Replacing 87 Bose Speakers?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 610
Likes: 2
Replacing 87 Bose Speakers?
The front speakers are shot and the driver side door panel makes a whizzing noise. What size speakers will fit in the front area and what brand do you recommend. This is a one and done so I want good quality speakers. Do you think this will fix my whizzing sound in the driver side door panel? Any help will be appreciated.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 124
From: Reno/Sparks Nevada
I wonder if he read it. I'm sure we can help with a plan but until an understanding of how the system works it will be difficult to move forward. Besides, the audio section has some pretty good alternatives posted there.
art
art
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 124
From: Reno/Sparks Nevada
Next would be to decide if you're keeping you're existing Bose radio. If you do you'll need to buy replacement Bose speakers. Regular speakers won't work with the Bose system.
If you replace the head unit or radio then you'll need to use an adapter to convert the existing radio connector so it will wire to the new radio.
New speaker wires need to be run to all four speaker locations from the radio to the speakers if you're not running an amp.
If you want a amp you'll need and additional fused power lead and ground, coax cable run from the radio to ithe amp and wires run from the amp to the speakers. Plus you'll need to find a place to install it either behind the seat or on the rear bulkhead mounted on a piece of wood that's carefully mounted to the bulkhead. You don't want to screw into the rear bulkhead because the gas tank is there. There are other ways to mount it. Until you decide if you want an amp there, there is no need to detail it now.
You can remove the existing bose speakers from the rear locations and install 6X9 3-way speakers or some other speakers like small sub-woofers if you like a lot of bass. Some guys have installed speakers in the compartments behind the seats. Some guys like larger sub-woofers there. I just used 6x9 3-ways in the rear stock locations.
The door speakers are housed in plastic housings. I've read where some guys have re-used the housing with small speakers. The housing uses a 3-hole mounted speaker and most speakers use four holes to mount the speaker. Ther are adapters that can adapt the mounting flange to a four-hole speaker but they are small, like 4" speakers. You won't use the amp that's mounted in the housing so you can either remove it, which requires removing the housing or abandon it in the housing which doesn't require removing the housing.
You can also remove the entire plastic speaker housing and mount a 6" round speaker in the door. Using a piece of 3/4" wood you can make a plate that mounts to the door exactly like the plastic housing did. Router out a recess in the wood plate for the speaker to sit in. Mount it to the door with the stock type faster to the door. Just make sure the speaker is not too thick since it will hit the window regulator. Careful measurement is needed here. This allows you to re-mount your stock speaker cover to the door panel by screwing the screws into the wood through the stock holes in the door panel.
These are a few things to think about or plan out before going ahead with your speaker replacement. It's not as simple as replacing speakers unless you plan to stay with the Bose system entirely. The speakers are compatible with the radio only. If your speakers were good you could probably buy the Bose adapters that let you use the speakers with an aftemarket radio. Some say they work, others say they don't work well. But I think that your plan was only to replace your speakers. Hope this helps. I'm sure someone else will chime in and add some comments. My reply may not agree with others, but it's covers some of the details about my radio replacement.
Art
If you replace the head unit or radio then you'll need to use an adapter to convert the existing radio connector so it will wire to the new radio.
New speaker wires need to be run to all four speaker locations from the radio to the speakers if you're not running an amp.
If you want a amp you'll need and additional fused power lead and ground, coax cable run from the radio to ithe amp and wires run from the amp to the speakers. Plus you'll need to find a place to install it either behind the seat or on the rear bulkhead mounted on a piece of wood that's carefully mounted to the bulkhead. You don't want to screw into the rear bulkhead because the gas tank is there. There are other ways to mount it. Until you decide if you want an amp there, there is no need to detail it now.
You can remove the existing bose speakers from the rear locations and install 6X9 3-way speakers or some other speakers like small sub-woofers if you like a lot of bass. Some guys have installed speakers in the compartments behind the seats. Some guys like larger sub-woofers there. I just used 6x9 3-ways in the rear stock locations.
The door speakers are housed in plastic housings. I've read where some guys have re-used the housing with small speakers. The housing uses a 3-hole mounted speaker and most speakers use four holes to mount the speaker. Ther are adapters that can adapt the mounting flange to a four-hole speaker but they are small, like 4" speakers. You won't use the amp that's mounted in the housing so you can either remove it, which requires removing the housing or abandon it in the housing which doesn't require removing the housing.
