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Items that modify CA or TB inputs only fool the computer into adding more fuel per given air charge. What folks don't realize is that the o2s sense this overly rich condition and the computer starts adjusting it out through other means to maintain the proper air ratio. At first it seems to work, but later, as the computer "learns" the condition and adjusts it out, you end up where you started from but with other things out of wack.
Most of these devises are a simple resistor things and all they can do is modify the existing input signal. Look at the inputs they work on, either a cold air signal or a throttle body plate angle. Even if these inputs are modified to the very limits of their capability they will only have minor impact at best. In a properly tuned engine system, you can pretty well be assured there is little hp to be found by modding an electrical wire.
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
And if still not convinced, I have a used one on the shelf I can let you have cheap. It used to be a paper weight on my desk for awhile but I have since upgraded to an airfoil. It looks neater on the desk and people ask more questions about it.
Rick
Get a custom tune on a dyno and you'll break it. About same price.
A true "dyno-tune" will cost considerably more than $130.
Since yours is a '96 (OBD2), you could send your PCM to pcmforless.com and get a mail order tune done for around $200. You'll get alot more for your money there than w/ the "throttle calibrator".