C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Hurst Shifter installation

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Old May 28, 2008 | 09:35 PM
  #1  
Port A Vette's Avatar
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Default Hurst Shifter installation

I am on step 5 of the Hurst "FACTORY SHIFTER REMOVAL" instructions. I should have got a cat back system to re-install, maybe the new 3 inch Magnaflow. I just finished disconnecting my cats. Luckily I didn't break any bolts. I will continue unbolting the system in the morning (I'll take a day off). I have a spare shifter so steps 11 through 17 have already been completed. I just need to R & R the shifter assembly. There was no way a 280 lb ham fisted man was going to drive the pin out of the shifter linkage without dropping the exhaust. So far the swap is going fine. I've also been refering to the FSM and the many Hurst install threads here on the Forum. Here is a good one with pictures.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=shifter

Larry
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Old May 28, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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From: Daleville Indiana
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This was the first mod I did to the vette. You'll love it.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Indeed, there isn't much room to work even with the exhaust out of there - LOL! Good luck with the remainder of you install!

PS - you may want to get a shorter shift boot - I got mine from RedlineGoods here on the forum.

Last edited by pianoguy; May 28, 2008 at 11:12 PM.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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FYI, the Hurst shifter I had was too wide to fit and had to remove a tiny bit of metal to make it fit. Took my time and even polished where there is metal contact.

It is a pain and should have been stock.

I also got a cool shift **** from Flameball.com

Last edited by carson; May 28, 2008 at 11:29 PM.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 05:36 AM
  #5  
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From: Laurel MS
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The sweat equity is worth it Larry. That Hurst SS is one of the best mods for your ZF, you'll appreciate & enjoy. Now...start making plans to chg out that Optispark for an MSD and that std radiator for a 2 row aluminum i.e. Dewitts or Becool and you'll be approaching perfection.

Cheers
Check your 6

Last edited by jim_hewett; May 29, 2008 at 05:39 AM.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 05:45 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by jim_hewett
The sweat equity is worth it Larry. That Hurst SS is one of the best mods for your ZF, you'll appreciate & enjoy. Now...start making plans to chg out that Optispark for an MSD and that std radiator for a 2 row aluminum i.e. Dewitts or Becool and you'll be approaching perfection.

Cheers
Check your 6
I already have the MSD Optispark. I thought I had cleared the C4 bad mod job hump. Not on your life.

The shifter install is EVIL!!! Deninitely not for the faint of heart. I dropped the exhaust but still have it connected on the passenger side although it is slid back for clearance. I used a large rubber mallet and administered the beating to get it to move and have enough clearance for my big hands.

I wound up going off island for two sizes of long lineup punches by Mayhew Tools (Made in USA) I got 1/4 and 5/32 sizes at the Oreilleys Auto on the other side of the ferry in Aransas Pass. I was able to drive the pin out using the new punches and a 3 pound sledge. I finally have the shifter mechanism installed. I need to get the pin in just a tiny bit more so I can slide the snap ring retainer back into place. Getting the shifter linkage back on the transmission was a chore. I did flip the link when I installed the new billet shifter so I am driving up to replace the pin. I don't see how you could install it and drive the pin from the top. The instructions seem vague here.

The inner boot in the console was real fun to install too. I'm using a new one and installing it with the console structure in place is also challenging. I nudged the boot on from above and below. Lots of time spent wiggling and prodding and I didn't tear or rip it.

I still need to reassemble the console (door lid and shifter plate) , install the ****, move the snap ring back underneath and tie the lower boot back up. Then bang the exhaust back into place and bolt it back up. If I punt and finish tomorrow it won't matter. I have most of the evilness finished.

I was using a small pin punch at first and going no where fast. Once I got the big alignment punches (they are quite long) I had the pin out in 10 minutes.

I guess this is another rite of C4 ownership. Only those who have suffered installing a new shifter - either Hurst or B&M - KNOW MY PAIN Is there anything easy to do on these cars?

I need to install a new rear aux brake light and I understand that is a real fun one too.

Larry

Last edited by Port A Vette; May 29, 2008 at 09:54 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old May 29, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #7  
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From: Apple Valley MN
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I was lucky - my shift rod pin tapped in and out quite easily. The worst part of the job for me was the rubber boot above the shifter - the underside of it was slathered with some kind of sticky goo that made it very hard to remove. Once I got it off, I spent quite a bit of time cleaning it with WD-40 and alcohol, otherwise I'd never have gotten it back on.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #8  
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Default Almost Done!

I have one bolt on the exhaust hanger on the passenger side by the rear wheel to attach (my fat body doesn't fit too well on this side of the car). Then drop the car off the jack stands, reconnect the battery and take it for a spin. Boy I'm glad this one is done. Us plus 50 guys get real sore working this hard.

Larry
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Old May 30, 2008 | 11:33 AM
  #9  
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Default Got it done

I drove the car to work this morning. It shifts fine and I'll need to get used to the shorter throws.

Larry
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Old May 30, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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From: Laurel MS
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Originally Posted by Port A Vette
I drove the car to work this morning. It shifts fine and I'll need to get used to the shorter throws.

Larry
Like riding a bicycle...I quote "Mr ZF," Bill Boudreau, "Without the reverse lockout feature you are very capable of shifting the ZF in reverse @ any speed(15# break thru required) then it becomes a $2000 misunderstanding!"

Cheers

Last edited by jim_hewett; May 31, 2008 at 06:48 AM.
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