I'm changing the plugs on my 92 for the first time along with a MSD opti, wires and new WP.
My question - Is it really necessary to put a torque wrench on the plugs? I've changed plugs many times on cars and bikes and have never tried to tighten them with a torque wrench.
I can understand that yea, it would be nice to do but the plugs are a pain in the @ss to change as it is without the additional work of trying to torque them to specifications.
Just looking for general opinions on this.
Thanks

 

I didn't bother torquing mine, but I had a couple that came loose shortly afterward. Maybe it would be a good idea to torque one or two of them that are easy to reach just to get the "feel". Make sure to put anti-seize on the threads.

 

ive been a mechanic for twenty years and never torqued a plug. just make sure you tighten them like you would any other plug and you should be ok. pay special attention to the two back plugs on passenger side because you might not get those as tight as they need to be because of the room to work.

 

The only way you could torque them down is by removing all the hardware around them. I installed headers and for the first time, I was able to torque the plugs due to the fact that the front suspension was not there, the oil dipstick was not there, the air tubes were not there, and the ASR was not there.

I agree with BigWave, "wristpower" them up.

I applied anti-seized compound too, was that a good thing?

 

Also, if the spark plug socket is not at a 90* angle to the torque wrench, the torque setting will not be accurate for example: using universal joints and swivels.

 

I've not torqued plugs on my L98 but am damn careful with them and clean the threads before applying a nice film of anti-seize.

If the spark plug hole is rather clean you can "feel" when the gasket has been compressed.

 

Thanks for the replys.
I feel better now cuz I didn't torque mine.
I've read where some have used a torque wrench and wondered how in the heck they did it.

 

I too have done lots and lots of plugs in my life.

However, since I found three passenger side plugs loose (from previous owner's mechanics), and did not want to create any problems with the aluminum heads, I DID use a torque wrench on all but the rear most passenger side plug on our 94.

I can only guess the previous owner's mechanics did not use a torque wrench either -- and as the other member noted, loose plugs can be the result.

Therefore, I'd recommend using a torque wrench, especially if you can and have one.

The driver side, after swinging the ASR out-of-the-way, IS VERY EASY. I was even able to get my 2' long 1/2" drive torque wrench on each plug with just a straight 3/8" driver 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/4" long 3/8" extension and the 1/2" x 3/8" drive adapter. Torque is 11 ft lbs (albeit I set it for 12 ft lbs to compensate for a slightly loose socket and a cheap torque wrench).

The passenger side is actually the more difficult side.

The forward most plug, was relatively easy, in only required using the socket with a built in single knuckle swivel.

the next two Plugs were easy, and was able to use the straight socket on them.

All the above were easily torqued with a 2' long 1/2" drive torque wrench (remember to increase torque wrench setting 1-2 lb fts when using a swivel -- e.g. on plug # 2 I set wrench at 14 lb fts).

the rear most Plug, now that's another story because of the air handler/ac/blower 'box' and the extra long bolts on the fuel line bracket and dip-stick bracket.

It requires small hands (which I thankfully have) and at maximum a short 3/8" drive ratchet and a straight 3/8" drive 5/8" socket.

To torque, would require a small 3/8" drive torque wrench (which I do not have nor could find easily). So, I 'guessed' the torque, after doing the other 3, to hopefully give me a feel for the correct torque.

 

What's a torque wrench?

 

I attempt to torque one of them with a 3/8" torque wrench to get a "feel" for whats necessary. It's easy to overtorque if you aren't carefull.

Sorry no C4 stuff, but C5/C6/C6Z torque specs and more at my site.

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com

 

Just a fancy name for a hammer.

 

Just say "click" real loud as you do each one....that'll make you feel better

It usually works for me

 

The steel base of the plug and the aluminum head expand with heat at different rates. The anti-sieze keeps the plug from becoming stuck in place.

You should also only remove plugs when the cylinder head is cold. Aluminum expands at a faster rate than steel and it's easy to strip the threads if the heads are hot.

 

I do the same thing, just to get a "feel" for the torque setting, but I never sweat it. I m mainly put the TW on a plug when the engine is out of the car. From that point on Igo by feel.

Yep, I ALWAYS anti-seize the threads too, making sure that none gets on the insulator,firing tip or ground strap.

Jake

 

tighten them down 'til you strip the threads, then back them off 1/4 turn -

seriously, i always torque my plugs - guess it's my a&p training...