Refinish C4 rims Help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
Refinish C4 rims Help
I trying to RE finish a set of 85 C4 rims, I use Aircraft Stipper to Remove the Clear, Does anyone know how to Sand the rims to maintain the factory look. I know i will be using a clear By por 15?
Has anybody done this?
Has anybody done this?
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Binghamton NY
Rims
I had good results using an orbital sander with fine paper and steel wool for hard to get to areas. Did not have to use remover for the old clear, just sanded it off. The crappy clear I used on it the first time turned opaque. Sold them on ebay!
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
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From: North Bay Ontario
I did mine over the winter - sanded the old clear coat starting at 320 grit and progressing up to 2000. Then, my autobody friends put me on to some really good stuff called Autosol (made in Germany) and it polished the aluminum to a chrome-like finish. This is good stuff - comes in a tube. They also discouraged re-applying any clearcoat for the reasons you just described, plus they said that it is very difficult to keep it on there, with cracking/flaking/and discolouration in the not too distance future. Once polished, maintenance is not a big chore as a quick buff with the Autosol on a yearly basis is all that is needed.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: bristol
autosol is excellent. i have loads of it and it really makes a brilliant job on most metals. i bought my wheels up like mirrors, used a power mop and autosol. also used it around my engine bay. made the a/c pipes like mirrors too.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 126
From: Chandler Az
I belive he wanted to keep the factory look.
On my 89 I stripped mine and was fortunate that all I had to do was rub them with Mothers mag wheel cleaner. I masked off the wheel and painted the inner parts silver. Then the clear coat, I made a major mistake though...I powder coated them clear...the problem the Argent silver discolored some because of the heat needed to cure the powder. they look ok but the discolored silver looks aged.
On my 89 I stripped mine and was fortunate that all I had to do was rub them with Mothers mag wheel cleaner. I masked off the wheel and painted the inner parts silver. Then the clear coat, I made a major mistake though...I powder coated them clear...the problem the Argent silver discolored some because of the heat needed to cure the powder. they look ok but the discolored silver looks aged.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
Your Correct I kinda wanted to stay with the Factory look, I was hoping someone would have used the Por 15 Catalized Clear, I thought that the catalized would Indicate that it would stay on the rim and maintain the correct color? Does anyone Know what the catilized means?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
THis was the clear i was thinking about using. Has anyone used this stuff? http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=6
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: Wichita Kansas
I would think that "catalized" means it's a two part epoxy of some sort. Like Exopy based paints. Imron, etc. The paint is one part and the catalyst is the other. The catalyst makes it "kick off" like fiberglass resin. Just my thoughts. We use epoxy based paints on the boats. Many of the high quality paints today are that way. Very hard, essentially colored epoxy.
Last edited by c4sailor; Jun 18, 2008 at 03:10 AM.
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Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,817
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
I belive he wanted to keep the factory look.
On my 89 I stripped mine and was fortunate that all I had to do was rub them with Mothers mag wheel cleaner. I masked off the wheel and painted the inner parts silver. Then the clear coat, I made a major mistake though...I powder coated them clear...the problem the Argent silver discolored some because of the heat needed to cure the powder. they look ok but the discolored silver looks aged.
On my 89 I stripped mine and was fortunate that all I had to do was rub them with Mothers mag wheel cleaner. I masked off the wheel and painted the inner parts silver. Then the clear coat, I made a major mistake though...I powder coated them clear...the problem the Argent silver discolored some because of the heat needed to cure the powder. they look ok but the discolored silver looks aged.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,453
Likes: 346
From: SC
I did mine over the winter - sanded the old clear coat starting at 320 grit and progressing up to 2000. Then, my autobody friends put me on to some really good stuff called Autosol (made in Germany) and it polished the aluminum to a chrome-like finish. This is good stuff - comes in a tube. They also discouraged re-applying any clearcoat for the reasons you just described, plus they said that it is very difficult to keep it on there, with cracking/flaking/and discolouration in the not too distance future. Once polished, maintenance is not a big chore as a quick buff with the Autosol on a yearly basis is all that is needed.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
From: North Bay Ontario
The sanding does not cause any harm to the aluminum, but a cautionary note - if you look really close at the finish of your factory clear coated rims, you will see what appear to be very tiny circular ridges left behind when the rim was being machined. I believe this is the 'factory' look. Of course when you sand down past the clear coat (and if you are sanding, you will) then you begin to remove these little ridges. On the other hand, removing the machine ridges is also part of what gives a nice chrome like finish when the aluminum begins to buff up. Polishing my rims was one of last winter's projects and I'd say that on and off, I probably put about 15-20 hours into the project from start to finish.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
From: North Bay Ontario
I suppose if you used some kind of stripping agent to remove the deteriorated/damaged clear coat, you wouldn't need to do any sanding. The problem with the stripping agent is it will inevidably get onto the painted surfaces (centres and vents) and do the same thing there as it does on the clear coat. I think it might be difficult to find anyone that would re-machine the rims, but perhaps...
Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 545
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If the aluminum isn't pitted
Use any brand name water soluble stripper.
Two applications at least.
Take fine steel wool or sos pad to get into corners.
Rinse and clean / sos or steel wool the whole wheel.
Use a strong anti-grease agent (superclean / purple bottle ) works good.
Thoroughly dry (overnight)
Mask off the bulk of the wheel centre.
Warm the wheel before applying prime coat.
