C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake lines to calipers

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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 08:19 PM
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Default Brake lines to calipers

I'm changing my brake lines to braided steel and from what the FSM says, I should lubricate the threads with brake fluid when I reassemble, so NO thread locker (blue) on any of the parts??
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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I would, but that's just my opinion.

RK
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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No Loctite required.
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnyH
I'm changing my brake lines to braided steel and from what the FSM says, I should lubricate the threads with brake fluid when I reassemble, so NO thread locker (blue) on any of the parts??
Don't forget some good disposable gloves! Skin exposure to brake fluid with ethylene glycol (chemical also found in antifreeze) has been known to cause renal failure (don't know the level of exposure required to experience those effects, but why take a chance?)

Good luck,

Jonathan
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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The coin landed on its edge!

John
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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The biggest thing is to make sure the male threads are clean as well as the female threads on the hard lines. You can put some brake fluid on the threads, but it isn't really necessary. Don't use loctite or anything like thread sealant or teflon tape.

Make sure you use a "line wrench" when loosening or tightening the line connections. The hex head on the line is easy to round off and then you wind up having to use vise-grips. If the fittings look rusty or the old line doesn't want to unscrew, use some penetrant like PB Blaster to help free the connection.

I also prefer to use copper crush washers on the banjo fitting on the caliper side. Some of the ss brake line kits come with aluminum washers and I would just toss those.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:34 AM
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Teflon tape is ok to use on the bleeder screws though. When the bleeders are closed, the threads aren't what's keeping the fluid in the calipers. When the bleeders are opened for bleeding, the tape can help keep air out of the system. This is more of an issue where the bleeder screws have corroded a bit and been cleaned than with new bleeder screws. Speed bleeders come with a thread locking goo on them and they sell replacement goo for when that wears off but teflon tape works just as well.

I'm just adding to what C4Cruiser wrote not disputing it at all.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Thanks for the information and advice!

John
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
The biggest thing is to make sure the male threads are clean as well as the female threads on the hard lines. You can put some brake fluid on the threads, but it isn't really necessary. Don't use loctite or anything like thread sealant or teflon tape.

Make sure you use a "line wrench" when loosening or tightening the line connections. The hex head on the line is easy to round off and then you wind up having to use vise-grips. If the fittings look rusty or the old line doesn't want to unscrew, use some penetrant like PB Blaster to help free the connection.

I also prefer to use copper crush washers on the banjo fitting on the caliper side. Some of the ss brake line kits come with aluminum washers and I would just toss those.
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