I read a post awhile back where someone referred to the cleaning of lifters prior to installation was a must, or it could create a failure if not preformed. If I remember correctly, it was stated that you should use some type of alcohol for this. I've looked and searched and can't find anything like that anywhere and with my new set of lifters there was no procedure for this action. How should I go about cleaning these, what should I clean them with and should it be any different if the components are used vice new? Lastly, which cleaning method is best: over night soak, quick bath or wipe down? Thanks for input in advance.

Noland

 

"some" new parts have an anti corrosion coating on them that resembles pancake syrup. Parts with this coating must be cleaned prior to install. Putting them in a clean container of mineral spirits should remove the coating, and blow them dry w/compressed air. Then let them sit in your favorite oil for a few hours or overnight and then install.

 

Hello,
Other than roller lifters(I mean flat-tap lifters here), I hate to install new lifters on a used cam. If you are doing this, I would say to do the following.
First, like stated above, clean them in mineral spirits to get any funky, 'cosmoline' looking stuff off them. Secondly, I would soak them at least overnight(or a day or two in oil). Next, right when you are ready to 'put them in their hole', take a rag with a mild solvent and wipe the flat end off and smear a thick layer of Comp Cams assembly lube on the flat and install.
You also need to add a bottle or two of STP oil treatment to the engine oil(fresh oil and filter). The STP has a lot of Zinc that they took out of most oil because of bad 'heavy-metals'(like lead, zinc etc.). It can still be in additives, though.
Pre-oil the engine with a primer(not spinning the engine over) just like a new/rebuilt engine and have everything set, pre-primed and ready to crank right now. Rev the motor between 1500 and 3000 RPM for about 20-30 minutes, just like you are breaking-in a new cam.
Then shut it off and let it all cool.
Change the oil and filter and then you can drive the car gently for a hundred or so miles and change oil and filter again.
I like to leave the rockers a 'tad' loose to keep all the spring pressure off those 'new' mating surfaces of the cam and lifters. I would adjust them up right after the 'hundred mile oil change'.
This is My opinion, from My experience. I hope this helps. There are short-cuts but if you wipe-out a lifter or lobe, you may ruin your motor!

Take Care and Good Luck, -John

 

Thanks for the input, I'm not sure where you got the idea that I was using a used cam and or lifters from but I do understand what your saying. The cam is new, the lifters and pushrods are new, but I am reusing a set of Roller Rockers. The Roller Rockers NEED to be cleaned, and as I stated before, I read that you should clean brand new lifters before using them. These are hydro-rollers just to clear that aspect up as well. Thanks again and I have some direction mineral sprits, air and an over night soak in oil!

R/Noland

 

BlackHarleyMan,
I guess I got confused when you asked if there was any difference between new and used parts.
A lot of folks are putting either New or 'out-of-order' lifters on used camshafts and don't know what they are getting into.
You have an a great combination and the only thing I would add is this: On the rockers I would put a little-dab of the assembly-lube on the ends of the pushrods. This will be a little extra lube for the lifter-end and rocker-end(that has already 'mated' a little bit, to a previous part).
You are completely on the right track to a good valve-train change. The oil-change interval isn't as tight with a roller-cam. After the original is changed after the first 30 minutes or so, you won't need to change the oil for 250-500 miles. It surely won't hurt to change it sooner, but not as important as with a flat tap cam.

Take Care and Good Luck, -John