I have to take off the "C" beam because when I switched over to the D44, I didn't notice that the old one had a couple of holes in it for the exhaust hanger. Now my exhaust is kinda low so I will have to take it off and drill the holes.

Anyone know of any tips, comments, advice, etc, etc?

Should I drive the rear up on ramps or the front?

I know that I should support the trans with a jack and take off the bolts for the "C" beam. Is it necessary to take off the DS? I just had the DS balanced so I think that I will mark where it sits so I can replace it the way it came off.

TIA

 

To remove my tranny I too had to remove the C-beam and driveshaft. I think it'll make the job much easier if you remove the driveshaft. To start, support the tranny. If I'm right, you have an auto as you replaced the D36 with a D44? Make sure when the car is up in the air you use the tranny gear selector (either at the transmission on the driver's side or with the shifter in the car if you feel safe enough to reach in) to shift it into neutral (you may not like jacking it up in neutral with only the parking brake on). Get the car high enough for you to work comfortably. Unfortunately, I needed to get the trans out so I jacked it up very high (2 ft).

After shifting into neutral, unbolt the 2 driveshaft straps and four 8mm head bolts connected to the yoke. To access the bolts either turn the wheels or the driveshaft until the bolts are easily accessible.

Then remove the 2 long bolts from the differential and the 2 long ones at the rear of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft by pushing it into the rear of the tranny - it does not require much force. The driveshaft will slip out and then the c-beam will too. The c-beam can be heavier than you expect if you've never held it in your hands before (and if you're on your back). Reinstallation is reverse of removal. Check out the recommended distance from the tunnel top and right side of the tunnel at http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm (scroll all the way down). Buy some plates if you have the money.

Good luck,

Jonathan

 

Yes I have an auto.

I think I will try to drill the holes first. Not sure why they weren't there in the first place on a stick car. Maybe they hook up at different places. They were drilled on the auto "C" beam

I will do this first and then later on I can remove it to do the plates.

 

This is the hanger that is just forward of the converter and the bolt passes through the right side of the c-beam and into the hanger? The hanger maybe has a strap that attaches to the bottom of it?
I've not used one in quite some time and I don't have or never had an '86 - '91 MY car so I don't know the clearance issue at this bracket BUT I've used some very "compact" right angle drill adapters. I wouldn't think the bolt could be any larger than 8mm so I'd consider a right angle adapter from a tool rental maybe and "shorten up a drill bit"!.
I just checked three c-beams I've got and none have a provision for the hanger I just described or best of recollection is on the L98 cars. One has four holes 6-8" or so rearward of the trans mounting bolts in both the top and bottom of the c-beam maybe on 2" centers. If these are the ones you're referring to it looks like it's time for the c-beam to come out or if you're real talented and can maneuver the drive shaft out with the beam in the car you might pull it off! I've heard people mention they've done it, I haven't!

 

Here's my '91 auto vert c-beam, hanger pics. Click to make pictures larger. If you need any bolt specs (length, thread, grade) just PM me and I'll measure them with my plastic bolt measurer.

1.
In this photo you can see the bracket that is attached via two bolts to the C-beam. It attaches to the rubber mount pictured in #3 which attaches to the hanger welded to the exhaust in #4 (note that the pic in #4 is from a Corsa exhaust and not a stock exhaust).

2.
Here is the opposite side of the c-beam.

3.
The rubber mount.

4.
The exhaust hanger on the exhaust. NOT a stock exhaust (Corsa).

5.
The transmission extension housing. The two holes in the lower right corner are affixed to the cat. heat shield/hanger in pictures 6 and 7 via two bolts.

6.
The cat. heat shield/exhaust hanger.

7.
Another picture of the hanger/heat shield. Note that the two bolts in the hanger are attached with two SQUARE nuts. I broke off the right bolt because I was not aware of it. Use a screw driver and wedge it in between the outer heat shield and the square nut. All of this is tough to see from below!

Good luck and hope this clarifies something,

Jonathan

 

That is what I am trying to achieve. I just don't know why the D44 C-beam doesn't have those holes drilled in it

 

Glad to help. Do you still have the rubber mount? If not I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to make one. I can get you the dimensions for that too if needed.

Jonathan

 

Thanx but no thanx. I have 3 of those rubber mounts. Those dimensions might come in handy for someone else.

 

Any idea why my D44 beam doesn't have it? I would assume that even manual cars have that hanger.

 

Exhaust hanger rubber mount dimensions (so searching is easier).
Click to make pic larger...



I hope someone someday gets some use out of that 5 minutes of my life ,

Jonathan

 

Position the driveshaft is installed has no effect on balance.
C beam can be removed with DS in place .
My '87 with D44 had exh hanger.