L98 Water Pump
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,309
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From: Canada
L98 Water Pump
I was just searching Edlebrock's sight - is there such a beast as a "high flow water pump" for the L98's? For those of you who may have upgraded from the stock GM water pump - what kind and what's your opinion of it?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 8,183
Likes: 3
From: Santa Maria, CA
Re: L98 Water Pump (Trixie*)
Look into a brand called Flowkooler. I think Scorp is using one. I recall him saying good things about it. They have a disc behind the impeller that really makes it more efficient and flows more gph. Matter of fact, the company is like 30 miles away from me.
BTW, when I lost my pump at around 80,000 miles, I didn't do my homework and put another stock GM :(
Goodluck
BTW, when I lost my pump at around 80,000 miles, I didn't do my homework and put another stock GM :(
Goodluck
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: L98 Water Pump (Trixie*)
Another good waterpump is made by Stewart. They claim double the flow compared to OEM pumps and also claim higher flow and lower hp than Edelbrock. They cost $75. check their site at http://www.stewartcomponents.com . They answer a lot of water pump and cooling questions.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 1
From: Enter Post Count Here
Re: L98 Water Pump (Trixie*)
While I love upgrading things, waterpumps don't need it.
The factory pump flows just enough, without being too much. I originally heard that you don't want a high flow pump because you'll blow seals, well thats not true, at least I don't think so.
But the reason I stick with stock is because one of my friends with a ZZ454 put a high-flow edelbrock pump on it and it would not stay cool. After rooting out the radiator, replacing the thermostat, he replaced the water pump with stock and the difference was night and day. We finally decided the pump was flowing TOO much coolant and it wasn't in the radiator long enough to cool down.
It stayed perfectly cool.
If you want a high dollar pump instead of a $60 rebuild, I recommend a Metzler electric water pump.
Good luck. :)
[Modified by NoWorries, 11:16 PM 12/23/2001]
The factory pump flows just enough, without being too much. I originally heard that you don't want a high flow pump because you'll blow seals, well thats not true, at least I don't think so.
But the reason I stick with stock is because one of my friends with a ZZ454 put a high-flow edelbrock pump on it and it would not stay cool. After rooting out the radiator, replacing the thermostat, he replaced the water pump with stock and the difference was night and day. We finally decided the pump was flowing TOO much coolant and it wasn't in the radiator long enough to cool down.
It stayed perfectly cool.
If you want a high dollar pump instead of a $60 rebuild, I recommend a Metzler electric water pump.
Good luck. :)
[Modified by NoWorries, 11:16 PM 12/23/2001]
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 3
From: Lafayette IN
Re: L98 Water Pump (jfb)
They cost $75. check their site at
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: L98 Water Pump (NoWorries)
NoWorries,
Increased coolant flow does not decrease cooling capacity. Increased coolant flow INCREASES your systems capacity to get rid of heat. How much time coolant spends anywhere in the cooling system doesn't mean squat!! The important factor is the rate of heat generation in the block and the rate of heat removal in the radiator. If your friend had overheating with his Edelbrock water pump, then something was wrong with the water pump. The faster the coolant flows, the faster it can carry heat away from the block, just as the faster air flows through the radiator.
[Modified by jfb, 8:46 AM 12/24/2001]
Increased coolant flow does not decrease cooling capacity. Increased coolant flow INCREASES your systems capacity to get rid of heat. How much time coolant spends anywhere in the cooling system doesn't mean squat!! The important factor is the rate of heat generation in the block and the rate of heat removal in the radiator. If your friend had overheating with his Edelbrock water pump, then something was wrong with the water pump. The faster the coolant flows, the faster it can carry heat away from the block, just as the faster air flows through the radiator.
[Modified by jfb, 8:46 AM 12/24/2001]
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 2
From: Austin TX
Re: L98 Water Pump (jfb)
Increased coolant flow does not decrease cooling capacity.
Increased coolant flow INCREASES your systems capacity to get rid of heat. How much time coolant spends anywhere in the cooling system doesn't mean squat!!
