Gasket replacement + a few pics...
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Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Good call on the V/C bolt gaskets. I didn't see anything durin' breakdown, and kinda' wondered about that. I haven't opened the gasket boxes yet.
I broke down on doin' the TB myself. The carbon on the bores was incredible - I don't see how this thing even ran. And fine at that.
All the carbon came out great - includin' that IAC bore. Hardest part cleanin' the TB was the coolant encrustation on the hose nipples. The rubber TB diaphragm was still supple - scrubbed with armor all and a toothbrush. I'll soak it later with the injector O-rings in Trans-X.
All those stains ain't goin' anywhere tho'.
Oh well...
And don't forget the mosquito marinade (yellow circle).
I broke down on doin' the TB myself. The carbon on the bores was incredible - I don't see how this thing even ran. And fine at that.
All the carbon came out great - includin' that IAC bore. Hardest part cleanin' the TB was the coolant encrustation on the hose nipples. The rubber TB diaphragm was still supple - scrubbed with armor all and a toothbrush. I'll soak it later with the injector O-rings in Trans-X.
All those stains ain't goin' anywhere tho'.
Oh well...And don't forget the mosquito marinade (yellow circle).
Last edited by schrade; May 30, 2008 at 12:39 AM.
Safety Car
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From: Apple Valley MN
Those little inserts where the holes are for the valve cover bolts should just press out - those are the donuts that should be included in the gasket set. Also be careful to torque the valve covers properly - mine were leaking pretty good, and I think it's because they were over-tightened when they did the rocker arm recall.
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Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Those little inserts where the holes are for the valve cover bolts should just press out - those are the donuts that should be included in the gasket set. Also be careful to torque the valve covers properly - mine were leaking pretty good, and I think it's because they were over-tightened when they did the rocker arm recall.
Unfortunately, I did not find the rubber TB diaphragm (mine is still plenty supple anyway), and I did not find the TB coolant body gasket. Off to the sto'...
ed!!! $20 for the TB-coolant passage gasket.
AND a 3 day wait.
Damn. I can buy a whiff of gas for $20. I ordered, then cancelled. Hello RTV. Little grease film on the gasket/diaphragm, little on the bolts...
Last edited by schrade; May 26, 2008 at 01:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
TB almost done...
...so I took my first shortcut usin' RTV instead of a gasket. Clear too. Shoulda' used colored to make sure of a good thin layer, but it felt good goin' on.
Coffee's kickin' in on the second pic.
I still need feedback on the TPS placement there...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1565623135
Coffee's kickin' in on the second pic.
I still need feedback on the TPS placement there...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1565623135
Last edited by schrade; May 26, 2008 at 02:27 PM.
Instructor
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I noticed Autozone and Advance do not have the full TB gasket kit in their computers. I saw GP Sorenson part # here somewhere and both places said they may be able to order if I take it to them. Theres smaller stores around too but their hours suck.... might try some of them.
Or just go the RTV route like you did...
I happen to have 2 basic TB to Intake gaskets now.
Or just go the RTV route like you did...
I happen to have 2 basic TB to Intake gaskets now.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Hey there ghost...
How does the aluminum polish clean off? I got this TB cleaned (except for the stained aluminum), and it's bagged now waitin' to hook back up. I'm not wantin' to get anything into the passages now.................
How does the aluminum polish clean off? I got this TB cleaned (except for the stained aluminum), and it's bagged now waitin' to hook back up. I'm not wantin' to get anything into the passages now.................
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Thread chasin' in the intake...
Spray some thin lube in to the bottom of the hole, then run the bolt all the way in twice. Then drop the bolt into the parts cleaner, make sure the hole is horizontal, and blow it again with the light lube. It gets the grit out. Then blow off the bolt, hit it with light oil, and put the bolt back til you're ready for assembly.
There's NOTHIN' like a bolt turnin' freely in the hole with no grit (kinda' like lovin'
).
Sure is a pisser when the bolt won't 'catch' with the ratchet on re-assembly - NOT!!!
