88 won't start
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: Lewisvlle NC
88 won't start
So heres my problem. 88 coupe 4+3 has never let me down. About a month ago it started popping and banging whenever I gave it any gas at all. It would start right up and idle perfectly,but as soon as I tried to back it out of the garage it would start backfiring thru the TPI and the exhaust. I decided to see how long it would sit there and idle before it stalled. It never did stall, even after 90 minutes at idle. So I tried to back it out once again and it quit running halfway out the door. Now it won't start at all. Turns over just fine. It is throwing no codes. Took the MAF off of my other 88 and put it on ,to no avail. Bought 2 MAF relays and replaced both of them. Still no go. Fuel pressure is 42 #. Have spark at all plugs, altho not sure how strong it is. It is blue and yellow intermittantly. Car has less than 2000 miles on the plugs, wires and cap. About 1200 on fuel pump and filter. It showed no sign of any problems before this happened. Help, I can't stand driving my 35th. Its automatic and I don't want to put a bunch of miles on her. Need to get back into a little power. Any ideas ?
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Langley British columbia
It sounds like a timing problem to me too, replacing the cam or timing chain is a fairly involved proceedure, although they might be the problem I'd rule out any problems with the distributor first. I,ve never had this problem but I wonder if the electronic advance on the distributor is working, it should be pretty easy check if it's not the problem then move on to the timing chain and cam. also what kind of condition is the TPS in?. Anyway hope this gives you a few ideas, good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Check the timing with a timing light. Pull the distributor cap and look inside to ensure that there are no carbon tracks. Look at the carbon button on the center of the distributor cap. Pull the rotor off and see if there are any carbon tracks through the rotor in the well below the center of the metal arm on the rotor. You should have nice blue snappy sparks at each plug wire that are easily 1/2 inch long. Sounds like you have a weak spark to me. Have your spark control module in the distributor checked at an auto parts store. You might have a weak spark coil and they aren't expensive and can be eliminated by replacement. Measure each plug wires resistance, they should be about 5000 ohms per foot. See if any plug wires are touching metal and replace any plug wire looms that are missing or broken. Plug wires touching metal can cause sparking at that point, that is what looms do, they keep plug wires off of metal. Turn off the underhood lights and at night, engine idling, look for sparks along each plug wire, there aren't supposed to be any.
Engine cold, pull a couple of spark plugs and look at their condition, new plugs won't hurt and they don't cost a lot.
Engine cold, pull a couple of spark plugs and look at their condition, new plugs won't hurt and they don't cost a lot.
Last edited by jfb; Jul 13, 2008 at 12:07 AM.
