Water In Gas Tank
quick/dirty way to drain the tank is to remove the core from the shraeder valve test port on the fuel rail...put a drain hose over the test port body and hose clamp in place, run loose end to waste jug...jump 12v into the "pump prime" terminal on the ALDL in the cockpit to run the pump till "nothing" more comes from drain hose...STOP THE PUMP AS SOON AS DISCHARGE FLOW CEASES, RUNNING DRY WILL FRY THE PUMP QUICKLY...dump in a gallon of new gas and waste/pump that thru the drain hose to remove traces of contaminant...done...do this outdoors, small amounts of gasoline vapor can easily ignite producing major damage/death.
Last edited by redrose; Jul 9, 2008 at 11:17 AM.
the filler neck. My vote is that this tray is roughly 3-4" wide.

The outbound fuel supply tube extends down from the same stamped
plate that the filler neck is mounted in. The fuel level sending unit and
its float arm are attached midway down and the fuel pump is attached
at the bottom end of this tube. There is a sock-style filter on the
bottom of the pump that sits in the rectangular tray.

all the way down to the bottom of the tank when I try to pump the gas
out. How long of a tube do I need to use to get to the bottom of the
tank?
from the mounting plate flange. The siphon tube needs to pass down
and to the passenger side to miss the pump and tray, the float arm
is on the driver's side of the filler neck. A semi-rigid plastic tubing might
be a better choice than conventional rubber hose - the hose may tend
to coil around on itself, lifting the hose end out above the fuel remaining
at the tank bottom.
Have you considered adding methyl hydrate, isopropyl alcohol or one of
the commercial 'dry-gas' products to the tank and letting this mix with
whatever moisture remains in the tank? The water combines with the
fuel and passes through.
Regarding water contamination and two-stroke engines, be aware of
the following comment from an old post:
Describe Experiences w/ Water-Contaminated Fuel
particularly if too much is added. Gold Eagle, bottlers of 'Heet'
specifically warn NOT to use 'HEET', a methyl-based product, in
two-cycle or diesel engines.
Isopropyl-based products such as 'ISO HEET' ARE suitable for two
strokes. Same with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol from the drug counter.
OTOH, rubbing alcohol is diluted. It has from 68 - 99% isopropyl
alcohol (as posted on the bottle) and the rest is water. Thus RA is
generally less capable of absorbing moisture from fuel than IA.


2. If it is the original, change it. the real problem is the area under the gasket will rust a little and adhere itself to the gasket. when you pull it loose, it tears.
3. If it doesn't tear, it is probably compressed to it's limit, and should be replaced anyway.
4. anytime you open something up, change the gasket, it's only good practice.
The real reason we use gaskets is to make up for manufacturing deficiencies, and if you reuse the gasket, now that you moved it a few thousandths of and inch, it may not seal as some areas were probably compressed more than other deficient areas.
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