Thoroughly dry.
Warm the wheel
Apply finish coat (silver i presume)
Allow to get late stage tacky.
Apply clear coat (light dusting)
Thoroughly dry.
Warm the wheel
Apply final clearcoat(let tack and apply second coat and third).
Thoroughly dry.
Use fine steel wool or sos pad and or rag DAMP with laquer thinner to carefully take paint off polished surfaces.(watch those edges)
Fine steel wool circular with wheel to polish.
Mothers aluminum and lots of elbow grease.
Amazing results!!!!!!!!
Two applications at least.
Take fine steel wool or sos pad to get into corners.
Rinse and clean / sos or steel wool the whole wheel.
Use a strong anti-grease agent (superclean / purple bottle ) works good.
Thoroughly dry (overnight)
Mask off the bulk of the wheel centre.
Warm the wheel before applying prime coat.
Thoroughly dry.
Warm the wheel
Apply finish coat (silver i presume)
Allow to get late stage tacky.
Apply clear coat (light dusting)
Thoroughly dry.
Warm the wheel
Apply final clearcoat(let tack and apply second coat and third).
Thoroughly dry.
Use fine steel wool or sos pad and or rag DAMP with laquer thinner to carefully take paint off polished surfaces.(watch those edges)
Fine steel wool circular with wheel to polish.
Mothers aluminum and lots of elbow grease.
Amazing results!!!!!!!!
Last edited by kenmack; Jun 19, 2008 at 12:09 AM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: Wichita Kansas
The epoxy based paint I am most familiar with is Imron. It's a DuPont product. There are others. I think you could go to their web site and pull a spec sheet and find details about application and surfaces that they recommend it for. I know it's been used on metal, fiberglass and carbon based hulls. Your local auto paint store should also have a wealth of information on the subject specific to the automotive lines. FYI - we coat keels with the epoxy "barrier coats", some portion of the keels sit in the water even if the boat is on a lift so they are submerged in water for extended periods of time and subjected to the living creatures of the deep that attach to anything. That's why we use the epoxy - it stands up to the nasty little critters.
Another good source might be to contact the tech people at "Eastwood", their focus is automotive and I've found their tech people to be helpful. They will send you "spray outs" of samples of a particular product/color if you ask.
And, reading Kenmacks post, I think he has the procedure down!
Another good source might be to contact the tech people at "Eastwood", their focus is automotive and I've found their tech people to be helpful. They will send you "spray outs" of samples of a particular product/color if you ask.
And, reading Kenmacks post, I think he has the procedure down!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 99
From: Seattle WA
The trouble with aluminum is that within minutes of being exposed to air, a very thing layer of oxidation develops. This is why you would have trouble adhering paint and why attempts at clearcoating turn opaque. I believe the factory process was to machine the wheel, quickly anodize it and then apply the clear coat.
You could probably come close to the factory finish by using a chemical stripper to get the old clear coat off, quickly prep the surface with Alumaprep and Alodine (a chemical anodizing process used on aircraft - Google that for more info), and then re-applying clear coat. I haven't used this stuff on wheels, but I found it necessary to get paint to adhere to my aluminum boat outdrive.
P.S. - never use metallic abrasives (steel wool, wire wheels, etc.) - they will leave behind iron particles embedded in the softer aluminum, and you'll get galvanic corrosion and a nasty finish. always use synthetics on aluminum.
You could probably come close to the factory finish by using a chemical stripper to get the old clear coat off, quickly prep the surface with Alumaprep and Alodine (a chemical anodizing process used on aircraft - Google that for more info), and then re-applying clear coat. I haven't used this stuff on wheels, but I found it necessary to get paint to adhere to my aluminum boat outdrive.
P.S. - never use metallic abrasives (steel wool, wire wheels, etc.) - they will leave behind iron particles embedded in the softer aluminum, and you'll get galvanic corrosion and a nasty finish. always use synthetics on aluminum.
Last edited by 89onlyZ51; Jun 19, 2008 at 12:02 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Wheel repair specialist have duplicated this effect for refinishing wheels.
Any Chrome plater has a polishing shop (in the back), they can polish the rim to a shiny luster but the ridges will be gone.
If you want factory looks, you'll have to take the wheels into a (real) wheel repair shop and have them re-cut.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
http://www.wheel-repairs.com/
Not only will they repaint the black, resurface the face, re clear coat the whole thing......they will insure that the wheel is rolling true and all the wobble is taken out to a degree that far surpasses factory specs.
(Side note: you should see how crappy brand new factory alloys are on 99% of the cars, You put them on a machine that mounts the same as it does on your hub.......wobble wobble wobble)
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
The trouble with aluminum is that within minutes of being exposed to air, a very thing layer of oxidation develops. This is why you would have trouble adhering paint and why attempts at clearcoating turn opaque. I believe the factory process was to machine the wheel, quickly anodize it and then apply the clear coat..
Yes the Aluminum surface oxidizes immediately.
But now you are talking about surface treatment and Prep. There are techniques for first cleaning the surface (IPA baths etc.) and then organo Silanes used for adhesion to different types of surfaces
http://www.famastechnology.com/pdf/s...69d62e4465d086
These used to be sold under trade names such as "Bulldog"
The opaque in the clear is from cheap clear coat that breaks down under UV light. plus the fact that Clear has no pigment and is a poor barrier, oxygen leaches under it and oxidizes the Aluminum underneath.