I have a 95 automatic and today when it was 90 out with the AC on, in stop and go traffic, the coolant was 210-215, the oil was 224-228 and the transmission was 221-224. Is this normal??

 

Well within operating limits.

Given that the car is 13 years old, you may want to check the radiator and a/c condenser fins for debris. They're probably due for a cleaning and that may lower temps a little.

 

we've got cicadas down here in the midwest right now and they like to clog up the fins pretty good. Leaves and other debris like to get sucked up in there too.

 

Under those conditions---Yes all normal.

 

OK, thanks, I was certain about the oil and coolant, the transmission temp was giving me concern.

 

Never bought the "it's operating normally opinion", did the debris removal bit & didn't make a difference.(good first step though) Read this from "Gordon Killebrew", on down. My contention is simply
heat cycling is not healthy for engine, wiring, hoses, and motor oils (Mobil 1)
Best solution I found: R&R that undersized radiator, and install the
2 coiled aluminum DeWitts or Becool. Sure it will cost you around $500 plus install, but how serious are you about solving the problem?
Flame artists need not apply...please.

Cheers
Check your 6

 

Completely normal on oil and coolant. If coolant goes above 230* and keeps climbing you have an issue. Fans run with the AC on.

 

I appreciate that you took time to answer, but I am trying to determine if there is a problem before I look for a solution. I realize not everyone agrees as to what the ideal temperature is and many believe that cooler is better, but I am happy to run the car the way the factory designed it. I realize that it may be a compromise between long life of under-hood components and emissions and fuel economy and power, but for now, I just want to make sure that I am within the "design" envelope.

Thanks again

 

Then, for what it's worth, there's never been a Service Bulletin or Recall specifically directed at overheating, so as far as the OEM's are concerned, their Engineers did enough to comply with the Law and get them through the warranty period. There are a few caveats of course, Dexcool, though the experts (against Toyota at least) have penned that one on engine design, not necessarily the coolant itself). And the cooling pellets, which GM now says it never put into the cooling system at the Factory, but GM can't deny that they came up with these miracle pills as they were afraid that removing asbestos from the gaskets would lead to coolant leaks and they wanted something to ensure that there weren't any warranty claims. Unfortunately, for those that have followed the Service Manual Procedure of dropping in 2 tabs with each coolant exchange, there have been some nasty looking gelled up coolant mixtures and of course some overheating issues. In any event, your coolant temps look no different than anything out there today, but if you want to dig into it, start by verifying your gages with a scan which will give you the Coolant Temp Sensor signal. They (depending on Year) should be the same or within 5 degrees of each other. Then, with your scanner in hand, observe the fans and note the temperature that they come on at and that once they're running, that the temperature drops. Recheck with the a/c on and note the a/c pressure signal when the fans click on. See your Field Service Manual for operating specs; the numbers that the fans should be clicking on at and in either situation (non a/c - a/c) that the temperature or pressure drops. If you have all that - it's normal.

 

the real benefit to using a dewitt or griffin dual row is stability. you can road race the car, sit in traffic or drive in the desert with a 180 thermostat, bring the fans on at 195 and keep the car in a tight operating range. you don't go from 170-230deg like some of the low temp stat stocker setups. i actually monkied with the stock radiator and improving flow in my own car. with a new stock radiator that isn't full of junk of deposits in the tubes from 20 years of water, removal of the AC condenser up front and a 170 stat the car operates between 77 and 95 on #16 of the climate control 98% of the time. keep in mind i have a .040 over 350 with a 503 cam & 180 heads topped with a MR manifold, the car runs 12.3-12.4 all day, which of course means....more heat than stock. if i had to bitch anywhere with the c4 it would be on the zr1. the oem radiator is totally undersized for that LT5. stock ones climb fast on lap days.

 

1996 auto

Not wanting to hijack but.........

I'm curious as to what is above normal for a '96 auto tranny. OP was 221-224. If this is within normal temps what is "TO HOT"? I'm planning a trip to the mountains and would like to know when I need to cool it down if the tranny gets to hot. Also, are the fined/ribbed auto cooling pans worth the effort? Thanks

 

You later guys have a trans temp guage hu? Nice.

 

No analog gauge on mine.......just a temp indicator in the digital display. It doesn't give you parameters just real time temps. That's the reason for my previous post.

 

Here is a link to the 95 service manual, check page 128 for some guidelines on transmission temperatures.

https://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2cont...95corvette.pdf

 

Thanks TT. I think that's a owners manual but it still had what I wanted to know. 280 is to hot! And it will tell you so on the display.

Oh Duh! I never thought of looking in mine......

 

Yep, you are correct, my mistake meant to say owners manual. I agree 280 would scare me, just trying to show GM's thoughts on the matter. I don't think the OP should be too concerned however based on his temps in those conditions.
Wish my 93 had the trans temp gauge like the 4L60E, nice improvement.

 

Yeah, I was freaking out Sunday on the way back from the beach when mine hit 236! But I had all that ASR/ABS issue going on then. (BTW, that was a lose wire on the TPS causing that i think. Hasn't done it since I found that). Mine usually runs around 206-219 on the road. Just depends on starts and stop and of course outside temps.

 

Thanks for the update on the ASR/ABS, good to know, glad you got it fixed.

 

I would be concern with anything above 240ish for any long period of time.. 250+.. I would pull over and shut it down. but that is just my option.