Replacing the heads in a L98.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Utah County Utah
Thanks for all the help guys. At the moment I am leaning torwards Eldabrock, it seems to be a good head. Should I get the ones that are built up, or buy them stripped and buy the springs, valves, seals ect... for them seperate so I can get better quality/performance then it would have come with?
I would like to build up this engine to have a ton of power, I just wasin't quite ready to do it yet, but seeing as how I am being forced to do it early I don't want to make too many compromises which will cost me money down the road because I am rebuying certain components.
Can someone link to the AFR heads which are considered "best" so I can see their price and what it would cost for shipping?
I would like to build up this engine to have a ton of power, I just wasin't quite ready to do it yet, but seeing as how I am being forced to do it early I don't want to make too many compromises which will cost me money down the road because I am rebuying certain components.
Can someone link to the AFR heads which are considered "best" so I can see their price and what it would cost for shipping?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
either fix what you have or get edelbrock. they have a centerbolt head that uses a 60cc chamber and gives you stock compression with a felpro 1010 head gasket. the chamber is 2cc's larger but the gasket is .012 thinner. technically that increases quench which is good for combustion. personally i would see what's wrong with what you have. the heads i refer to are their older design which performs similar out of the box to the late l98 castings {we call them 113s due to their casting #}
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...erformer.shtml
that's a link to the edelbrock page where the heads i speak of can be found. 2nd one down is what i refer to. if you wanted to spend more, their e-tec 170 head and the vortec base manifold would be better in the long run since they use modern chambers and flow better. the vortec base is also superior to the factory one.
on to the rings. you can do a leak down test in order to tell if you have broken rings.
keep in mind that you can probably fix your stock heads for less. aluminum can be welded if cracked and decking heads is usually $50-80 a pair. with any luck you didn't kill anything too bad
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...erformer.shtml
that's a link to the edelbrock page where the heads i speak of can be found. 2nd one down is what i refer to. if you wanted to spend more, their e-tec 170 head and the vortec base manifold would be better in the long run since they use modern chambers and flow better. the vortec base is also superior to the factory one.
on to the rings. you can do a leak down test in order to tell if you have broken rings.
keep in mind that you can probably fix your stock heads for less. aluminum can be welded if cracked and decking heads is usually $50-80 a pair. with any luck you didn't kill anything too bad
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
What's to say a cracked head wouldn't bleed down the same as a ring? How can you tell the diff?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
you won't totally know with the head until you tear the motor down. if a seat cracked it would be impossible to tell. as far as the 1010, i have no idea why people have problems with those. they are .039 vs the .051 factory. if people have issues with a 1010 it's probably because the surface isn't true. i use 1010s in a car that runs low 12s with zero issues. .029 gaskets like TPIS sells can get tricky but .039 is a typical SBC gasket. BTW 1010's are made for use with aluminum heads on iron blocks. you could use comtec or something if you were scared of felpro. in all seriousness though. if you have a warped deck, nothing will seal very long.
Last edited by racebum; Jul 29, 2008 at 01:45 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35,065
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Hey, I made a decision to go with a 427
I will be selling my Brodix Race Rites.....180CC and I had them machined to 58CC chambers. ALSO had a machine shop put holes in the head for spark plug guides and temp sensor.
I have about $1700 into these heads.....they have less than 100 miles on them.
I will be selling my Brodix Race Rites.....180CC and I had them machined to 58CC chambers. ALSO had a machine shop put holes in the head for spark plug guides and temp sensor.
I have about $1700 into these heads.....they have less than 100 miles on them.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 3
From: Citrus Heights California
Hey, I made a decision to go with a 427
I will be selling my Brodix Race Rites.....180CC and I had them machined to 58CC chambers. ALSO had a machine shop put holes in the head for spark plug guides and temp sensor.
I have about $1700 into these heads.....they have less than 100 miles on them.
I will be selling my Brodix Race Rites.....180CC and I had them machined to 58CC chambers. ALSO had a machine shop put holes in the head for spark plug guides and temp sensor.
I have about $1700 into these heads.....they have less than 100 miles on them.
Why start all over? Sorry for changing the subject but I'm baffled by this.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35,065
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
I spun a rod bearing.
SO.....
I have to pull the motor and fix all that crap anyway...
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: El Paso Texas
1985 Corvette stock L98 engine confusion.
I posted this in another forum, I hope I can get an answer here sooner:
I have a 1985 C4 Corvette with stock L98, a 383 brand new kit and new mild cam and accesories for the rebuild and on the side, a Vortec 350ci (1994ish Suburban 1500 I think) engine that needs head gaskets.
