressure on the rear calipers and use the same valve?

John
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Old May 9, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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A complete proportioning valve sounds like an adjustable bias lever. You can change the bias for all sorts of different conditions, this would be the best if you have the money for it. I just have the bias spring in mine. Keep in mind if you want less nose dive, stronger suspension will also help.

The spring just replaces the stock spring in the stock M/C, it wasn't a long or tough project.
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Old May 9, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnyH
Thanks, so as I understand it I just need to change the spring to increase the pressure on the rear calipers and use the same valve?

John
The DRM bias spring replaces the stock bias spring in the propotioning valve which as you noted is part of the master cylinder, just as Aardwolf mentioned above.
Brian

Last edited by VanSpeed; May 9, 2008 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Should have read all of Aardwolf's post before I posted.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by VanSpeed
The DRM bias spring replaces the stock bias spring in the propotioning valve which as you noted is part of the master cylinder, just as Aardwolf mentioned above.
Brian
What if one removed the entire assembly (spring, the valve) and re-capped that appendage on the stock M/C, then used a lever/ prop valve (i have a wilwood with **** adj inline already, but full on due to my issues) - would the M/C work properly, sending full press to both circuits? Or would removal of that spring/valve assembly cause chaos due to design of the M/C?
If anyone knows...otherwise, i could do an idiot test in my driveway
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by TCurtner
What if one removed the entire assembly (spring, the valve) and re-capped that appendage on the stock M/C, then used a lever/ prop valve (i have a wilwood with **** adj inline already, but full on due to my issues) - would the M/C work properly, sending full press to both circuits? Or would removal of that spring/valve assembly cause chaos due to design of the M/C?
If anyone knows...otherwise, i could do an idiot test in my driveway
That's a good question! I installed the spring in my z51 brakes and it helped stop the nose diving and driving the fronts into antilock. The car stops fast and level and no tire sliding fronts any more with the antilock buzzing away.
I've wondered if the plumbing COULD be altered on the stock M/C like you were talking about. It seems reasonable.
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