C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Best setup for....

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Old May 25, 2008 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
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jim_hewett
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From: Laurel MS
Default Best setup for....

94 Lt1 6sp, new eng (12K), minor mods: 1.6RR's, 53mm TB, Vortex forced air, MSD ign., Borla Cats. No hard core racing..just want a C-5, C-6, Mustang, & Viper eater. 100 HP, wet or dry, single or multi-point? What's a 10# NO recharge costing lately??

Cheers
Check your 6

Last edited by jim_hewett; May 25, 2008 at 09:33 PM.
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Old May 26, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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Just about any wet kit with all the safety stuff will work for you. I like NX stuff, Nitro Dave sells good stuff, dynotune nitrous has some cool stuff, and TnT sells good stuff.

www.nitrodaves.com
www.texasnitroustechnology.com
www.dynotunenitrous.com

Some on here really like the Barry Grant set up. I don't think it's all that great, but opinions vary.

I would stay away from NOS brand solenoids, especially the smaller solenoids. There bigger solenoids have always worked for me, but the smalled ones have failed me on more than one ocassion.

I would do a wet kit with a single fogger nozzle, or plate between the throttle body and intake. Direct port isn't necessary at the level you are talking about.

You could do dry as well, most (including me) seem to prefer wet, but dry kits can be great as well. Especially if all you're going to shoot is a 100 shot.

Last edited by neat; May 28, 2008 at 11:23 PM.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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jim_hewett
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From: Laurel MS
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Originally Posted by neat
Just about any wet kit with all the safety stuff will work for you. I like NX stuff, Nitro Dave sells good stuff, dynotune nitrous has some cool stuff, and TnT sells good stuff.

www.davesnitrowarehouse.com
www.texasnitroutechnology.com
www.dynotunenitrous.com

Some on here really like the Barry Grant set up. I don't think it's all that great, but opinions vary.

I would stay away from NOS brand solenoids, especially the smaller solenoids. There bigger solenoids have always worked for me, but the smalled ones have failed me on more than one ocassion.

I would do a wet kit with a single fogger nozzle, or plate between the throttle body and intake. Direct port isn't necessary at the level you are talking about.

You could do dry as well, most (including me) seem to prefer wet, but dry kits can be great as well. Especially if all you're going to shoot is a 100 shot.
Thanks neat, good stuff....let me bother you w 2 other questions.
Any real advantage to a TB plate vs a nozzle fogger?(behind MAFS)
Lastly..nozzle distance from TB intake..is that critical? If I go w the nozzle was considering mounting at the Vortex forced air duct in front of the MAFS.
Thanks a million,
Jim
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Old May 28, 2008 | 03:32 PM
  #4  
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From: Wilmington NC
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WET Kit Fogger MUST be mounted after the MAF. on my old setup I put it directly after the MAF this way it gave the fuel and nitrous some extra length to mix before being dispursed in the intake manifold and kept un-atomized fuel from having to make the hard turn into number 1 and number 2 cyliners.

good luck with it!

Chris
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Old May 28, 2008 | 11:26 PM
  #5  
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neat
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Originally Posted by jim_hewett
Thanks neat, good stuff....let me bother you w 2 other questions.
Any real advantage to a TB plate vs a nozzle fogger?(behind MAFS)
Lastly..nozzle distance from TB intake..is that critical? If I go w the nozzle was considering mounting at the Vortex forced air duct in front of the MAFS.
Thanks a million,
Jim
I like the fogger over the plate personally. I've heard (never experienced though) about distribution problems with the plate set ups. The first 2 intake ports are pretty close to the TB and I've heard they get an extra big shot of dope when using a plate system.

The fogger nozzle must be between the MAF and the throttle body if you use a wet kit. You can not spray through the MAF with a wet kit.

I also fixed my links, they should work now.
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