C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Technical name for the four dogbones?

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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:27 PM
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Default Re: Technical name for the four dogbones? (scorp508)

Well, my rear end is dancing on me when I get on/off the gas at all. These are suspected, but I've been too lazy to pull the wheels off in the cold and/or rain.

If possible, I'd rather just rebuild them with some poly bushings.
Scorp, when you say "dancing around" do you mean like torque steer or rear wheel hop? If it is like a torque steer from the rear, replacing the tie rod ends and center link cured it for me after just about everything else was changed out.....
:cheers:
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:36 PM
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Default Re: (Matt Black)

....think about upgrading your rear shocks.
All 4 bilsteins were replaced approximately 2 years ago by the previous owner. Car handles great (normally ;))

MCPOWHITE96,

It is torque steer. I was informed to check out those out also, I am pulling the tires tomorrow to make damn sure I know what needs to be replaced instead of just buying parts for the sake of it. :)

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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:38 PM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

scorp - you sound like a canidate for those beam plates... there is another thread about those floating around here somewhere...
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:40 PM
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So we're looking at either replacing 7, or the bushings in 2/3. :)

Do the tie rods/centerlink come as one unit? Anyone have part #s handy. :D
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:42 PM
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scorp - you sound like a canidate for those beam plates... there is another thread about those floating around here somewhere...
From a stop or roll I can nail the throttle in 1st or 2nd and she'll spin straight down the road as always. It isn't until you are already moving and you just get on/off the gas that you notice this. I thought about those at first also, but started diagnosing it more in my mind (and here).
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:48 PM
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So maybe just two of these suckers....



...for $50 each. I know I had to bang pretty hard on the left tie rod end to release it when doing my u-joints. I wonder if the fork I used messed it up somehow.

Now where can i find a center link......


[Modified by scorp508, 12:48 PM 12/28/2001]
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 01:51 PM
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TLD sells the Tie Rod assembly w/o Ends for $107. Yet they sell the ends for $79 each. Or togehter they are $277.

Ecklers sells "Tie Rod,Rr Axle Otr,84-91" for $97.99. That must be the whole thing minus the ends. Then their ends are $49.99.
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 02:16 PM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

scorp, I will bet you cash money its the tie rod ends. Check them out by trying the 3:00/9:00 wiggle on your rear wheel. You will get some movement if bad.

I got mine from Jeff Kopp for less than the amount you posted. I think they were evn less than the $49 price you posted..... his number:800-728-8267
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 02:20 PM
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Default Re: (MCPOWHITE96)

scorp, I will bet you cash money its the tie rod ends. Check them out by trying the 3:00/9:00 wiggle on your rear wheel. You will get some movement if bad.
Makes perfectly good sense. With 156k miles, it is probably time anyways. :) I'll call up Jeff, I get stuff from him all the time. Thanks.
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 03:36 PM
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So, how hard/easy are the ends to replace? :)
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 04:47 PM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

Scorp, save your money and don't buy the dogbones (or what ever you want to call them), Tim has nailed the problem. My 92 Coupe exhibited the same symptoms, and since then at least 6 or 8 others on the Forum have had the same problem. Want to verify it? Do the following.

Jack up rear of car. Leave wheels on.
Grasp tires at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position.
Rock tire from side to side.
If there is any play whatsoever, then it is the rear toe link.

Get someone to do it for you while you lay under the car and watch the heim ends. Mine was so shot that I got roughly 1/8" play on the passenger side.

You can replace only the bad one, or both ~ but I recommend both. Give Jeff a call.

Purp
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 04:52 PM
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Default Re: (PurpleC4)

You can replace only the bad one, or both ~ but I recommend both. Give Jeff a call.
The order has already been placed. :)
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 05:30 PM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

scorp, REAL easy to replace. can be done with/without wheels on car. without was easier. easiest/best way to maintain a decent alignment is to wrap some electrical tape around the threaded rod prior to removal of the old ones, then just thread on the new ones until they butt up to the tape. Tighten them down with the lock nut and drive off to the alignment shop.
I actually aligned my rear in my garage with a plumb-bob and a long straight pole. worked like a champ and 4 months later I had the alignment checked and was within specs.....

Took all of about 20 minutes. :cheers:
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Old Dec 28, 2001 | 11:51 PM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

Scorp, the toe rod ends will cure your problem. IF you or anyone else wants a set of all aluminum dog bones (with poly bushings already installed) let me know. I'll make someone a deal on the ones I took off my car when I made up the Heim jointed trailing arms.
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Old Jan 16, 2002 | 01:34 PM
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Default Re: (Matt Black)

I'd like to replace my control arm bushings too... Instead of pressing them out can't they be melted out with a propane torch? I got the a-arm bushings out from my 78 this way. It was stinky, but at least i didn't risk bending them.

Also, are rubber replacements an option? I know the urethane ones slip in, if you want rubber this means you have to buy the whole control arms?

thx-

Jim-K
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Old Jan 16, 2002 | 01:40 PM
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Default Re: (Jim-K)

I dont know/couldnt find anyone who sells replacement rubber bushings for the trailing arms. Yes, you can burn/melt the old ones out with a propane torch. I did the same thing with MY '78. Then you can press/slip in the new urethane bushings. Far as I can tell, if you want rubber, you buy new/used trailing arms.
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Old Jan 16, 2002 | 02:01 PM
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Default Re: (MCPOWHITE96)

Darn :( Well i guess urethane it's gonna be. Thanks.

Jim-K
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