C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Stumbles on acceleration

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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 06:48 PM
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Default Stumbles on acceleration

Ok stock 86 tpi. No codes I checked. It runs rough and rpm goes up and down just alittle at idol when cold. If you hit the gas it wants to die, then will rev up. When warm it idols ok but when you stab the gas in park it stumbles, then revs up. I have put plugs, wires, cap, fuel filter, fuel pump and sock. Tps is set right .54v, changed MAF with another and that didn't help. Timing is set at 6 with the est disconnected. I am getting 16 inhg vacuum at the right rear of the plenum. I found 1 vacuum leak and that made it run alittle better but its still no where right. Any ideas oh corvette masters...
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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Did you change the MAF power and burn off relays when you changed the MAF sensor?
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:06 PM
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no I did not
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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Most will agree that the relays should be changed when the MAF is changed...maybe you should try that, I think they are ~$15 each. They are located on the firewall behind the battery.

Don't know if that'll help you out, but its worth a shot, especially since you were supposed to change 'em out anyways.

Also, have you checked the fuel pressure?
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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alright I will do that, yes the fuel press is 39 a idol and goes up under load. Hey thanks, you have been a big help. Some times you just need somebody to bounce ideas off of.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:30 PM
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http://www.autozone.com/N,15901319/s...eResultSet.htm
Both of these?
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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fuel pressure looks good; did you leave the gauge on the car for a while after you shut it down. It should hold pressure for a while.

Miles, I've been goin' through the same thing as you for 5 months. I think I've finally tracked it down to a bad maf burnoff module ('85s only). It does the same thing as the two relays.

If you have a volt meter or multi meter, you could check the function of the relays before replacing.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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Miles, the relays on the 87-89 are the same, but there is a difference between the two on your '86. I couldn't tell you anything about the autozone ones, I buy most of my stuff from Mid america. Here's a link to the relays:

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-3-139-6128.html

the ones from autozone would probably work, you'd just have to make sure which on is which.

http://www.autozone.com/N,15901319//...eResultSet.htm
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 08:16 PM
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IIRC the original relays carried different part numbers, the newer style is the same for both. I bought one years ago when my burn-off relay crapped out. 'Got the new style from the dealer. All is good for a day or so then I got a different malfunction code Back to the dealer, I tell the older parts guy who grins "they didn't read the service bulliten, both power and burn-off have to be replaced together when using the new common relay"

If you search you should find the numbers and such...
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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Yeah the guy at the Zone was like "umm we can't get thoes", I said could you order them? him, "umm I don't think so". so I will try to check them first...
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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If you need to know the procedure, shoot me pm and I'll fill ya' in on it. The search function is pretty screwy right now, makes it hard to find all the good old information.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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Checked both MAF relays. Both working... so now I am going to dig into the injectors maybe they are leaking.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Just curious, what voltage did you get at E?

Yep, follow that fuel pressure diagram I sent ya', it will turn up any leaks in the system you've got.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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14.23 dc volts when running
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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Hmm...that seems on the high side. To my understanding, it should be 12v...lemme do some searchin'...


couldn't find anything...maybe someone else will jump in on it. I would think that 14v is too high, meaning a bad power relay, but I really don't know.

try this, pierce the C&A wires at the MAF and get a volt reading between the two with the engine running and MAF connected. Should be between 4-6V. If it sends too much voltage, it might return too much also, making the supposed to be 4-6 be ~8...who knows!

Last edited by cwyates4; Aug 14, 2008 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 01:56 AM
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alright I will try that tomorrow. Thanks
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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ok did some more tests. fuel pressure gauge hooked up, car running its at 39, went around the block under load at WOT goes to up to around 42 so thats all good. shut it off and pressure went to 20 in less then 2 minutes. humm, I went back under the gas cap area and pinched off the return line. Turned the key on, built up alot of pressure and turned the key off and the pressure fell to 20 in under 2 minutes again. So I'm thinking leaking injector? next is to remove the injectors from the base and pressurise the rail and see whats going on right? or I will wait till it cools down crank it over a few times. Then start pulling plugs to see if they are wet...
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Did you check for fuel in the fuel pressure regulator? Also, you said the TPS was set at .54 volts, did you check it all the way to WOT, it should increase smoothly to 5 volts.
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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If you pinch the return line and still lose pressure (assuming its a solid pinch) you have leaky injectors, more than likely. You can do either test you'd like, but if you do the first one you mentioned, make sure to have some rags handy and use a pretty deep bowl or somethin' to collect the fuel.

Mine dropped to 0 in twenty minutes when I had 2 leaky injectors. Now, it holds 20 for over 2 hours and holds pressure over night.
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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fuel regulator is good,TPS is good also sweeps up as it should. I have atleast 1 leaking injector, they are origional and have 125,000 miles so I am replacing them all.
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