C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Car weak after hard driving

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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 03:11 PM
  #21  
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Its simple...thanx to the ecm,ignition timing retards when motor runs hot or overheats,it basically puts the car in "limp mode" until it cools down. This advice came stictly from my tuner,not unusual. In the case of higher mileage cars this effect is magnified
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by blackula 99
Its simple...thanx to the ecm,ignition timing retards when motor runs hot or overheats,it basically puts the car in "limp mode" until it cools down. This advice came stictly from my tuner,not unusual. In the case of higher mileage cars this effect is magnified
I totally had the same thought with knock retard or just plain hp fall off from warmer air. the one header glowing is worrysome though, you need to check the plugs on that side, see what they look like. could be a few causes. plug check first, let us know what you find.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by blackula 99
Its simple...thanx to the ecm,ignition timing retards when motor runs hot or overheats,it basically puts the car in "limp mode" until it cools down. This advice came stictly from my tuner,not unusual. In the case of higher mileage cars this effect is magnified
But this is getting wors and wors now. I can't drive long now until the car gets weak. When it's at the worst point I can't rev it more than 3500rpm.. Doesn't it feels like a clogged cat?

Last edited by edwardpayne; Jun 15, 2008 at 04:17 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by daytonaer
A vacuum gauge can help you determine bad catalytic converters, they can melt too so the ceramic will not rattle when hit with a hammer.

Check your intake vacuum at idle, driving and hot. Clogged converters will not allow the engine to make proper vacuum.
Okay. How do I check the intake vacuum? That sounds like something I could do myself if I only had a vacuum-checking-tool.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardpayne
Okay. How do I check the intake vacuum? That sounds like something I could do myself if I only had a vacuum-checking-tool.

Thanks!
Disconnect the brake booster line and connect a vacuum gauge to it. Vacuum should be a steady 19" at a warm 600 rpm idle.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 05:58 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by racebum
I totally had the same thought with knock retard or just plain hp fall off from warmer air. the one header glowing is worrysome though, you need to check the plugs on that side, see what they look like. could be a few causes. plug check first, let us know what you find.
I just checked the plugs and they looked fine to me. Not worn or any signs of anything unusual. They were AC Delco.

The time it takes for it to go weak it getting shorter, but it's allways the same. Can't rev more than 3500 rpms and when I'm there the engine is running kind of odd, something is troubling it - it's my best explanation.

I really hope to sort this thing out. I pulled the codes once again the only one was C12 which I can't find and it's probably nothing?

So up to this point I've checked:

- All injectors cold at 15.0 to 15.3 ohms
- Banging on the cats and they are all silent
- Spark plugs look OK
- Left pre cat looks like it's getting warmer than the left one, glowing in the dark

Yes, that's about it I think.

My simple unqualified thought is - could there be a sensor somewhere giving bad readings but not that the ECM know it's wrong?
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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How is your fuel pressure and filter? If the heat is from a lean condition that would be where to look.
C12 is fine it means the ECM is communicating.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
How is your fuel pressure and filter? If the heat is from a lean condition that would be where to look.
C12 is fine it means the ECM is communicating.
I don't have the tools to check the fuel pressure and I haven't checked the filter yet, that's something I will look into. The car will rev higher when it's cold thou..

Thanks!
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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swedish for transmission = gear box.

I think some of the language barrier might be preventing you from getting proper help. hopefully not...

wish I could help.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardpayne
I don't have the tools to check the fuel pressure and I haven't checked the filter yet, that's something I will look into. The car will rev higher when it's cold thou..

Thanks!
Well you need 3 things fuel,air and spark. From what you say one is lacking and fuel is the next to check. I suppose you have autoparts stores over there and they should have a fuel pressure gauge that will attach to your Schrader valve. Turn the key on and check it then check it while the car idles and let us know what you get.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by the blur
swedish for transmission = gear box.

I think some of the language barrier might be preventing you from getting proper help. hopefully not...

wish I could help.
Do you think my gear box is broken? Or should I write Transmission instead?

Last edited by edwardpayne; Jun 17, 2008 at 03:16 AM.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by racebum
glowing manifolds usually indicate lean conditions. bad injectors, normally will trip a check engine via the 02. however, the one good bank may be fooling it by the time it gets to your center cat & the 02.
I was only aware of 1 o2 sensor that is located on the drivers side bank... no downstream o2 at all. did they add that on the 91 l98?

single wire systems dont do a whole bunch anyway. Especially if they are located in front of the cats
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ekess744
I was only aware of 1 o2 sensor that is located on the drivers side bank... no downstream o2 at all. did they add that on the 91 l98?

single wire systems dont do a whole bunch anyway. Especially if they are located in front of the cats
As far as I know it's only one O2 sensor on my 91.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:13 AM
  #34  
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Ohming the injectors only tells you about the injector coils health.....not wether their leaking or not! You definetly need to get yourself a fuel pressure guage. I think the 89s-91s had Multech injectors which seem more problematic than others. DO NOT use any injector cleaners if you're running Multechs....sure way to kill them!
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 01:52 PM
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use the vacuum gauge-they are inexpensive, and can tell you a lot of information.
Hook it up to the brake booster, as previously suggested. Note the reading at idle. Now bring it up to a constant 3000-3500 prm while in park. If, after 3-5 minutes at this rpm, the needle starts making its way toward zero you have a restricted exhaust system.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardpayne
BS? You got any other ideas? If so I'd love to hear them.

btw. My signature seems to be gone so I might add that I've got a 1991, Automatic.
Engine got hot, coolant temp vs spark advance table retarded timing slightly, trans got hot started slipping.. Lots of reasons.

-- Joe
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
Ohming the injectors only tells you about the injector coils health.....not wether their leaking or not! You definetly need to get yourself a fuel pressure guage. I think the 89s-91s had Multech injectors which seem more problematic than others. DO NOT use any injector cleaners if you're running Multechs....sure way to kill them!
I have heard of this. What exactly does the cleaner do to them out of curiousity?
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 06:33 PM
  #38  
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I separated the manifolds with the rest of the pipes, leaving just a small gap between them. Man! The power came back, it's revving to 5000rpm as i should and it changes the gear there and it's just growling. yeah!

Does this mean my exhaust pipes are clogged somewhere?

Thank you ALL for your help!
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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Sounds like the Cats are clogged.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 07:46 PM
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Sounds kind of like mine before I bought it from the previous owner. If you can, get new down pipes without the pre-cats, and then also get a new main cat. Cheaper than 3 new cats. But it will depend on your inspection requirements.
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