Where are the shift governors located on a 700R4? Can they be replace without dropping the transmission? I would like to raise the swifting points.

 

http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...vi_9-bm-1.html
-Beppe-

 

Its on the drivers side near the back. Round cover. Ive done mine a few times. The hard part is getting the cover back on. Its sort of a tight fit and there is not much working room. Exhaust is in the way. Its very doable, but you have to have some patience. Look before you leap.

 

The black round cap is the governor. If yours has never been removed, it will be factory glued in. You will need to pop it off gently with a screwdriver. If you are rebuilding your current one, you will need a new governor gear, possibly valve, and a seal to put the cap back on. When re-installing DO NOT hit the center of the cap - it WILL collapse. So use a drift (or a 1/4" extension bar would work) and hit the lip of the cap while going around the circle.

My new governor gear did not have the roll-pin hole drilled into it, so if yours comes like that also I believe you need a 1/8" drill. Push the new gear in all the way and drill through. Make sure the hole is straight and drill from both sides if necessary to attain a straight passage.

Taking off the exhaust system will make life much easier. If you do decide to take it off, spray ALL exhaust bolts with PB blaster or similar product. Taking off the actual exhaust can be done alone (like I did) but required a jack, jackstand, and careful maneuvering. Its not that heavy though, but regardless, I wouldn't want it to fall on me unnecessarily. I unbolted my corsa cat-back from the cat first and then the 6 bolts at the triangle flanges at the 2 ends of the exhaust manifolds. Its a 20 min job, but for the flange bolts at the headers you will need a deep socket 15 mm. Air tools would definitely help make it quicker.

And be ready for some ATF to come out. Wear proper eye protection and a drip pan. Now wouldn't be a bad time to drop the pan, clean the magnet and pan, and change the filter and ATF. I used mineral spirits, then carb cleaner, then brake cleaner and cleaned dry with compressed air to clean the pan (my magnet was missing for some reason and a new one cost $8 at the chevy dealer!!). When removing the valve from the governor to inspect it for any wear, also clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. When drilling for the roll pin, make sure to blow it very well with compressed air to get all shavings out. To remove the valve I used a 3/32 pin punch (found at sears for $5).

Here's a picture of the governor (black cap):


Here's a pic of the governor and cap (the top one) out of the case:



Here's a pic of the exhaust flange nuts, see why you need the deep socket?


If you need more pics, I have over 200 of my current rebuild.

Good luck,

Jonathan

 

Thanks guys for all the help and advice. It doesn't look to difficult. I have installed a Miniram and a supercharger and I need to raise the shift points.