You can also remove the entire plastic speaker housing and mount a 6" round speaker in the door. Using a piece of 3/4" wood you can make a plate that mounts to the door exactly like the plastic housing did. Router out a recess in the wood plate for the speaker to sit in. Mount it to the door with the stock type faster to the door. Just make sure the speaker is not too thick since it will hit the window regulator. Careful measurement is needed here. This allows you to re-mount your stock speaker cover to the door panel by screwing the screws into the wood through the stock holes in the door panel.
These are a few things to think about or plan out before going ahead with your speaker replacement. It's not as simple as replacing speakers unless you plan to stay with the Bose system entirely. The speakers are compatible with the radio only. If your speakers were good you could probably buy the Bose adapters that let you use the speakers with an aftemarket radio. Some say they work, others say they don't work well. But I think that your plan was only to replace your speakers. Hope this helps. I'm sure someone else will chime in and add some comments. My reply may not agree with others, but it's covers some of the details about my radio replacement.
Art
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 610
Likes: 2
Ok, Mr.Renoman, I want to keep my Bose radio because I love the factory look and it is in such great shape. But want to replace the door panel and rear speakers. One of my questions is, can I get an upgraded bose speakers for the door panels and back of the car. And according to how I read your posts I can't use anything but bose. Why is that, is it because of the AMP in the speakers. Can I substitute these speakers for anything else. Like Infinity Kappas. I was at Best buy down in Denver this past weekend checking them out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 124
From: Reno/Sparks Nevada
You'll need to isolate if the trouble is in the radio, amp, speaker, or housing. I don't know if you have a good speaker you can swap between sides. You may even be able to swap the speaker from the rear temporarily in order to isolate the problem. I'm pretty sure you can access them without removing the entire housing from the door. Remove the grills and take a look at the speakers, maybe you can hear or see the problem.
Art
Art
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Last summer I replaced the back amps in my 1989, $185 total. Took 2 hours total with solidering, taking the enclosures out and apart and reinstalling. This spring did the fronts, bought the amps off ebay from theparts lady, $168. Took much longer, about 8 hours since its a PIA getting the enclosures out of the door. Got rid of the high pitch whistle that existed whenever the bose was on, even with no volume.
For $353 system works great, added a skip proof portable CD playing thru the cassette for another $20. Have seen new enclosures, new speakers/amps going for $200 each. When a speaker fails I can replace it very easily for $60.
Didn't see the need to spend $1,000+ on a whole new system
For $353 system works great, added a skip proof portable CD playing thru the cassette for another $20. Have seen new enclosures, new speakers/amps going for $200 each. When a speaker fails I can replace it very easily for $60.
Didn't see the need to spend $1,000+ on a whole new system
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 610
Likes: 2
Last summer I replaced the back amps in my 1989, $185 total. Took 2 hours total with solidering, taking the enclosures out and apart and reinstalling. This spring did the fronts, bought the amps off ebay from theparts lady, $168. Took much longer, about 8 hours since its a PIA getting the enclosures out of the door. Got rid of the high pitch whistle that existed whenever the bose was on, even with no volume.
For $353 system works great, added a skip proof portable CD playing thru the cassette for another $20. Have seen new enclosures, new speakers/amps going for $200 each. When a speaker fails I can replace it very easily for $60.
Didn't see the need to spend $1,000+ on a whole new system
For $353 system works great, added a skip proof portable CD playing thru the cassette for another $20. Have seen new enclosures, new speakers/amps going for $200 each. When a speaker fails I can replace it very easily for $60.
Didn't see the need to spend $1,000+ on a whole new system
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
I used a 1.5 DIN Alpine head unit, Alpine 4" in the dorrs, and Alpine 6x9's in the back. The sound is alot more crisp and clean than it was with the Bose. Too bad I can't hear it b/c of the exhaust. For under $450.
Last edited by UnderPar; May 21, 2008 at 07:18 PM. Reason: Typo
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I have an 89 with bose and the PO put in an Alpine cd head unit. What size speaker is in the door? I think the PO replaced the bose with a speaker that attaches with 3 mounts. You don't see that much, and they need replaced.