If you're still running a thermostat (which everyone should on the street, but some people think removing it is the "smart" thing to do) then going to a higher flowing water pump does not make sense.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 1
Re: L98 Water Pump (Trixie*)
Trixie,
Autozone" I know I know!" carries a new heavy duty pump for the L98's that has different impellers and a anti cavitation plate.The price is 65.00.It really helped my Son's 383 along with plugging the water bypass hole on the passenger side of the block and drilling two.080 holes in the thermostat.
[Modified by mountainmotor, 10:10 AM 12/24/2001]
Autozone" I know I know!" carries a new heavy duty pump for the L98's that has different impellers and a anti cavitation plate.The price is 65.00.It really helped my Son's 383 along with plugging the water bypass hole on the passenger side of the block and drilling two.080 holes in the thermostat.
[Modified by mountainmotor, 10:10 AM 12/24/2001]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 46
From: Elizabeth City, NC
Re: L98 Water Pump (danno85)
I agree with Danno. I personally had this happen to me as well. I tried everything and i finally talked to a local race engine builder and he said the edelbrock was moving the water through the radiator too fast, thus not getting cooled off. I changed back to a stock pump all problems were gone. Funny how that works. If you think about it, it makes perfect sense.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 8,540
Likes: 1
From: And on the fifth day, subpoenas were served to Obama senior staff
Re: L98 Water Pump
I tend to agree with JFB on this one. This issue has been kicked around quite a bit on the forums and by the manufacturers.
The general retort by the high flow manufacturers focuses around cavatation issues involving localized low pressure areas caused by the high flow pump. This leads to an apparant loss of cooling effectiveness. However when run at the proper pressures and AF mixes the cavatation stops and the cooling effectiveness is increased vs. the standard flow pump.
Just as more air flow through the radiator increases cooling, so does greater coolant flow through the radiator and engine. Now how much HP this higher flow takes vs. cooling gained is another factor.
Pete
The general retort by the high flow manufacturers focuses around cavatation issues involving localized low pressure areas caused by the high flow pump. This leads to an apparant loss of cooling effectiveness. However when run at the proper pressures and AF mixes the cavatation stops and the cooling effectiveness is increased vs. the standard flow pump.
Just as more air flow through the radiator increases cooling, so does greater coolant flow through the radiator and engine. Now how much HP this higher flow takes vs. cooling gained is another factor.
Pete
Le Mans Master
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Re: L98 Water Pump (danno85)
Danno is correct.
Increasing coolant flow can in some instances cause overheating. I've seen this many times before and not just on cars. Everything must be matched for proper heat transfer, this includes how long the coolant stays in the heat exchanger. In this case the radiator. The hot coolant needs time to release heat in the radiator. As an example, at work (a 400bed hospital) we have a very large cooling (A/C) system. We can have a unit on line and things work perfectly, we can start an additional chilled water pump which increases the volume and to a degree, the pressure in the chilled water loop, but ALL the rooms heat up and the chiller drops in amperage (or load if you will). This is beacause the cooling water has no time to remove any heat or release any heat it does pick up at the chiller itself. I know, its not a car but the same theory applies.
Someone else mentioned cavitation. If you run the proper mixture of AF with a stock pump and dont overheat it shouldnt be a problem but cavitation is death to any pump.
Just my $.02
Increasing coolant flow can in some instances cause overheating. I've seen this many times before and not just on cars. Everything must be matched for proper heat transfer, this includes how long the coolant stays in the heat exchanger. In this case the radiator. The hot coolant needs time to release heat in the radiator. As an example, at work (a 400bed hospital) we have a very large cooling (A/C) system. We can have a unit on line and things work perfectly, we can start an additional chilled water pump which increases the volume and to a degree, the pressure in the chilled water loop, but ALL the rooms heat up and the chiller drops in amperage (or load if you will). This is beacause the cooling water has no time to remove any heat or release any heat it does pick up at the chiller itself. I know, its not a car but the same theory applies.
Someone else mentioned cavitation. If you run the proper mixture of AF with a stock pump and dont overheat it shouldnt be a problem but cavitation is death to any pump.
Just my $.02
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