C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Water In Gas Tank

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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 12:01 AM
  #1  
white89ooo's Avatar
white89ooo
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Default Water In Gas Tank

Is there anything that would block a tube used to pump gas out of the tank? I have water in the tank (clogged drain) and I don't think I am getting all the way down to the bottom of the tank whey I try to pump the gas out. How long of a tube do I need to use to get to the bottom of the tank?
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:19 AM
  #2  
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Your best way is to remove the rubber gasket and then take out the fuel pump.Then you can get in there with some rags or paper towels and dry it out properly.If you ran it after you got water in it you need to change out the fuel filter.If I remember correctly one side of the tank is lower than the other and acts as a garbage trap.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by staugur
Your best way is to remove the rubber gasket and then take out the fuel pump.Then you can get in there with some rags or paper towels and dry it out properly.


quick/dirty way to drain the tank is to remove the core from the shraeder valve test port on the fuel rail...put a drain hose over the test port body and hose clamp in place, run loose end to waste jug...jump 12v into the "pump prime" terminal on the ALDL in the cockpit to run the pump till "nothing" more comes from drain hose...STOP THE PUMP AS SOON AS DISCHARGE FLOW CEASES, RUNNING DRY WILL FRY THE PUMP QUICKLY...dump in a gallon of new gas and waste/pump that thru the drain hose to remove traces of contaminant...done...do this outdoors, small amounts of gasoline vapor can easily ignite producing major damage/death.

Last edited by redrose; Jul 9, 2008 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 04:00 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by white89ooo
Is there anything that would block a tube used to pump gas
out of the tank?
Yes. There is a rectangular tray positioned lengthwise fore/aft under
the filler neck. My vote is that this tray is roughly 3-4" wide.



The outbound fuel supply tube extends down from the same stamped
plate that the filler neck is mounted in. The fuel level sending unit and
its float arm are attached midway down and the fuel pump is attached
at the bottom end of this tube. There is a sock-style filter on the
bottom of the pump that sits in the rectangular tray.



Originally Posted by white89ooo
I have water in the tank (clogged drain) and I don't think I am getting
all the way down to the bottom of the tank when I try to pump the gas
out. How long of a tube do I need to use to get to the bottom of the
tank?
The tank is not particularly deep - my vote is 16"-17" as measured down
from the mounting plate flange. The siphon tube needs to pass down
and to the passenger side to miss the pump and tray, the float arm
is on the driver's side of the filler neck. A semi-rigid plastic tubing might
be a better choice than conventional rubber hose - the hose may tend
to coil around on itself, lifting the hose end out above the fuel remaining
at the tank bottom.

Have you considered adding methyl hydrate, isopropyl alcohol or one of
the commercial 'dry-gas' products to the tank and letting this mix with
whatever moisture remains in the tank? The water combines with the
fuel and passes through.

Regarding water contamination and two-stroke engines, be aware of
the following comment from an old post:

Describe Experiences w/ Water-Contaminated Fuel
However, methyl-based additives can cause issues in two-strokes,
particularly if too much is added. Gold Eagle, bottlers of 'Heet'
specifically warn NOT to use 'HEET', a methyl-based product, in
two-cycle or diesel engines.

Isopropyl-based products such as 'ISO HEET' ARE suitable for two
strokes. Same with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol from the drug counter.
OTOH, rubbing alcohol is diluted. It has from 68 - 99% isopropyl
alcohol (as posted on the bottle) and the rest is water. Thus RA is
generally less capable of absorbing moisture from fuel than IA.
.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 09:17 PM
  #5  
white89ooo's Avatar
white89ooo
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Default Very Helpful. Thanks

Thank you all for the information. I have tried both cap and fuel rail options in the dark. Now with this new information I am sure the third attempt will be successful.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:03 PM
  #6  
Les 94 Comp Yellow's Avatar
Les 94 Comp Yellow
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From: Gainesville Florida
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Can anyone tell me if the rubber gasket is usually reuseable or is it unuseable after the neck is removed??
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:10 PM
  #7  
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Les 94 Comp Yellow
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From: Gainesville Florida
Default

Also.....Is the neck removeable from the gas door on the top or does the tank have to be dropped to remove the mechanism. Can you reack the electical connection without removing the tank. I am having the sending unit problems that are so common. I will try to clean the reostat before replacing it. I have nothing to lose by trying to disassemble it and clean the contact surface. I have heard others have had success doing that. Any help from someone that has done it would be appreciated.Thanks
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:11 PM
  #8  
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coupeguy2001
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From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Default gasket

1. If you have changed it recently, go ahead and try reusing it. If it leaks, you will have to do the job all over again.
2. If it is the original, change it. the real problem is the area under the gasket will rust a little and adhere itself to the gasket. when you pull it loose, it tears.
3. If it doesn't tear, it is probably compressed to it's limit, and should be replaced anyway.
4. anytime you open something up, change the gasket, it's only good practice.
The real reason we use gaskets is to make up for manufacturing deficiencies, and if you reuse the gasket, now that you moved it a few thousandths of and inch, it may not seal as some areas were probably compressed more than other deficient areas.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:23 PM
  #9  
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Les 94 Comp Yellow
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From: Gainesville Florida
Default

That all makes perfect sense, I certainly will have a new one to replace the one thaqt comes off. ANy body know about the other q's??
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