And what type of speakers would I need if I got one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
And what type of speakers would I need if I got one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
Last edited by samsonb; Nov 6, 2008 at 04:12 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Acworth Georgia
Now for the speakers. You can keep the factory housing in the door and bypass the speaker amp. I used the 4" Infinity. Take out the old speaker, and cut 4-5" of the wires that led into the speaker (you will need this later). Reach you hand into the opening toward the front of the car. You will feel a wire bundle. Pull it back where you can see it. Cut that bundle and connect the two specifically colored (different color for each speaker) wires with the speaker wire you clipped earlier.
then just plug and play. The Infinity 4" bolted into the door housing and sound great.
This is harder to describe than it actually is.....Good Luck
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
OK, I just went through this too. I have an '89 coupe with the Bose. I pu in the 1.5 DIN from Pioneer and Infinity speakers. I bought the hardware from Crutchfields and it came with a harness for the head unit. It went in and really looks great. Perfect fit.
Now for the speakers. You can keep the factory housing in the door and bypass the speaker amp. I used the 4" Infinity. Take out the old speaker, and cut 4-5" of the wires that led into the speaker (you will need this later). Reach you hand into the opening toward the front of the car. You will feel a wire bundle. Pull it back where you can see it. Cut that bundle and connect the two specifically colored (different color for each speaker) wires with the speaker wire you clipped earlier.
then just plug and play. The Infinity 4" bolted into the door housing and sound great.
This is harder to describe than it actually is.....Good Luck
Now for the speakers. You can keep the factory housing in the door and bypass the speaker amp. I used the 4" Infinity. Take out the old speaker, and cut 4-5" of the wires that led into the speaker (you will need this later). Reach you hand into the opening toward the front of the car. You will feel a wire bundle. Pull it back where you can see it. Cut that bundle and connect the two specifically colored (different color for each speaker) wires with the speaker wire you clipped earlier.
then just plug and play. The Infinity 4" bolted into the door housing and sound great.
This is harder to describe than it actually is.....Good Luck
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 30
From: Los Angeles CA
i'm doing it now,
remove door panel gently, still broke some brittle stuff,
remove screws holding aluminum chasis to to door opening
pop power doorlock actuator linkage to the aluminum chasis/panel, look to see how it is attached first to reverse it later.
finese the chasis downward in the door to clear the top edge
finese the top edge forward towards you and out
leave bottom edge in the door
remove 4 holding screws of the speaker incasement(box)
this box is held further in place with a semisoft chaulking, carefully pry, or to initiate by pushing inwards, you can get it loose, but do not force
with the box loose, reach in the back and disconect the wire connector,
grab the connector and position the box behind the aluminum chasis closer to the front of the car
pull the box out thru the top of the aluminum chasis
remove speaker from box, if you want to remove the bose amp, open the box
now you can place a 2nd order passive crossover in there and solder leads for a tweeter and the mid 4 "
if the bose is shot replace with bose or other 4 "
seal box, and position tweeter(small) to optimize direction.
remember to run a long and thick speaker wire out of the box thru the rubber door elbow either to you head unit, (not bose ) or even longer to you amp
the amp should be adjusted to not allow low frequencies to reach the 4" mid driver, this is call high pass 80hz of higher is fine most amps will have it adjustable some fixed, do your homeworks
leave the lows for the rears, i bought full range 6x9's but the amp will sequester the highds away from those speakers and the highs would have a chance to reproduce
do this for both doors
while you are in there clean, lube and adjust bumbers, tracks, links
change inner and outer weather strips, expoxy any broken parts, then wrap it all up with dynamat of equveilent
now you have created the ultimate speaker box
good luck and have fun with your vette!
remove door panel gently, still broke some brittle stuff,
remove screws holding aluminum chasis to to door opening
pop power doorlock actuator linkage to the aluminum chasis/panel, look to see how it is attached first to reverse it later.
finese the chasis downward in the door to clear the top edge
finese the top edge forward towards you and out
leave bottom edge in the door
remove 4 holding screws of the speaker incasement(box)
this box is held further in place with a semisoft chaulking, carefully pry, or to initiate by pushing inwards, you can get it loose, but do not force
with the box loose, reach in the back and disconect the wire connector,
grab the connector and position the box behind the aluminum chasis closer to the front of the car
pull the box out thru the top of the aluminum chasis
remove speaker from box, if you want to remove the bose amp, open the box
now you can place a 2nd order passive crossover in there and solder leads for a tweeter and the mid 4 "
if the bose is shot replace with bose or other 4 "
seal box, and position tweeter(small) to optimize direction.
