Dana 36 pumpkin swap
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Freehold New Jersey
Dana 36 pumpkin swap
Guys, can swaping the pumkins out be done at home with relative ease? I'm swaping out what I believe is a 2:56 for a 3:54. Is it easier to drop the whole batwing? Thanks for your help.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 2
From: Doylestown PA
You will need to take the batwing out of the car.
It can be done at home in the garage, but it will be a PITA!
I've done it three times. the first time it took 6 hours, the second time it took 4 hours and the third time we got it down to 3 1/2 hours. The Vette was on a lift which helps out tremendously and I had help. The hardest part is reattaching the C-beam at the correct clearance.
The first time I changed from a 2:59 pumpkin to a 3:07 pumpkin.
The second time was two weeks later as the 3:07 locked up giving me possi traction 100% of the time. So I bought another 3:07 pumpkin and did a 3:07 swap to a working 3:07
The third time was just a month ago. Had to replace the clutches which required dropping the rear AGAIN!
I should be good for at least a year now.
BUT, When you make the swap you will love it!!!!
It can be done at home in the garage, but it will be a PITA!
I've done it three times. the first time it took 6 hours, the second time it took 4 hours and the third time we got it down to 3 1/2 hours. The Vette was on a lift which helps out tremendously and I had help. The hardest part is reattaching the C-beam at the correct clearance.
The first time I changed from a 2:59 pumpkin to a 3:07 pumpkin.
The second time was two weeks later as the 3:07 locked up giving me possi traction 100% of the time. So I bought another 3:07 pumpkin and did a 3:07 swap to a working 3:07
The third time was just a month ago. Had to replace the clutches which required dropping the rear AGAIN!
I should be good for at least a year now.
BUT, When you make the swap you will love it!!!!
Last edited by Doug 87L98; May 9, 2008 at 02:37 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
I did it at home and didn't think that it was so bad (88). The car was on jack stands. I don't know how long it took but then I was in no hurry. I think that you will find it to be straightforward. Don't forget to install a drainplug while everything is easy to access and you can avoid problems like shavings and poor choice of location.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 1,352
I did it at home in the garage on jack stands, not a big deal at all. The bat wing will need to come out. Pull the rear end with the batwing attached. I will find the write up and link it in a minute. The exhaust is a p.i.t.a. and the C-beam. Here is what I used for reference when doing mine, this link is for swapping to the bigger better Dana 44 however the complete removal procedure for the Dana 36 is here. Simply reverse it to reinstall. https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=218&TopicID=2
Last edited by JD'S WHITE 93; May 9, 2008 at 04:46 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 1,352
Now would be the time to get some P.B. blaster on the exhaust bolts esp. on the drivers side converter. You might want to consider doing U-joints while you have it apart too. I changed all the U-joints while I had it apart. If you were close by I
would help
would help
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
From: Syracuse Utah
Mine was not as hard as I thought it would be. Exhaust was the hardest, snapped two bolts. But the c-beam was off in 5 seconds. I disconneted the e-brake cable and let it hang down, undid the rear end (still attached to c-beam and with batwing), dropped it 4 or 5 inches so I could easily get to the c-beam nuts which came off with no problem, then a small crowbar on the c-beam and it slipped right off, rear end pulled out the back.
Instalation was also easier because of being able to move the c-beam around still attached to the trans. I used oversized washers on the c-beam bolts to increase the clamping area like beam plates. Job took 4 hours first time.
Instalation was also easier because of being able to move the c-beam around still attached to the trans. I used oversized washers on the c-beam bolts to increase the clamping area like beam plates. Job took 4 hours first time.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Freehold New Jersey
Just completed it from start to finish in 4hrs. It was originally a 2.73 now it has the 3:55. What are you guys using to correct the speedo? I have the gears for the trans but it looks to be a pain in the *** to get to? How about the electric conversions that tap into the speedo harness? Any good? Thanks for all your help....Chet. Hey, how do you post pictures?
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 3
From: Citrus Heights California
Just completed it from start to finish in 4hrs. It was originally a 2.73 now it has the 3:55. What are you guys using to correct the speedo? I have the gears for the trans but it looks to be a pain in the *** to get to? How about the electric conversions that tap into the speedo harness? Any good? Thanks for all your help....Chet. Hey, how do you post pictures?
I called and talked to a guy named Don at PATC. He sent me a new 42 tooth driven gear, a new speed sensor and a new pigtail. Everything was $90.00. It's simple to change. I only had to change one gear and the VSS. Here's their website. The box is probably better if you have to change everything.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm
Last edited by Kool88vette; May 12, 2008 at 11:04 PM.
