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First drain the fluid and remove the pan, then drill a hole on the backside of the pan, not on the bottom where it can get ripped out if something kicks up and hits it.
Last part instal the sleeve and the backing nut, I sealed mine with an oil pug gasket from NAPA on the inside, then a small bead of "The Right Stuff" on the outside. No leaks, no runs, no problem
Is this a rebuild, add a drain plug or just a filter change? How long has it been in there? If its that new, why change it?
Either way, I would NOT put the same oil back in. Additives are to break things like buildup of sludge/metal particles loose and you are going to put the oil back in?
Good chance to change to Royal Purple and you don't need an additive and RP will mix fine with any old oil left in your cooling lines/inverter. The inverter holds a lot of oil and at $9-$10 a qt., you don't want to change the inverter oil unless you are replacing the inverter.
Remember, the Vette sits very low to the ground and a good chance you might drag the drain plug and break it off or bend the pan and ruin the tranny. Put it low enough to drain, its low enough to drag.
Last edited by Eddie & the Cruisers; Jul 16, 2008 at 11:40 PM.
Dang, I should have read your other post about changing the filter before I jumped in here making a **** of myself. I'd say, you (us) really DO need a drain plug in that pan.
If you would write a book on vette repairs/service, I'd buy a copy. Sooooooooo funny!
Last edited by Eddie & the Cruisers; Jul 17, 2008 at 01:14 AM.
Dang, I should have read your other post about changing the filter before I jumped in here making a **** of myself. I'd say, you (us) really DO need a drain plug in that pan.
If you would write a book on vette repairs/service, I'd buy a copy. Sooooooooo funny!
Yeah...my MISTAKES are funny alright. Cause I make plenty of 'em!:o
If you are going to put in a cheap drain plug, I would go to the parts store and buy a replacements oil drain plug then take the plug and the pan to a machine shop and have them install it the correct way with welds around the tapped support washer.
Sure you COULD get the cheap-o installed fine without leaks, but its going to look like crap and I'd say your chances of having a leak are more then 50-50. This is just me though. I would rather make sure it's right the first time. Call me crazy.
I installed a B&M drain plug in both my car's trans. About $5.00 at PepBoys. No welding required. No leaks in years. Botttom mounted for full drainage. Pretrudes less than 1 inch. I pulled the pan and drilled the hole with a step drill bit, which deburs the hole at the same time. I don't buy these horror stories.
If your car isn't lowered there should be plenty room on the bottom. I installed mine on the rear because it's drain plug/ATF temp sender at the same time.