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[QUOTE=ross.rosseland;1566133198]It's not much to look at. I did the Joby mod using the stock HSR plenum. I have Edelbrock tall aluminum valve covers that I had to cut one corner off of to clear the ww motor. Stock hood. I cut and rewelded the thermostat housing and then deleted the TB water routing system to get that to all fit. I put set screws in the 4 holes in the top of the plenum and then drilled some holes in the sides for the PCV ports. Keep in mind it's a work in progress. I need some real fuel lines and I need to mount the coil properly. But it's getting there. It's a never ending project as I don't have a ton of time to work on it.
The regulator that came with the fuel rails on mine took a **** already. Couldn't get the pressure above 42. I ended up totally removing the adjustment screw so the fuel just flows freely thorugh the regulator, then I installed an aftermarket Aeromotive regulator. The car seemed fine and held pressure at idle but on the dyno we found out that the pressure dropped to about 25 at WOT. Air fuel ratio went to 16 before we shut it down. I'd been spraying nitrous for a couple of weeks before this dyno session! Point is, be careful with that regulator, it could kill your motor. I was amazed that there was a problem as the car seemed fine. New regulator solved the problem.
It's not much to look at. I did the Joby mod using the stock HSR plenum. I have Edelbrock tall aluminum valve covers that I had to cut one corner off of to clear the ww motor. Stock hood. I cut and rewelded the thermostat housing and then deleted the TB water routing system to get that to all fit. I put set screws in the 4 holes in the top of the plenum and then drilled some holes in the sides for the PCV ports. Keep in mind it's a work in progress. I need some real fuel lines and I need to mount the coil properly. But it's getting there. It's a never ending project as I don't have a ton of time to work on it.
Looks good!
Yes, that looks good. They are all a working progress, don't worry about that. I had tons of time this winter and mine is still a working progress. You could work on it for a month straight and in 3 weeks it will be a working progress again!
you said: " My converter more or less stalls to 4300 at WOT so I'm always in the powerband! "
So, you havent dyno numbers numbers under 4300 rpm?
I'm in your same boat. When I do WOT, I'm at 4000/4200 rpm. It downshift or it stall at 4200 rpm...
If I go to test on the Dyno I'll end with numbers only from 4000 and up?
The only way to test numbers UNDER 4000 is to lock the TC with a switch?
thanks
-Beppe-
My converter is a 2800 stall, which basically means it begins to push the car forward at about 2800 when I hold the brake as hard as I can and start giving it the gas. When I launch the car it prettymuch jumps straight to about 4300. When dynoing, we took it to a point in 3rd gear in which it wouldn't backshift to 2nd, then floored it. In getting up to that point I was only at part throttle. The converter locked on the way up to that point and it didn't feel like it unlocked after flooring it. I once did the dyno in 2nd gear (just to test fuel pressure) and when I floored it the tach instantly jumped to about 4300. It seems as though once the converter is locked and the trans is in 3rd that it doesn't unlock when floored. Not sure tho. I do have the dyno graph starting at about 3300, but when I hit nitrous the graph goes north so fast you really can't tell what the converter did by looking at the graph. At 3300 rpms when I floored it, it was about 125 rwhp and about 200 rwtq. Then, at about 4300 rpms it's at about 340 rwhp and 419 rwtq. As you can see, with the spray, it goes up fast.
I have another run where I didn't spray till 4500 rpms. Because of spraying late it didn't hit the peak torque till 4900 rpms but oddly enough it still peaked at about 419 rwtq. On that graph there is one peak at about 4000 rpms (N/A), then another at 4900. No matter what, the horsepower peak is always right around 5600 rpms.
I guess a way to test it would be to normal drive up to about 3200 or so on the tach, or whatever point it won't downshift to 2nd, then floor it and see if the converter unlocks. I'll have to try it next time I have the 'vette out but I'm pretty sure the converter doesn't unlock for WOT once you are in 3rd and it is locked. Give it a try and see.
thanks, I will, that looks like a good upgraded piece, from my modded tpis/lt4 part.
Damm, had I known about that I'd have bought one too. I mounted an Aeromotive to my A/C bracket and tied into my braided steel lines. I didn't want to buy another junk Holley and thought that was the only option to fill the hole in the fuel rail that the Holley uses. Maybe in the future I'll go to that.