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My 1994 Vette has always started at the turn of the key. But yesterday I got into it and tried to start it and it would not start immediately. When I did get it started it acted like the engine was flooded and running in 7 cylnders but it wouldn't hold an idle. I could smell a lot of fuel. Is this an airflow problem and how can I check to see if it is the air intake flow body.
My 1994 Vette has always started at the turn of the key. But yesterday I got into it and tried to start it and it would not start immediately. When I did get it started it acted like the engine was flooded and running in 7 cylnders but it wouldn't hold an idle. I could smell a lot of fuel. Is this an airflow problem and how can I check to see if it is the air intake flow body.
sounds more like multec injector failure. Typical symtoms of a leaky injector, dead injector or a stuck injector, does it clear up at all once its runnig?. Do an ohm check on the coils they all should be over 12ohms.
then check the fuel pressure in the rail after shutdown. Do the ohm check first and post the results.
BTW you have two threads going with the same question.. its going to be hard to follow.. have the one in general removed
Thank you for responding. Would a bad injectors (s) cause the car to smoke out the exhaust. It could be a bad injector. Don't know much about these cars, but if I'm going to own one, nows a good time to learn. The problem doesn't clear up when its running. When you check the ohms I take the cars needs to be idleing? Will have to buy an oh meter. I'm thinking it is probably a bad injector (s).
Thank you for responding. Would a bad injectors (s) cause the car to smoke out the exhaust. It could be a bad injector. Don't know much about these cars, but if I'm going to own one, nows a good time to learn. The problem doesn't clear up when its running. When you check the ohms I take the cars needs to be idleing? Will have to buy an oh meter. I'm thinking it is probably a bad injector (s).
injector coils are checked 1 at a time with the connection from the wire harness off. You want to check the injector coil itself to see if its shorted. 1st check them cold 1 at a time with an ohm meter acreoss the two terminals of the injector. Record this.. Then run the car to about 200 degrees and do again.. Engine always off on both tests. Post your results. As far as the smoke, What color is it?
Injectors read 12.8 -13.0 ohms on all, cold then hot. The smoke is blueish/black. Got to be something else.
what you did was eliminate the electrical side of the injector. Now you have to eliminate the mechanical side. Do you have a way to read fuel pressure?
No, I'd have to get a fuel pressure tester or gauage. What would be the procedure of testing the fuel pressure when I do get one?
its easy to do.. you hook it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
what you want to do is hook up the guage and start the car..record the reading. shut the car off, on the first sign of pressure drop record it and the time interval from shut down. Keep watching for drops in pressure and record this data. If the pressure holds steady for at least a half hour, record hourly readings. If after a period there are no drops I would venture to say its not your injectors or fuel pump. If you do get pressure drops rapidly, the next step is to isolate the leak. It could be the regulator and/or an injector.. Let us know.
I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I'm having near identical starting issues with my Dad's '93. Reassembled water pump last week after sitting for four years and the car fired up, ... died right before operating temp, and then fired up immediately. (That was the reason my Dad disassembled it in the first place.) Since that first day it has been real particular with its starting habits. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't. I was thinking Opti (which wasn't replaced), an ignition switch, or possibly the ignition mod.
Optispark ok? A leaky waterpump can foul the opti. I would check that. A failing optispark would cause the symptoms you are describing.
There are many items that can give those symtoms. However, when doing it yourself without the proper tools, you must eliminate the FREE stuff first. The fuel system including the injectors is one of those "free" things. Follow some simple steps and eliminate all the posibilaties 1 by 1. Otherwise you will be throwing in parts, and spending alot of money. It might be as simple as a temp sensor. Or it might be the opti.Or it might be injectors. Might be an 02.. SO, my point is to narrow it down by knowing what it is'nt.
Well I appreciate all your help. Got fuel pressure tester, hooked it up and started the car. Fuel pressure hit about 40-45 psi and went to 0 the moment I turned off the engine. What would you say now?
Well I appreciate all your help. Got fuel pressure tester, hooked it up and started the car. Fuel pressure hit about 40-45 psi and went to 0 the moment I turned off the engine. What would you say now?
Now i would clamp off the return line back to the tank from the regulator and check fuel pressure bleed again. if it holds its the regulator, if it don't its time for injectors. But, before you buy injectors you have to make sure the pressure is not being released back in the fuel pump.. I think there is a pulsator in your car. Someone else can comment on that for sure.
I'll be honest with you, I crawled under the car and reach up as far as I could reach and it's metal pipe. If there is any rubber from the pipe to tank it's in an inaccessible area I can't reach or see. Don't don;t know what else to do excpect gamble on the regulator being bad. But you've been right so far about a lot and any suggestion you have I'm willing to try first.
another suggestion but you need a helper.. on a LT1 you can lift the rails up buy removing the fuel rail bolts. remove the injectors from the manifold, get a couple of pans to put under the injectors. . make sure the clips are secure holding them in the rail. have someone turn the key to pressurize the rail. If an injector is leaking you will see it immediatlly. if no injector is leaking, change the regulator. Have a fire extinguisher handy and don't keep a drop light near the car.
It's tubing from where the braided hoses end all the way back to the tank if that makes more sense.
just checked.. no rubber just braided hose.. if you don't wan't to pull the rails. it won't hurt to get a new regulator. If you need injectors I would suggest to change the reg anyway, But lifting the injectors off the manifold will tell you if you have a bad injector, and its real easy.