What should I do?
Should I rebuild the Vortec with the 383ci kit and get a new intake to replace the TPI of sorts (unless there is a TPI intake manifold that fits the Vortec heads or other alternative).
Should I just rebuild the L98 with the 383 kit instead and sell the Vortec engine as is ($400-$450) or rebuilt for a premium and ask for $600-$700....?
The 383 kit was for the L98 originally, the Vortec Engine was droped in my hands after the fact....
The Corvette is no longer required by the State of Texas to pass an emmisions test (the vehicle is more than 24 years old by law)
Oh! BTW I do have a stock 75 Camaro RS that needs work with a V8 350 engine in it......
Any suggestions?
I have a 1985 C4 Corvette with stock L98, a 383 brand new kit and new mild cam and accesories for the rebuild and on the side, a Vortec 350ci (1994ish Suburban 1500 I think) engine that needs head gaskets.
What should I do?
Should I rebuild the Vortec with the 383ci kit and get a new intake to replace the TPI of sorts (unless there is a TPI intake manifold that fits the Vortec heads or other alternative).
Should I just rebuild the L98 with the 383 kit instead and sell the Vortec engine as is ($400-$450) or rebuilt for a premium and ask for $600-$700....?
The 383 kit was for the L98 originally, the Vortec Engine was droped in my hands after the fact....
The Corvette is no longer required by the State of Texas to pass an emmisions test (the vehicle is more than 24 years old by law)
Oh! BTW I do have a stock 75 Camaro RS that needs work with a V8 350 engine in it......
Any suggestions?
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Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 2
From: The Motor City
Really? The law is what tells you the car is older than 24 years, not the model year? Really? 
To the O.P., Curveit had a very good point in his post. Have your original heads checked by a reputable machine shop for cracks/warpage before making any decisions whether you should replace them. You never mentioned what year your car was, so if it's an early C4 (pre 1987) then it came with iron heads, and they are far more tolerant of heat than aluminum units.
With that said, when the head gaskets blew on my '89 (one head cracked as a result too), I found that the cheapest option was to get a set of used heads (which I got from a Corvette salvage yard from another '89) and have them rebuilt. I too looked all kinds of options, from Edelbrock heads to AFRs and Brodix and everything in between, but at that time that it was better to just stick with stock. Better heads will come in the future - I just wanted to get the car running again.
As for those who say to stay away from the Felpro 1010s, I have been running them on my car now for well over 5 years without any issue at all. They are a fantastic head gasket, and I can't recommend them enough. They aren't cheap, but then again nothing worth having ever is... especially when it comes to cars.
To the O.P., Curveit had a very good point in his post. Have your original heads checked by a reputable machine shop for cracks/warpage before making any decisions whether you should replace them. You never mentioned what year your car was, so if it's an early C4 (pre 1987) then it came with iron heads, and they are far more tolerant of heat than aluminum units.
With that said, when the head gaskets blew on my '89 (one head cracked as a result too), I found that the cheapest option was to get a set of used heads (which I got from a Corvette salvage yard from another '89) and have them rebuilt. I too looked all kinds of options, from Edelbrock heads to AFRs and Brodix and everything in between, but at that time that it was better to just stick with stock. Better heads will come in the future - I just wanted to get the car running again.
As for those who say to stay away from the Felpro 1010s, I have been running them on my car now for well over 5 years without any issue at all. They are a fantastic head gasket, and I can't recommend them enough. They aren't cheap, but then again nothing worth having ever is... especially when it comes to cars.
Last edited by TheCorvetteKid; Aug 10, 2010 at 07:12 AM.
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: El Paso Texas
L98 Heads
Geesh!!
I did get a quick reply on this forum, but still no answer to the questions...If I can get an answer to any questions please post an answer regarding the swap mentioned above.
If I needed help on how to write my thesis at the end of next year, I would have asked that instead...
But to answer the reply as a courtesy....
In Texas, cars that are 24 or more years old are exempt of emissions testing but still have to pass the safety inspection part only.
If you take the model year and substract that from the current year and come up with the differece of > 24 (that is more than to those that are sensitive on gramar and language mechanics in this forum) then your car is exempt.
I hope I was clear enough on that point now. I do apologize.
I did get a quick reply on this forum, but still no answer to the questions...If I can get an answer to any questions please post an answer regarding the swap mentioned above.
If I needed help on how to write my thesis at the end of next year, I would have asked that instead...
But to answer the reply as a courtesy....
