thanks to agent 86 I think I found my cooling fan prob. now how do I repair it do i add a new link 15 or 20 amp?

It is broke at fuseable link

Thanks for all the help
STW

 

There should be a number on the fuseable link. Check the back part for the number.

 

It does not look burnt. Can you just strip it back and solder it together ??

 

Isn't a soldering gun too hot for a fusible link? I'd prob test the continuity of the fusible link, and if still good then try to crimp it... but I'm not an expert

 

The image appears to indicate that the wire has separated flush at
the backside of the OEM fusible link. If this is the case then my vote
is that the existing wire & link can not be reconnected.

The OEM link is known as a Hypalon fusible link - named after the DuPont
material used for the housing. To the best of my knowledge, new
replacements have not been available for a number of years.

For originality, one option is to source a used segment of harness
containing a good OEM Hypalon link. Jason at forum vendor Vette2Vette
could probably help out here. The section appears to have a single
-pin Weatherpack connector at one end. Depending on how far it is to
the other end of the section of this conductor and whether there are
any branches for other circuits, it might be feasible to replace the
entire length leaving no trace of the repair. Alternatively, get as much
length as possible and splice where the repair will not be readily visible.
The splice could consist of a crimped & soldered butt-joint connector
with a length of shrink tubing for protection. Or semi-OEM look could
be achieved by using an additional Weatherpack male & female connector.

If originality is unimportant, a repair can be made with a section of
fusible wire material from NAPA or some other auto parts house. This
is wire that is physically sized 4 gauges smaller than the gauge it is
sold as and which has a jacket insulation of cross-linked polyethylene
in part because the higher melting temperature helps keep the 'hot'
end of a blown link from contacting adjacent grounded parts.

There is further info about fusible links here.
Also, post #10 in the link above touches on the differences between
fusible links, fuses and circuit breakers. A fuse holder could be spliced
into the harness instead of a section of fusible link wire but then there
is the possibility that momentary current draws may cause the fuse
to blow. If the response to this is to increase the fuse capacity, then
a point may come when the fuse is too large to protect the harness
from an extended high current 'event'.

.

 

No more so than for wire of the physical size used in the link.

A fusible link consists of stranded copper wire which is four gauges
smaller than the wire that the link is intended to protect. For instance,
a section of FL for use with 18 AWG wire will physically measure as 22 ga.
Wire can be overheated while soldering, but if appropriate temperatures are
used for the physical gauge in question then there should be no difficulty.

The fusible link is a sacrifical segment of the wiring harness that is
intended to fail in a 'slow blow' manner in the event of a direct short to
ground somewhere in the circuit.

.

 

Can you jumper the fan to get it to run? I don't know if what you have is from a blown link or not but before you spend a lot of time and money to replace (or repair) the fusible link ... I'd want to know if the fan is OK.

It would suckoth mightily if the fan is bad or going bad and to blow a fresh link that was so difficulty sourced.

 

fan is fine I just put a 20amp fuse in line and spliced and heat shrunk seems fine so far.

thanks for all the help

STW