The fuel rail, and injector O-rings are left, the intake still has to go out for a dip, and yikes - the worst part... shop-vac-in' the intake ports and the lifter valley where the seaweed and kudzu fell in.
ed.: PIC 3... Does the EGR gasket have metallic heat paste, or somethin' like that, between it and the intake? Ya' think thread anti-seize #13 with copper will work as well?
Spray some thin lube in to the bottom of the hole, then run the bolt all the way in twice. Then drop the bolt into the parts cleaner, make sure the hole is horizontal, and blow it again with the light lube. It gets the grit out. Then blow off the bolt, hit it with light oil, and put the bolt back til you're ready for assembly.
There's NOTHIN' like a bolt turnin' freely in the hole with no grit (kinda' like lovin'
). Sure is a pisser when the bolt won't 'catch' with the ratchet on re-assembly - NOT!!!
The fuel rail, and injector O-rings are left, the intake still has to go out for a dip, and yikes - the worst part... shop-vac-in' the intake ports and the lifter valley where the seaweed and kudzu fell in.
ed.: PIC 3... Does the EGR gasket have metallic heat paste, or somethin' like that, between it and the intake? Ya' think thread anti-seize #13 with copper will work as well?
Last edited by schrade; May 26, 2008 at 05:41 PM.
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Instructor
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Wipe and buff a little with a terry cloth, or good paper towels like Viva. You should be able to keep it out of the passages, but a little throttle body cleaner I guess could clean up residue if it bothers you. I polished the inside of my TB a little too and figured I'd hit it with some TB cleaner on a rag just to be safe. Not sure if it makes a difference?
Mine still has some little spots but OMG it looks SOOO much better and shiny. I tried putting a little brake cleaner on one spot, a hack I read about somewhere, but didn't make a diff. Short of using something more abrasive and time consuming this is as good as it will get
and my fuel rail looks god-lke, not sure I want to put the covers on LOL
seriously, get some Mothers polish!
Mine still has some little spots but OMG it looks SOOO much better and shiny. I tried putting a little brake cleaner on one spot, a hack I read about somewhere, but didn't make a diff. Short of using something more abrasive and time consuming this is as good as it will get
and my fuel rail looks god-lke, not sure I want to put the covers on LOL
seriously, get some Mothers polish!
Instructor
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Spray some thin lube in to the bottom of the hole, then run the bolt all the way in twice. Then drop the bolt into the parts cleaner, make sure the hole is horizontal, and blow it again with the light lube. It gets the grit out. Then blow off the bolt, hit it with light oil, and put the bolt back til you're ready for assembly.
What do you use for the "thin lube" and "light oil"? I was just going to clean them off with WD40 or PB Blaster, I have both handy.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Some injector pics...
Probably doesn't matter what brand - I been usin' WD-40 only cause I got more of that that anything. I DO imagine that the thinnest, lightest stuff will blow back out of the bolt hole with the most 'speed', and carry out the grit and grime. WD is okay, but it's a little more viscous that PB I think. Just plant that red spray attachment in the bottom of the hole, and have the hole level for best drainage.
There's probably a couple of ways to pull the injector clips, including tool Jxxxx for $35. I pulled mine with a small screwdriver - pic 1. Get under the clip, and roll the blade toward the injector body. All 16 - 8x2, came out problem free.
Every fuel rail-end O-ring stayed in the rail. Be careful prying it out - that ring is only an inch or 2 from the intake port, and needs to seal good, w/o vacuum leaks.
The tip O-ring was not too much problem.
They O-rings are cleaned, and soakin' in Trans-X til re-install. That stuff makes rubber VERY soft.
Last edited by schrade; May 26, 2008 at 07:02 PM.
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O-rings are pocket change, replace them!
I heard here that dish soap is best for the orings... I had used motor oil in the past but apparantly thats bad.
My injector clips came out easy with a screwdriver too, can't believe people spend 35 on a tool!
WD40 - that won't really last tho over time will it? I once did a headgasket and used anti-seize just about everywhere for all the parts I removed in the process... had silver smears just about everywhere too. I live in Chicago area and bolts get rusty... sadly this vette was driven in the winter a few years, but looks to have been covered with oil from before that so alot of stuff is in good shape.
gotta get out there, missing valuable day-off daylight and I am a slow putz
I heard here that dish soap is best for the orings... I had used motor oil in the past but apparantly thats bad.
