When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finally got some time to work on the car. Here are some new details.
I changed the plugs again, AC delco's. Gapped to .060.
I changed the fuel filter.
The car ran pretty well for about 10 miles, then back to the same old story. It runs like solid waste again.
One thing I have added to my consideration: I got gas before I went to get the new tires put on. I'm now concerned I could be using bad gas. The other thing I am considering is an injector issue, although I did probe them all with a stethascope and heard no differences. I read something about checking the impedance of them, maybe that will tell me something?
Any idea how I can check the gas besides draining it all and putting new gas in?
What's the fluid on the body underpanel (and on the exhaust clamp bolt too)? You spill something behind the driver's seat? Probably not related, but ya' never know...
I'm 100% positive it ran great when it went in for tires. The way it's running now would have been impossible not to notice. The fluid looks to be from the tranny, I'll resolve that soon enough.
I took the old plugs back and the guy at the counter asked how long I drove on those and I told him 300 miles. He seemed to think they looked very very bad and indicated a very rich condition. He also liked my theory on bad gas. He suggested a Fuel Pressure Regulator, but said it looked like it wasn't a separate unit on the car.
I dumped a bottle of Heet in it as well as Lucas fuel treatment. I guess I will let that sit overnight and see if it helps at all.
I'm 100% positive it ran great when it went in for tires. The way it's running now would have been impossible not to notice. The fluid looks to be from the tranny, I'll resolve that soon enough.
I took the old plugs back and the guy at the counter asked how long I drove on those and I told him 300 miles. He seemed to think they looked very very bad and indicated a very rich condition. He also liked my theory on bad gas. He suggested a Fuel Pressure Regulator, but said it looked like it wasn't a separate unit on the car.
I dumped a bottle of Heet in it as well as Lucas fuel treatment. I guess I will let that sit overnight and see if it helps at all.
First thing is the days of the guy at the parts counter being a reliable tech are gone. Unless you know him personally I would not believe much of what they have to say. If they were good techs they would not be making $8 an hour.Good luck with the gas treatment. Are you sure the plugs were gapped correctly? Do you have a Pic of them we can diagnose a plug by looking at it here and I bet you get more reliable data here too. Oh and by the way the FPR is a seperate unit that shows it so in the parts catalogue at the store( so much for what he knows) but I doubt that is your problem.
When you did the pump did you spill and fluid on the opti? They do not always fail immediately after coolant hits them but after some heat cycles that evaporate the coolant inside and then condenses on the optics they start getting flakey.Did you spill any near the coil wire? Try starting the car in a dark garage and with a spray bottle mist around the wires looking for arcs.
Are you sure you have no stored codes? Are you sure the O2s are good? I have seen bad O2's out of the box that did not give a code because they worked just not right.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Jul 15, 2008 at 09:53 PM.
I'm sure coolant hit the opti at some point. I don't think it was much though, since I drained it pretty well. Surely if it was the opti, the car wouldn't start right up would it?
The only stored code was the H62. I have no idea if the O2's are good, how do I check them?
I'm sure coolant hit the opti at some point. I don't think it was much though, since I drained it pretty well. Surely if it was the opti, the car wouldn't start right up would it?
Maybe maybe not there is no set diagnostic for a dying opti they do all kinds of weird things till they toss a code and give up the ghost including running good sometimes. Same thing with the ICM. I suspect it is one of those 2 things. The ICM can be tested but ensure you put it back togther with heat sink paste and make sure the place that tests it leaves it on till it heats up.I have said it before but sometimes it is better for a car to go ahead and croak than to have an intermittant problem. They are very hard to diagnose.
Originally Posted by Chad McCan
The only stored code was the H62. I have no idea if the O2's are good, how do I check them?
Well that is not a good history code to have either the oil temp sensor was/is bad or it got awfully hot. The only way to check O2's I know of is with a laptop scan as mentioned above. You can see what it reads and look at the BLMs (fuel tables)and see if they are running rich.
Do you have to buy the software if you use linux/UNIX operating systems? What OS do you use - Windows?
Don't know about linux/unix, you'd have to contact TTS and ask them. Datamaster runs on Windows 98, 2000, or XP... looked like the install for XP was the easiest, so I went with that OS. Installation was a breeze.
You might try using the schrader valve on the fuel rail and get a sample of the fuel. You will be able to tell if there is water at that point if there is alot of water in the tank. You can also pull the fuel rail and remove some of the injectors and get your sample there. Before you do the latter, release the pressure at the schrader valve. Good luck and hope you find the problem.
Don't know about linux/unix, you'd have to contact TTS and ask them. Datamaster runs on Windows 98, 2000, or XP... looked like the install for XP was the easiest, so I went with that OS. Installation was a breeze.
Do you have any friends/neighbors who have Linux OS? See if you can get a friend to plug the hardwire into a Linux pc and get a read.
Linux will 'mount' most all devices and then you need only to know which 'files' to look at, and the Linux application that will 'play' the file. Sort of like Windows Media Player playing a music file.
That's how Linux mounts your satellite receiver to download movies.
how many ways do we have to say it? Never never never leave your car to be worked on without being present at all times!!!!!!!!
Someone took your car out and found out how much power it HAD.
That is a factory dimple on the exhaust. It's really for the verts as the X-frame crosses the exhaust right there. GoodYear didn't do that. Maybe they road tested it and something went wrong. How's your opti-spark? Mine crapped out around 40 k.
Yeah, we have already determined it's not the dent causing the problem.
I was at the shop the entire time, so they didn't take it out to test anything. As for the opti, I have no idea how to tell if it's the culprit, no one seems to know how to test it except replace it and see if that fixes it. I hate those kind of solutions, especially when we are talking about a $500 part.
I watched under the hood with the lights off and didn't see any arc's from the plug wires anywhere.
I'm beginning to think bad gas would be the only thing to make it run so wrong without throwing a code.
Last edited by Chad McCan; Jul 17, 2008 at 08:02 PM.
Yeah, we have already determined it's not the dent causing the problem.
I was at the shop the entire time, so they didn't take it out to test anything. As for the opti, I have no idea how to tell if it's the culprit, no one seems to know how to test it except replace it and see if that fixes it. I hate those kind of solutions, especially when we are talking about a $500 part.
I watched under the hood with the lights off and didn't see any arc's from the plug wires anywhere.
I'm beginning to think bad gas would be the only thing to make it run so wrong without throwing a code.
Start at the beginning.
Air, fuel, fire.
Air filter OK?
Fuel - do a pressure test. Static, idle with vacuum attached to FPR, idle with vacuum off of FPR, and pedal down (guage on long length of hose, taped to windshield.
Fire - Check wire to plug connections, wire to opti connections, visual, if one cylinder is missing, then a Goodyear guy stole it.
If one cylinder seems missing, pull the plug wire, and see if it's runnin' worse. If it is, that one is good, go on to the next cylinder.
Did we ask about a loping idle??? Is it a steady idle? Or up and down rev's?
For the sake of maybe helping someone else, my problem is solved. I tried it all and it came down to a driver side plug wire that was nearly cut in half due to rubbing on the belt somehow. I installed new plug wires today and the car runs as good as it did in 94. Thanks for all the help and out of the box thinking, but as usual, it's something simple turned complicated by me.