I drove my car around all day yesterday and it ran fine. Late last night I went to start it and no crank, good batt power and a code 46. I have tried to start it several times and cleaned the key off. I waited 3 munutes, 15 minutes and 30 minutes between start times. Tried again this morning too. The damn car still wont start.

What is there I can do?
I dont have my manual on hand right now but can a 46 stand for anything else?

 

Vette Yr is helpful. VATS will disable with no crank, but after 15 minutes you should be able to start if its the vats.
Check fuel pressure at the rails, check for codes

 

Code 46 means you have a problem in the VATS circuit.

Click HERE

 

You wouldnt happen to have section 8A of that manual would you? Thats what the troubleshooting tree led me to.

 

Just had the Vats problem visit me two days ago.

Ran into a store for 10 mintues and turned the key, all power accessories but no crank. Open the window and waited 10 minutes. Fired right up. Was wondering if a hot interior could contribute?

 

I just took a peek in the key cylnder and I notice I can see only one contact inside. One side is missing. Im wondering if it just broke from wear and tear? Im about to yank this stuff apart and take a closer look.

 

Run a diagnostic of the CCM Section 8A reads if the UTD system is disarmed but the engine will not crank - 1check the CCM for codes 51-54 61-65 If any set refer to section 8D 2 If engine code 46 refer to driveability and emissions 3 Perform cylinder lock and harness test . 4 Refer to starter and charging circuit

 

The dreaded VATS visited me last Saturday and again yesterday . I had already picked up the needed resistors at Radio Shack and bypassed the system last night.
This is my DD so I have to keep it running until I can track down the root cause.
Use a VOM and check your key resistance. Do a SEARCH and find the allowable range of your key set.
There is a ton of info here in the search, as I think I killed a small forest printing most of it out in the past few days . This should help in the trouble shooting.

 

Ok so I made it a little farther. I put a bridge over terminal A (blue and white wire) and terminal E (yellow wire) on the relay. This lets the engine turn over but not fire. I was reading on vatssucks.com, is there another step to testing beside getting a new chip burned or making your own? Does anoyone know anything else?

 

The VATS disables the crank and the injector fuel feed. To defeat the VATS, by pass the cylinder with a resistor plugged into the connector located at the lower end of the steering column. The resistor connects to the firewall direction wire (not to the cylinder direction wire). The resistance values are listed below. Measure the key to find the resistance you need, then buy a correct combination from Radio Shack (cheap but must be accurate).
VATS Key Pellet Values

# Value Range (in kohms)
1 .402 . 386-.438
2 . 523 . 502-.564
3 . 681 . 650-.728
4 . 887 . 850-.942
5 1.130 1.085-1.195
6 1.470 1.411-1.549
7 1.870 1.795-1.965
8 2.370 2.275-2.485
9 3.010 2.890-3.150
10 3.740 3.590-3.910
11 4.750 4.560-4.960
12 6.040 5.798-6.302
13 7.500 7.200-7.820
14 9.530 9. 149-9.931
15 11.800 11.320-12.290

In these values, "K" stands for 1000 so the values range from 402 to 12,290 ohms. If you don't know how to combine resistors to get an exact desired value, post here again for more instructions.
Hope this helps and good luck.
PS When my VATS 'crapped', it was simply a dirty cylinder. I cleaned it with a foam ear plug. Don't push it in too far so you can get it back out.
And "Search" - there is lots of VATS info here.

 

Ok what I have tried so far:

Ear plug clean
Cleaned key with rubbing alcohoal
Tested ohms on key, it was #6 @1.473 (just about perfect)
Bridged the A and E terminals


After bridging the terminals the engine would crank but wouldnt fire.

Next try: Key cylinder bypass. Ill go to radio shack.
Ill have to do this the day after tommorow. Im on a 24 hour shift tommorow.
Thanks for all the info so far, its been a big help. Ill get this thing fixed here soon. for more info!

 

[QUOTE=cplonner;1565680907]
What is there I can do?
QUOTE]

Been there, done that on my '90. Maybe this will help:
http://wagtail.home.att.net/extras/vatsbite.pdf

Most likely you'll find that there is more going on here than just a malfunctioning vats system.

 

Got off shift today and went to radio shack. I bought the proper resistors and installed them on the wire. BAM! Fired right up. Thank you for all your help, it is greatly appreatiated.

I noticed that on vatssucks.com they did not have pictures for this procedure. I took pictures of the steps that I did and will find who to send them too. I thought thats the least I could do for the good, free information that was provided on that website.

Many thanks!

 

Can you please send me the pictures? I'm having an issue and want to bypass the vats system altogether.

Thanks,
Dave

koredbr at yahoo dot com

 

 

Insert your key in the ign and measure the resistance across the 2 wires from above the steering column. It should measure the same as the pellet, and if more than 4% off, then you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. I drive my 87 every day and I have replaced the ign lock twice, about 9 years apart. If you permanently bypass VATS, you car can easily be stolen by the most common way to steal cars, .....bash the colum and jump the ignition.

 

 

Very true. Mine is only driven a couple times a week and its kept in the garage so im not worried for my situation. Also you can buy your self a newer security system that isnt prone to leaving you stranded like this one has done to me.

 

New security systems have the same failure modes that VATS does that came with your vette. I drive my 87 Corvette everyday and for 19 years now and I have replaced my ign lock for VATS problems twice, each about 9 years apart. Keep your car in good repair. If you have someone repair your car you have to explain to them what non standard stuff yours has and how it works. Why in the world don't you just repair the original equipment? I have read many posts about aftermarket stuff draining batteries and the poster finally having to remove the aftermarket junk. I don't understand why VATS causes any more upset than a dead starter motor or a dead battery. When something breaks, fix it instead of experiencing a no start over and over and over. Why can't you people think logically?

 

I get it: Thinking logically = agreeing with your VATS philosophy