In Texas, cars that are 24 or more years old are exempt of emissions testing but still have to pass the safety inspection part only.
If you take the model year and substract that from the current year and come up with the differece of > 24 (that is more than to those that are sensitive on gramar and language mechanics in this forum) then your car is exempt.
I hope I was clear enough on that point now. I do apologize.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Geesh!!
I did get a quick reply on this forum, but still no answer to the questions...If I can get an answer to any questions please post an answer regarding the swap mentioned above.
If I needed help on how to write my thesis at the end of next year, I would have asked that instead...But to answer the reply as a courtesy....
In Texas, cars that are 24 or more years old are exempt of emissions testing but still have to pass the safety inspection part only.
If you take the model year and substract that from the current year and come up with the differece of > 24 (that is more than to those that are sensitive on gramar and language mechanics in this forum) then your car is exempt.I hope I was clear enough on that point now. I do apologize.
I did get a quick reply on this forum, but still no answer to the questions...If I can get an answer to any questions please post an answer regarding the swap mentioned above.
If I needed help on how to write my thesis at the end of next year, I would have asked that instead...But to answer the reply as a courtesy....
In Texas, cars that are 24 or more years old are exempt of emissions testing but still have to pass the safety inspection part only.
If you take the model year and substract that from the current year and come up with the differece of > 24 (that is more than to those that are sensitive on gramar and language mechanics in this forum) then your car is exempt.I hope I was clear enough on that point now. I do apologize.
Jake
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: El Paso Texas
L98 vortec heads swap or complete engine swap...
Thanks Jake for your reply. You are right regarding answering sarcasm with sarcasm. I should have not replied at all to the smart comment and intead ignore it altogether. My bad.
I always tought that any replies to you (in this case me) as a courtesy need to be replied on.
Moreover, I tought that this was a forum of a technical matter and not an English language mechanics and grammar correction forum. I did apologize for making the grammar mistake.
BTW if that is you in uniform in your avatar, thank you for your service. I served for 10 years myself and will do it all over again.
Thank you for your prompt reply...
Javier
I always tought that any replies to you (in this case me) as a courtesy need to be replied on.
Moreover, I tought that this was a forum of a technical matter and not an English language mechanics and grammar correction forum. I did apologize for making the grammar mistake.
BTW if that is you in uniform in your avatar, thank you for your service. I served for 10 years myself and will do it all over again.
Thank you for your prompt reply...
Javier
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: El Paso Texas
I got this reply to the same original question @ digitalCorvettes.com :
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3817
summit sells a VORTEC TPI BASE
IF your goal is to have a significant increase in torque, to match the stock rear gearing, and keep the basic low rpm torque and response of the stock tpi and don,t mind the engine nosing over on power as it runs out of air flow at about 4700rpm
build the 383 add the vortec heads and a decent cam, like a crane 114132, keep the cpr down in the 9.0-9.4:1 range so you can run pump gas, get the quench in the .038-.044 range and enjoy smoking the tires
you'll have a very noticeable gain from the increased displacement and better head flow, and have a great combo for cruising and daily driving, far to many guys get fixated on the potential peak hp numbers , that the bigger heads, and larger cams can produce at the cost of lost low rpm power,rather than the much more useful low and mid rpm torque curve that makes the car fun to drive on the street
hp is great for bragging but an instantly responsive engine with a great deal of low and mid range torque is a lot more fun on the street, you could easily gain 70-80 hp OR MORE thru those mods (heads,intake,cam, stroker kit)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-151124/
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...s&autoview=SKU
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3817
summit sells a VORTEC TPI BASE
IF your goal is to have a significant increase in torque, to match the stock rear gearing, and keep the basic low rpm torque and response of the stock tpi and don,t mind the engine nosing over on power as it runs out of air flow at about 4700rpm
build the 383 add the vortec heads and a decent cam, like a crane 114132, keep the cpr down in the 9.0-9.4:1 range so you can run pump gas, get the quench in the .038-.044 range and enjoy smoking the tires
you'll have a very noticeable gain from the increased displacement and better head flow, and have a great combo for cruising and daily driving, far to many guys get fixated on the potential peak hp numbers , that the bigger heads, and larger cams can produce at the cost of lost low rpm power,rather than the much more useful low and mid rpm torque curve that makes the car fun to drive on the street
hp is great for bragging but an instantly responsive engine with a great deal of low and mid range torque is a lot more fun on the street, you could easily gain 70-80 hp OR MORE thru those mods (heads,intake,cam, stroker kit)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-151124/
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...s&autoview=SKU