remember to run a long and thick speaker wire out of the box thru the rubber door elbow either to you head unit, (not bose ) or even longer to you amp
the amp should be adjusted to not allow low frequencies to reach the 4" mid driver, this is call high pass 80hz of higher is fine most amps will have it adjustable some fixed, do your homeworks
leave the lows for the rears, i bought full range 6x9's but the amp will sequester the highds away from those speakers and the highs would have a chance to reproduce
do this for both doors
while you are in there clean, lube and adjust bumbers, tracks, links
change inner and outer weather strips, expoxy any broken parts, then wrap it all up with dynamat of equveilent
now you have created the ultimate speaker box
good luck and have fun with your vette!
Last edited by slickfx3; Nov 6, 2008 at 07:38 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
i'm doing it now,
remove door panel gently, still broke some brittle stuff,
remove screws holding aluminum chasis to to door opening
pop power doorlock actuator linkage to the aluminum chasis/panel, look to see how it is attached first to reverse it later.
finese the chasis downward in the door to clear the top edge
finese the top edge forward towards you and out
leave bottom edge in the door
remove 4 holding screws of the speaker incasement(box)
this box is held further in place with a semisoft chaulking, carefully pry, or to initiate by pushing inwards, you can get it loose, but do not force
with the box loose, reach in the back and disconect the wire connector,
grab the connector and position the box behind the aluminum chasis closer to the front of the car
pull the box out thru the top of the aluminum chasis
remove speaker from box, if you want to remove the bose amp, open the box
now you can place a 2nd order passive crossover in there and solder leads for a tweeter and the mid 4 "
if the bose is shot replace with bose or other 4 "
seal box, and position tweeter(small) to optimize direction.
remember to run a long and thick speaker wire out of the box thru the rubber door elbow either to you head unit, (not bose ) or even longer to you amp
the amp should be adjusted to not allow low frequencies to reach the 4" mid driver, this is call high pass 80hz of higher is fine most amps will have it adjustable some fixed, do your homeworks
leave the lows for the rears, i bought full range 6x9's but the amp will sequester the highds away from those speakers and the highs would have a chance to reproduce
do this for both doors
while you are in there clean, lube and adjust bumbers, tracks, links
change inner and outer weather strips, expoxy any broken parts, then wrap it all up with dynamat of equveilent
now you have created the ultimate speaker box
good luck and have fun with your vette!
remove door panel gently, still broke some brittle stuff,
remove screws holding aluminum chasis to to door opening
pop power doorlock actuator linkage to the aluminum chasis/panel, look to see how it is attached first to reverse it later.
finese the chasis downward in the door to clear the top edge
finese the top edge forward towards you and out
leave bottom edge in the door
remove 4 holding screws of the speaker incasement(box)
this box is held further in place with a semisoft chaulking, carefully pry, or to initiate by pushing inwards, you can get it loose, but do not force
with the box loose, reach in the back and disconect the wire connector,
grab the connector and position the box behind the aluminum chasis closer to the front of the car
pull the box out thru the top of the aluminum chasis
remove speaker from box, if you want to remove the bose amp, open the box
now you can place a 2nd order passive crossover in there and solder leads for a tweeter and the mid 4 "
if the bose is shot replace with bose or other 4 "
seal box, and position tweeter(small) to optimize direction.
remember to run a long and thick speaker wire out of the box thru the rubber door elbow either to you head unit, (not bose ) or even longer to you amp
the amp should be adjusted to not allow low frequencies to reach the 4" mid driver, this is call high pass 80hz of higher is fine most amps will have it adjustable some fixed, do your homeworks
leave the lows for the rears, i bought full range 6x9's but the amp will sequester the highds away from those speakers and the highs would have a chance to reproduce
do this for both doors
while you are in there clean, lube and adjust bumbers, tracks, links
change inner and outer weather strips, expoxy any broken parts, then wrap it all up with dynamat of equveilent
now you have created the ultimate speaker box
good luck and have fun with your vette!
Oh, and while we are talking about the inner metal door panel. Is the inner black door handle easy to remove? It looks like it is held in place by rivets. My driver handle has alot of the paint wore off, and I had been thinking of taking it off and painting it while I have everything apart.
And just to add to what you said:
http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereor...etteFspk89.htm
