air pump delete without pulley?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Part of the problem in simply removing the AIR pump is that the angle of the belt from the top of the PS pulley to the alternator and back again will cause the belt against itself.
Look from the top of the alternator pulley back down to the underside of the waterpump and you can see how the belt will rub where the belt goes over the top of the PS pump pulley.
The delete bracket places its pulley up high enough so that there is no rubbing. Some brackets may require a smaller belt (depends on the bracket and the year of the car).
Look from the top of the alternator pulley back down to the underside of the waterpump and you can see how the belt will rub where the belt goes over the top of the PS pump pulley.
The delete bracket places its pulley up high enough so that there is no rubbing. Some brackets may require a smaller belt (depends on the bracket and the year of the car).
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 10
From: Mauriceville TX
I had intentions of removing the air pump assembly from my 85. After I removed it I brought out the string to get the dimensions of a shorter belt. As the previous post says, there is no way (easy way) due to the position of the alternator pulley. Zip makes a by-pass assembly for the air pump...I ordered one...I think it was about $150-160. It's advertised as a by-pass assembly that will help reduce horse power robbing drag on your engine.
Once I took my air pump assembly off (I had long ago removed all the assorted hoses), I noticed that turning the air pump pulley by hand takes virtually no effort at all. So I'm not sure about the claim of it robbing a lot of HP from the engine. I'm not expert and I will defer to the C4 experts here, but I really don't think it's going to gain you much if you remove it and manage to find a way to re-route the serpentine belt.
When I got my 85 it didn't run, so one of the first things I started to do was remove all the unnecessary hoses, etc...anything that might be associated with emissions, (where I'm from emissions testing is not required...you need to do your homework before you tinker with yours). As I said, I removed all that stuff before I got my engine running. I don't know if when an air pump is properly plumbed and working, if it develops more drag on the engine. Mine has the one hose disconnected and I have not blocked off the hose fitting.
I cleaned up the air pump, brackets and painted be back portion of my air pump and re-installed it. My by-pass assembly from Zip still sits in the box I received it in...un-opened.
Once I took my air pump assembly off (I had long ago removed all the assorted hoses), I noticed that turning the air pump pulley by hand takes virtually no effort at all. So I'm not sure about the claim of it robbing a lot of HP from the engine. I'm not expert and I will defer to the C4 experts here, but I really don't think it's going to gain you much if you remove it and manage to find a way to re-route the serpentine belt.
When I got my 85 it didn't run, so one of the first things I started to do was remove all the unnecessary hoses, etc...anything that might be associated with emissions, (where I'm from emissions testing is not required...you need to do your homework before you tinker with yours). As I said, I removed all that stuff before I got my engine running. I don't know if when an air pump is properly plumbed and working, if it develops more drag on the engine. Mine has the one hose disconnected and I have not blocked off the hose fitting.
I cleaned up the air pump, brackets and painted be back portion of my air pump and re-installed it. My by-pass assembly from Zip still sits in the box I received it in...un-opened.