My injector clips came out easy with a screwdriver too, can't believe people spend 35 on a tool!
WD40 - that won't really last tho over time will it? I once did a headgasket and used anti-seize just about everywhere for all the parts I removed in the process... had silver smears just about everywhere too. I live in Chicago area and bolts get rusty... sadly this vette was driven in the winter a few years, but looks to have been covered with oil from before that so alot of stuff is in good shape.
gotta get out there, missing valuable day-off daylight and I am a slow putz
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Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I got the intake bolt holes clean, and when it goes in the tank, I DO NOT want anything settlin' in the holes.
At re-assembly, I use anti-seize with copper almost everywhere, except gaskets. They get a thin layer of grease, like the rubber TB diaphragm post #23 pic 1.
PIC 3 post 28 ... Does the EGR gasket have metallic heat paste, or somethin' like that, between it and the intake? Ya' think thread anti-seize #13 with copper will work as well?
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
Didn't you see my earlier post on the NAPA part number for the TB gasket set?
No one else has a full gasket set for the darn thing!
I know, I tried to find one years ago when I rebuilt an 88.
Since they take afew days to get I always have 2 on the shelf in the garage.
No one else has a full gasket set for the darn thing!
I know, I tried to find one years ago when I rebuilt an 88.
Since they take afew days to get I always have 2 on the shelf in the garage.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I saw it, but didn't really note it since I had already purchased intake and V/C gaskets about 5 weeks ago. I never opened 'em to see if they actually had ALL the gaskets.
Now I got the TB coolant attachment sealed. I'm gonna' stay with it.
But how 'bout the EGR gasket-to-intake anti-seize?
PIC 3 post 28 ... Does the EGR gasket have metallic heat paste, or somethin' like that, between it and the intake? Ya' think thread anti-seize #13 with copper will work as well?
Le Mans Master
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Sorry I got here late but the fuel lines do not have to be taken off to do this job. All that is needed is to pull the rails and flip them over onto the surge tank. It also make for easy replacement of the "O" rings.
For future reference the Felpro intake kit comes with the TB gasket and "O' rings for the injectors as well as the AIR gasket.There is no need to remove the EGR to do this just unplug it.That is why the Felpro kit does not have that gasket. Another tip is to scuff the forward and rear of the intake and block with some sand paper and use Permatex " The Right Stuff" RTV You can start the car pretty much as soon as you get it back togther with that "stuff". I have done a couple of these and can do it in about 2-3 hrs now.
Like I said a little late on this post but it may help someone else.....
For future reference the Felpro intake kit comes with the TB gasket and "O' rings for the injectors as well as the AIR gasket.There is no need to remove the EGR to do this just unplug it.That is why the Felpro kit does not have that gasket. Another tip is to scuff the forward and rear of the intake and block with some sand paper and use Permatex " The Right Stuff" RTV You can start the car pretty much as soon as you get it back togther with that "stuff". I have done a couple of these and can do it in about 2-3 hrs now.
Like I said a little late on this post but it may help someone else.....
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Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Injectors after the toothbrush...
... and ready to re-assemble and bag up...
Screen baskets are re-inserted, body is brushed, O-rings are installed and lubed with Trans-X, and the rails were dis-assembled, swabbed with Q-tips and bushed off with toothbrush, and re-assembled.
WOW! I need to start up the coffee pot! I got about 22 hours in it right now...
Screen baskets are re-inserted, body is brushed, O-rings are installed and lubed with Trans-X, and the rails were dis-assembled, swabbed with Q-tips and bushed off with toothbrush, and re-assembled.
WOW! I need to start up the coffee pot! I got about 22 hours in it right now...
Last edited by schrade; May 27, 2008 at 07:40 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Well you are doing quite a bit more than I would have. I just flip the fuel lines and TB out of the way and do the gaskets. I disconnect as little as possible not even the hoses off the TB. You can spend a lot of time cleaning and detailing but I say screw it fix it a drive it like you stole it. A litlle wipe here and there is good enough for me. The worst part is gettin at the oil build up off the front but again a good job on that can wait till the opti goes( as we all know it will).