Finally! It all makes sense now!
This morning, same old thing with idle. Wouldn't idle when I first started it up. Unplugged est wire, idled great. I also began to diagnose a recent knocking sound at low rpms from the rear of the engine. The pass. side bolt that holds the flywheel to the torque converter has backed out, no cracks in flywheel.
Take a second to chew that over. (Jeopardy music plays)...
If you're like me, a light bulb should appear over your head. The knock sensor is close to the flywheel (somewhat). It's picking up the banging sound from the flywheel and retarding the timing! The sound is only noticeable while at low rpms, which is where the timing problem is.
This is still a theory I guess, haven't actually confirmed this being the case, but it sure does make sense to me. Thoughts?
Last edited by cwyates4; Jul 29, 2008 at 05:10 PM.
I'll go get that $40 he ripped from me.
^ Sorry for the sarcasm. He's a personal friend, I'd never try to get money back from him. When I first got the car, the only problem it had was the IAC, the install of that was free. Injector install was $30. You see my point.
My theory makes sense or no? Now that I think of it, I seemed to have a slight knock start from down there about the same time the idle issue started. Seemed to get progressively worse over time, bolt backing out further...?
Last edited by cwyates4; Jul 28, 2008 at 05:12 PM.
How sensative are knock sensors? Should it pick up the sound, even though its not overly loud? (if you get on the ground by the front tire, it sounds like an engine knock) Maybe my knock sensor is old and getting more sensative too? Its only a $30 part, might replace that at the same time.




How sensative are knock sensors? Should it pick up the sound, even though its not overly loud? (if you get on the ground by the front tire, it sounds like an engine knock) The noise that travels through the metal of the block has an better transmission medium versus air. The sensor very possibly could be hearing a very substantial noise. Maybe my knock sensor is old and getting more sensative too? Its only a $30 part, might replace that at the same time.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
BTW, Gorden Killebrew recommended to me an upgrade from the OEM ESC module, details on my site.
Mine won't idle when its cold with the wire plugged in, once I can get it to run, its still very rough, occasional pops out of the exhaust when decelerating. Bucking and hunting at lights, etc.
I thought those symptoms indicated too much advance, but the guy I took the car to yesterday says it sounds more like its retarding.
When cold, if I unplug the wire, everything is fine. That, to me, seems to rule out a vacuum leak, fuel problems, internal problems, or any other sensors besides the ones in the esc circuit.
Did something stupid yesterday! Took it to the mechanic because I couldn't reach the loose flywheel bolt, the starter was in the way.
I could have just cranked it real quick and got it to stop somewhere else, instead of driving 8 miles to the shop.
That updated ESC module makes a difference. I followed 65Z01's advice for my '85. Also, since you have an '85, you should be able to drive the car with the knock sensor unplugged, your ECM isn't smart enough to monitor the sensor directly. I used that process to identify some problems I had a while back, and was able to fix them. I believe it works on '84's too, because CFI-EFI runs with his knock sensor permanently disconnected. Anyway, just my experience, take that for what its worth.
He had the vette on when I got there. Flywheel bolt is back in. Lowered the car and cranked it, didn't die, but it wasn't completly cold (coolant was 130). Was a little rough, not bad though. Turned the car off and unplugged the est, ran much better.
Looks like that wasn't the issue. He said it sounds like a rocker is out of adjustment, and I'm having him put new valve covers on, so he's going to check that out. He said if no one has adjusted the valves for a couple of years, its probably that time, the solid roller cam will cause them to get out of adjustment.
So, he's got it and he's keeping it. He wants to check vacuum, check timing, check the rockers, etc. Fine with me.
As far as I concerned, he can keep it as long as he wants, I'm fed up with it.
That's all you need to do right now. It's time to poop or get off the pot. Passin' gas just stinks stuff up, and makes ONE PERSON feel good, and that sound like what's gettin' done elsewhere.
The guy that has it now though has always done all the work on the suburban, tahoe, and van (obd 1). He always got them right and never has thrown parts at something, so I'm going to let him keep it while I'm out of town the rest of the week.
If it still ain't right then, I'll bring it home and work on it while I part out my trans am. If I can't get it right in a few weeks, it might just find its way on a thread titled "parting out highly modded 85."
I do have the diacom setup coming in the mail for the laptop, maybe that would show me something.
We talked again about the issue. He told me he moved it earlier and it was cool (maybe not fully cooled off) and it seemed much better than before he tightened the flywheel bolt. He said it still has some roughness, and is improved with the wire disconnected, but it never tried to die on him.
I brought him some new valve covers and gaskets, while he does those, he's going to check out the rockers and make sure they are all within spec.
Who knows, maybe he'll figure it out. I really want to get my laptop hooked up to it and see what all the sensors are doing, especially the knock sensor. Will have to wait till the weekend to see!








