C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Omg please some one tell me

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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 10:05 PM
  #1  
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Default Omg please some one tell me

What is wrong with this freaking car!
85 bone stock performance chip 160 thermo new TPS IAC Valve, Fuel Pump plugs, wires

I raced it last week in a auto x and it seemed down on power, i got on the express way and when i hammer the throddle to tghe floor it seems like it bogs down like its starving for fuel (but you can smell it burning rich) No smoke. I get home the knock sensor wire was off. it threw a code 43 (knock sensor) The cap that hold it on the sensor is broken.
I put a clamp on it lightly to hold it on.

I too it to my mechanic to have the TPI dialed in. he adjusted the TPS and Idle. No codes ran fine

I drove it tonight and it started again I hammer on it and it just doesnt want to go. if i feather the trottle it will accelerate. It is not throwing any codes.

WHAT IS IT? I swear i am about to get a for sale sighn. THIS IS WHY I AM CONSIDERING A CARB SET UP!

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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Start with fuel pressure reads - static, idle with vacuum on FPR, idle with vacuum off of FPR, and pedal down - gauge taped to windshield.

Then do Mr jon's injector check per his video.

I think that will tell you much.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Sounds like you have developed a rich condition which likely carbon-fouled the plugs.

I'd check the plugs first to confirm the richness and troubleshoot the fuel system for sources of an overly rich mixture. If they're all black, then you're generally rich, if its only 1 or two that are fouled, then check the specfic wires.

Leaking injectors, leaking regulator, excess fuel pressure, overly large injectors, maf sensor, maf sensor calibration in the tune, coolant temp sensor, or excess frictional load can all contribute to an overly rich mixture.

A couple of fouled mis-firing plugs can increase the load (airflow per rpm) which can further increase the mixture enrichment while in open loop contributing to even more fouling and rough running.

Fouled cylinders on the driver's side can also adversely affect closed loop by creating a false lean condition, contributing to even more richness as the ecm compensates.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 12:47 AM
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With the above, but is the car doing this when cold, warm, or both?

An injecter ohm test probably won't reveal much, the '85s had bosch injectors which are not prone to failure like the multecs.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cwyates4
With the above, but is the car doing this when cold, warm, or both?

An injecter ohm test probably won't reveal much, the '85s had bosch injectors which are not prone to failure like the multecs.
It does it after it is warm. I brought my video camera, when it does it again i will tape it and You tube it and paste the link.

Its driving me nuts can you bypass the knock sensor.

I swear taht carb set up is sounding better and better
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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the fuel system needs to be thoroughly diagnosed. Yes it sucks but part of having a 24 yr old fuel injected car. Its a strong possibility that your fuel pressure regulator is on its way out. Check to see if any fuel is coming out of the vacuum port.

cwyates4, yes the multechs are prone to failure but that doesnt mean the Bosches wont fail either, after all they're over 20 years old. New injectors will outperform those old ones even if the originals arent completely bad yet. All of mine were still within spec when I replaced them but I noticed an increase in power, responsiveness, and fuel economy. I went from 21 mpg to nearly 25 mpg on the highway
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Demonic85
the fuel system needs to be thoroughly diagnosed. Yes it sucks but part of having a 24 yr old fuel injected car. Its a strong possibility that your fuel pressure regulator is on its way out. Check to see if any fuel is coming out of the vacuum port.

cwyates4, yes the multechs are prone to failure but that doesnt mean the Bosches wont fail either, after all they're over 20 years old. New injectors will outperform those old ones even if the originals arent completely bad yet. All of mine were still within spec when I replaced them but I noticed an increase in power, responsiveness, and fuel economy. I went from 21 mpg to nearly 25 mpg on the highway
I did check the regulator and i do not see or smell any gas in the vaccume lines.
I am at a loss. I truley love this car, but it is driving me nuts.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:50 AM
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Did you do the 4 fuel pressure tests? First test includes pressure let-off time; how long before pressure drops...
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by schrade
Did you do the 4 fuel pressure tests? First test includes pressure let-off time; how long before pressure drops...

Not recently but i did when i put the fuel pump in. It is not long enough for me to see while driving. The pump held good pressure and good back pressure after the new fuel pump.

