Help - Ignition system

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Jul 19, 2008 | 04:07 PM

ricktbeeler

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Help - Ignition system

I have a 1987 corvette coupe. I've been having a puzzling situation with the ignition system. It started yesterday. I drove it home from work, went inside for about 15 minutes and when I came out again the car wouldn't start. It will power everything on (the climate control, windows, etc.) but when I turn the ignition to start nothing happens.

I waited about 2 hours, went out to start diagnosing the problem, and the car started right up. I drove it to the store, and then went to eat (stopping and starting the motor at least 3 times) and when I left the restaurant it wouldn't start again. I just need some suggestions on where to start troubleshooting. It is the starter motor or one of the electrical components between the starter motor and the ignition switch? Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Rick

Jul 19, 2008 | 04:11 PM

rick lambert

Le Mans Master

Joined: Oct 2003

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From: seattle WA

I'm betting on a bad starter.......next time it won't start take a pipe or jack handle and rap the starter 3-4 times, if it then starts...time for a starter.

Jul 19, 2008 | 04:40 PM

chevylu

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From: LA California

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricktbeeler

Check your injectors. This sounds a lot like my '90:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2072870

Jul 19, 2008 | 06:37 PM

ricktbeeler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by chevylu

Check your injectors. This sounds a lot like my '90:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2072870

Would the injectors being bad stop the engine from turning over completely? That is what is happening.

Jul 19, 2008 | 07:18 PM

chevylu

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From: LA California

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricktbeeler

Would the injectors being bad stop the engine from turning over completely? That is what is happening.

No, that sounds more along the lines of a VATS or starter enable relay problem.

Read this for VATS: http://wagtail.home.att.net/extras/vatsbite.pdf

Jul 19, 2008 | 07:33 PM

schrade

Safety Car

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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O

Test to see if it's a VATS gig:

Next time it doesn't start, try again in 8 (or 10; not sure of spec time for disablement) minutes. If it starts, VATS.

VATS? Check the key for pocket lint, break down the lock cylinder for jam in there too.

Jul 19, 2008 | 07:45 PM

jfb

Team Owner

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 54,124

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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA

Here is how you diagnose if its VATS or your starter (even if no click when you hit crank). When it won't crank, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic, at base of gear shift) and jump the switch. Measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank, if no 12v, then its VATS, if 12v and no crank, then its your starter. If no 12v, then remove the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column going to a 2 pin connector and unplug. With key in the ignition, measure the resistance across the two wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the key pellet. If more than 4% off, then you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a 1/4 watt (or higher) 5% resistor from Radio Shack the same value as your pellet (not more than 4% off) across the 2 wires from the wiring harness (goes to VATS module). Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.

Last edited by jfb; Jul 19, 2008 at 07:48 PM.

Jul 20, 2008 | 02:39 AM

ricktbeeler

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Great advice guys. Thanks so much for the help. I inspected the car key and the chip was very oxidized. I work as a chemist in a high acid environment and I hadn't ever even thought of that.

I got my spare key, and the car started right up. I'm willing to bet it was the contacts because of the oxidation. Anyway, I will definitely be leaving my keys in my locker at work from now on. Thanks again for the help!