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I just took my car in to the dealership for a brake job and got to thinking. If I ever had to replace my rotors I would like to get some cross drilled rotors to replace the factory ones with. I think they look cool and I'm sure that they are an improvement over the stock ones. My question is how does a shop cut a cross drilled rotor? Wouldn't the brake machine get hung up on all of the holes? :confused:
They look cool. Unless you are doing some hardcore road racing with lots of hard braking you will probably be hurting your braking ability. Each drilled hole is less surface area for the pads to sweep across.
No, they are not an improvement over stock one's....just the opposite.
Most Road Racers running stock brake configuration choose solid rotors. We have all tried drilled rotors "once". Drilled rotors crack at the holes and fail more quicky (sometimes lasting just one weekend event) and they usually get cracks during aggressive street driving. Either type will apply adequate braking force to engage the ABS when hot, so the outgassing benefits are negligible. Race brakes are designed entirely differently. The rotors are thicker and reinforced in key spots to allow drilling. This prevents the drilled holes from becoming weakened stress points.
I just got the call from the dealership......$440.00 before tax to have all four rotors cut with new pads :eek: The service writer told me that the pads alone for the front brakes cost over $100.00 is that true?
I hate being at the mercy of a mechanic but I don't have the tools or the place to do the work myself.
If you ever watched someone replace your pads, your face would turn a slight red color from your embarassment of not doing it yourself.
The hardest part is removing your wheels. Once the wheels are off, you pull a clip off the caliper pin, pull out the pin and the caliper comes right off. I upgraded my front calipers to GS calipers in about 30 minutes and you're just doing the pads....20 minute job for the fronts that's giving you 10 minutes to remove the wheels. (I don't have any impact tools.) The rear pads take the same amount of time.
I got GM OEM cross-drilled/slotted rotors and PBR pads from BAER. They are much beefier than the rotors I took off the car. Especially those 13" front rotors. Can't remember the cost for them but they weren't cheap. Give them a call and good luck.
That's rediculous. For that price, you can get 4 *new* rotors and all new pads, and do it yourself. There is no skill involved. My dyslexic dysfunctional blonde girlfriend, Suzy Rottencrotch, could do it herself...If she knew what work was...
If you are looking for something that looks better but with not much of a performance difference over stock just go with one of the cheaper slotted rotors. Generally you won't have the same longevity problems you will with cross drilled.
If you want to step up in performance you might check out something like the Eradispeed rotors. I believe their "cross-drilled" rotors are actually cast with the holes, so you aren't setting yourself up for the same stress fractures that plague traditional cross-drilled rotors.
For a cheaper performance upgrade you can just stick a good set of pads in there though.
Drilled rotors crack at the holes and fail more quicky (sometimes lasting just one weekend event) and they usually get cracks during aggressive street driving.
That must be why they come stock on Porsche cars right?
If you like the look, thats Ok. They will crack from drilled holes. You wont need them in street driving anyway. Yes factory 'drilled' are really cast. Porsche rotors are way more expensive than the Vette too. If you ever watch Nascar, youll never see drilled on them.
Nascar does not used cross drilled but many forms of racing do. It all depends. Nascar still uses Carbs for fuel management, not excatly the latest in technology.
I say if you want looks and don't drive too hard, cross drilled are Ok, if you auto-ex at all or drive very hard or both like me than stock rotors work well and will not crack.
When you find a 3300+ lb Porsche with a cast iron motor in the front with flimsy Chevy 2 piston calipers and skinny rotors and no brake cooling ducts, you let me know. The two cars are not comparable. Porsche rotors do not get as hot or work as hard. Due to the car's design, they are heavily biased toward the back. This allows the rear to share more of the braking load, so Porsche brake pads and rotors often last a season instead of a weekend. Porsches are designed to stop. Drilling a stock-type, overworked GM replacement or aftermarket rotor does not make it a race brake rotor, as explained by other's above. Rick
depends, if you only drive on the street turning a rotor isn't all that bad but if you use the brakes seriously and with some temp, you'll definatly want all the metal there you can get. everyone has there oppinion on drilled rotors, some people love em, some hate em..nuff said there. slot or drill slot combos have one nice feature of sweeping the pad & keeping the glaze down if you do any track time. the dealer is really poking you in the back door with that price however. turning a rotor on something good like a flywheel machiene will cost $60 for all 4 rotors, front pads are $120 for a really good pad like a KVR street carbon. & under $100 for the rears, cheaper pads obviously will be cheaper. feel free to email me if you have any specific questions i've helped out quite a few friends with everything from track cars to street cars.
When you find a 3300+ lb Porsche with a cast iron motor in the front with flimsy Chevy 2 piston calipers and skinny rotors and no brake cooling ducts, you let me know.
Ever hear of a 928?
...Then again, I guess your kind of right because you will never see one with flimsy chevy 2 piston calipers. :D
I just got the call from the dealership......$440.00 before tax to have all four rotors cut with new pads :eek: The service writer told me that the pads alone for the front brakes cost over $100.00 is that true?
I hate being at the mercy of a mechanic but I don't have the tools or the place to do the work myself.
If you do it yourself (minimal tools required), you could purchase a set of premium brake pads (EBC reenstuff, Raybestos QS, Hawk, etc.) and take the rotors to a REPUTABLE brake shop (Pepboys... :nonod: ) to have them turned down and it would cost you approximately half of what the dealer is asking.
An experienced person could change pads/rotors in less than an hour. Inexperienced...well, even if it takes 4 hours, you would still be saving alot of money. AND, after you are done...you wouldn't be inexperienced anymore! :yesnod:
GO FOR IT!!! :cheers: