jerking motion when engaging forward or reverse, 86
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jerking motion when engaging forward or reverse, 86
One other puzzling thing on my 86 project. When I go from park to forward or reverse, the cark jerks a bit. Once in gear it drives OK, though I haven't had it up to speed any real speed yet. I was going to address this later, but was wondering if it's something I should start dealing with now. I'm guessing worn U joints, which sounds like another winter project, but not real sure. Any ideas? Car has 106k miles on it. Engine runs strong, trans shifts good, but I've only had it up to 30 MPH or so. It's not registered yet. I figure flying down the street with no plates or registration is probably a bad idea.
Bob
Bob
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Half-shaft u-joints are not too difficult but it can become a long series of little jobs.
I wanted to inspect all the rear end so I removed a lot more bolts than are listed in the various write-ups on the subject. While that may seem trivial, some of the bolts are do-able but not easy without a lift.
Even expensive u-joints from Spicer are only $35 or so while thepartsladi sells full sets of 6 AC/Delco for about $70. If you catch them early in their failure then they won't damage the half-shafts or the yokes.
I found that a tie-rod puller, the kind shaped like a capital C with a bolt in the center, is much easier and better than those shaped like a tuning fork. I also bought both a regular and a deep well 15/16" sockets. I'm not sure what the metric size is but it is larger than a 23mm and smaller than 1". I could not find the sockets in metric size but the 15/16" fits perfectly.
I used the vise method but can see how a press would be better. If you have neither then you can take the half shafts to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new for you. The tool designed for u-joint replacement, the one that looks like an over sized c-clamp is useless for the removal of a joint with a damaged seal but works ok for installing new.
Good luck and don't be afraid to tackle this yourself!
I wanted to inspect all the rear end so I removed a lot more bolts than are listed in the various write-ups on the subject. While that may seem trivial, some of the bolts are do-able but not easy without a lift.
Even expensive u-joints from Spicer are only $35 or so while thepartsladi sells full sets of 6 AC/Delco for about $70. If you catch them early in their failure then they won't damage the half-shafts or the yokes.
I found that a tie-rod puller, the kind shaped like a capital C with a bolt in the center, is much easier and better than those shaped like a tuning fork. I also bought both a regular and a deep well 15/16" sockets. I'm not sure what the metric size is but it is larger than a 23mm and smaller than 1". I could not find the sockets in metric size but the 15/16" fits perfectly.
I used the vise method but can see how a press would be better. If you have neither then you can take the half shafts to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new for you. The tool designed for u-joint replacement, the one that looks like an over sized c-clamp is useless for the removal of a joint with a damaged seal but works ok for installing new.
Good luck and don't be afraid to tackle this yourself!
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Thanks
So, it sounds like U joints eh? Guess I'm not afraid of tackling myself. Seems like it's going to take some time though. I just installed a new exhaust and cat. To get to the long shaft, all that, pluss the y pipe has to come out. That's scary, becasue I know those bolts are frozen. Oh well, sounds like a job for a bunch of cold weather weekends....
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
