When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also, is it worth it to do the labor myself or just let the shop do it?
Conversely, it is definitely not worth it to have a shop do the labor. If you're the type to consider DIY at all, this job is about as easy as it gets. I'd rather do a front brake job than change the oil, personally.
You could get new NAPA rotors with the saved money. Most posters around here seem to shy away from having them turned anyway.
Conversely, it is definitely not worth it to have a shop do the labor. If you're the type to consider DIY at all, this job is about as easy as it gets. I'd rather do a front brake job than change the oil, personally.
You could get new NAPA rotors with the saved money. Most posters around here seem to shy away from having them turned anyway.
One of the easiest jobs to do on a C-4. I just changed out my front and rear pads with Hack HPS pads. The entire job took about 2 hours doing 1 wheel at a time. I didn't have to turn the rotors as the original pads were worn less than 1/3 of their original thickness. I just wanted better stopping power and the Hawk pads delivered. Also don't turn your rotors, not worth the trouble, or loss of thickness. New rotors are cheep insurance.
do it yourself and you save enough money to buy better parts and know the job is done right. not to mention the personal satisfaction. check out c4cruiser for an old write-up with torque values and all. i have some pics of my finished job if needed. only did the front pads and rotors and changed to authentic speedbleeders all around. went with hawk hps pads (awesome cold bite and NO squealing) and paid $80 for napa front rotors.
i paid over $600 to a shop for rear rotors turned, new front wagner rotors, and new front and rear wagner thermoquiet pads. they didnt even bleed the brakes! DIY and save the money. there's plenty of info on the forum and even the cheap haynes manual shows you how to do it correctly.
the only real tools you will need are jackstands, jack, breaker bar or large 1/2 ratchet, torque wrench capable of over 100 ft-lbs, large sockets, wire brush, and turkey baster if you want to bleed the brakes. i cleaned everything with non-chlorinated brake-kleen (rotors too bc of oils on hands) and the end result was awesome!
Thanks for the help everyone! I decided to just do the work myself afterall. I ordered BAER cross drilled and slotted rotors and the red EBC pads for it. Cost a little more but i might as well do it while im into it.
Ill upgrade the rears when they are due. I dont want to spend too much right now on this but i also dont want to kick myself later for just going with new stock ones.