Ill check again tonight
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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Here's a guess (if you wanted to start throwing parts at it..) - ignition coil.

Won't set a code - OBD1 system has no way of looking at the secondary side of the ignition system. Coil winding insulation resistance can/will break down as temps come up and the resulting misfiring just gets worse and worse.

Happened to me on My '85 - would run great when Cold, as Soon as it started to get up near normal coolant temp it would begin to fall on it's face under load/acceleration. A new ignition coil (Finally - I won't go thru the list of everything I tried and replaced) fixed it.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rons85
Here's a guess (if you wanted to start throwing parts at it..) - ignition coil.

Won't set a code - OBD1 system has no way of looking at the secondary side of the ignition system. Coil winding insulation resistance can/will break down as temps come up and the resulting misfiring just gets worse and worse.

Happened to me on My '85 - would run great when Cold, as Soon as it started to get up near normal coolant temp it would begin to fall on it's face under load/acceleration. A new ignition coil (Finally - I won't go thru the list of everything I tried and replaced) fixed it.
Hmm thatis a good thought, BTW i have a performance chip in it but it did not act like this when i put it in and it has been in for 5 months
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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Ok i got new plugs, Dist Cap, and Coil. I will start there. all togather it was 60 bucks.

HOWEVER how do i put a new knock sensor wire? just soder it? or does any one know where it goes into.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Ok i got new plugs, Dist Cap, and Coil. I will start there. all togather it was 60 bucks.
Why didn't ya' start with the FREE stuff?

If you're wealthy, can I send ya' a paypal and you give me some extra $$$?
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by schrade
Why didn't ya' start with the FREE stuff?

If you're wealthy, can I send ya' a paypal and you give me some extra $$$?

I know that coil is Very old. and the cap looks kinda ratty. The plugs are cheap. so why not. and of course im rich I have a corvette! isnt that what every one thinks!
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave

I swear taht carb set up is sounding better and better
I would get the TPI fixed, I had the CFI TB's and gave up for now and put an Edelbrock carb on it. If mine was a TPI, I prob would not have gone carb. The TPI was a great improvement of the CrossFire IMO.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:25 PM
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You can get a new connector and lead wire for the knock sensor (the squeeze type "nipple" connector) at most any auto parts store. Just cut off what's left of your Old connector and solder (or crimp together, if you choose) the new one to the wire. Fixed.

You Really don't want to "bypass" that knock sensor, or leave it disconnected...
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 01:40 PM
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Ok I plan on doing the knoc sensoe wire next,

I changed the dist and the rotor button was loose on one sie, i when ahead and changed plugs. Guess what STILL SCREWED UP! you atek off normal no problem, but you mash the gas and it cuts in and out and stumbles. let off the gas its fine. it does it above teps of 190. My buddy thinks its the catalitic converter? Any Ideas I am realy at a loss here! If i cutt it off will it screw up the ECM readings? My mechanic says it has some polution controll on it?

IF it does not get diagnosed or fixed soon its getting a for sale sign! I am mgetting very tired of this, I was a ford man for many years and this is my first bow tie. I am not impressed as of yet with the dependability of this car.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 01:58 PM
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O2 sensor, plain and simple.

could still be the ignition control module or clogged cat, but I'd bet the house on the o2.

When the car gets warm, look at the catalytic converter, if its clogged, it'll be glowin'.

Last edited by cwyates4; Aug 10, 2008 at 02:02 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cwyates4
O2 sensor, plain and simple.

could still be the ignition control module or clogged cat, but I'd bet the house on the o2.

When the car gets warm, look at the catalytic converter, if its clogged, it'll be glowin'.

Then why no codes? I will check gthe Cat today and see.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cwyates4
O2 sensor, plain and simple.

could still be the ignition control module or clogged cat, but I'd bet the house on the o2.

When the car gets warm, look at the catalytic converter, if its clogged, it'll be glowin'.
Sounds like a clogged cat and PLEASE learn to spell and you can put a comma or period in there every once in a while.
Kidding aside, sounds like a clogged cat and don't solder the connection, get a new connector.
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