I am installing a ZZ4 cam in my 1990. I was wondering from those who have done it, is there anything I should be aware of?? Any tips? This is the first time I have done a cam whit the engine in the car. Also this is the first time I am changing a roller cam. I have all the parts, timing chain, cover, gaskets, and LT4 springs, etc. Any helpful hints would be great. I will also post here if I run into something and need help along the way. I am hoping to get this done in 1 or 2 weekends...

 

Six 7MM bolts will be the death of you.....

You'll see what I mean when you get there.

The bottom screws on the Radiator shroud.

Good luck.

 

the timing chain cover!

 

easy enough, just drop the pan....the water pump hoses are the bitch for that.

Those stupid "T" fitting off the water pump is the problem.

 

Im not sure I follow... I guess Ill see when I get into it!!

 

Just be patient, don't get in a hurry. Every time you start to get frustrated, stop and have a beer. When you start to get drunk, call it a day. Are you dropping the oil pan? I had to take the bolts out of the front of it, just loosened all the back bolts. That gave me enough clearance to get the timing chain cover back on, but it would have been easier, in hindsight, to just drop the pan down. On the radiator shroud, I only removed the top 1/2 of it, then pulled the radiator up out. I also fought the A/C compressor the whole time and swung the condenser up out of the way and laid it on the windshield without unhooking any lines so I didn't have to recharge the A/C when done. I'd suggest new intake bolts. Also, if you strip any bolts at all, don't just think something will seal with 1 less bolt. Take the time to drill it out and tap the hole 1 size bigger. I made several trips to the hardware store for drill bits/taps/bolts. You will have to remove the bolt from 1 of the motor mounts (I did the driver's side) and jack the motor up some so you can slide the cam out, otherwise it hits the cross brace. Don't forget some sort of assembly lube on the cam, don't need to get too carried away with a roller cam tho. I used vaseline for assembly lube and had no problems. Not suggesting you do the same, but it worked for me. I also reinstalled my rockers and set the pre-load while the intake was still off. It is very easy to watch the bottom of the pushrod come to zero lash when you are looking at the lifter and holding the pushrod up against the rocker. I went 3/4 turn past 0 lash and have had no problems. I was one of the lucky ones, changed heads, cam, intake, and about everything else on the top of the engine and never had to pull the valve covers or anything back off after re-assembly. Don't forget to have a tune done. With that cam, a mail order tune should be great! Congrats for doing the work yourself, it is very rewarding when done!

 

If you have an auto, the tranny cooler lines can be a bitch, where they go into the radiator. Get a good fitting wrench for them, then actually try tightening them just a little before you try loosening them. That little secret has worked many times for me on line nuts.

 

Instead of buying new intake bolts, buy jsup's superram. You will gain more with the superram than you will from the cam. The 2 together will make you need new back tires!

 

Use flair nut wrenches you'll be fine. Do NOT use a regular open end. You will round out the nut.

 

Be careful not to nick the cam bearings, also it's allot easier if you use a cam handle or long bolt to start the cam removal, use plenty of assembly lube and locktite on the cam retaining bolts, also drink plenty of beer, last one being optional.

 

Thanks for all the info so far!!! I have a 6 speed so the cooler is not an issue. I have learned from many projects to be patient!! I dont have the money for a new intake but it would be nice. I am getting a tune from PCMforless. They do a great job! I will be sure to be careful when removing the old cam.

 

When you put in the 7mm bolts, flip them the other way, so if you ever have to get them out again, you can.

 

Ok I have run into a problem. Ive taken the radiator and the accessory pullies off and I am trying to take balancer off. The bolt on my puller is long and is hitting one of the power steering lines going into the rack. Can I unscrew this line and screw it back in when im done?? If i do this do I have to bleed the system or just put more fuid in and turn the wheel till there are no more bubbles?

 

NO, that line has a loop in it, the puller goes under that loop.

Take the puller apart and put the threaded rod through the looped PS line

Then put the yoke part of the puller on after the shaft is set through the loop.

it's made to pull like that without removing the line.

I did the cam in my 90 and did not have to disconnect the PS lines.

 

I tired that and i cant get the puller on striaght enough with the line there. Its in the way..

 

Pry the line up a little, it's no big deal. no need to remove it. IN my opinion you're looking for trouble if you take it off. It's a bitch to get off, you'll round out the nut. Just pry that one line up slightly and it will go.

 

I had to pry that line up some on mine. Just be careful not to kink it and it will be fine. Push it back to where it was after you are all done so it isn't in the way of anything else.

 

How did you guys do your valve timing?? I have a crank gear that has 0 and +/- 8 degrees..

 

Set your marks on your timing chain at either 12 and 6 or 12 and 12. Doesn't matter. If you go 12 and 6, set the distributor to cyl 6. If you go 12 and 12, set the dist to cyl 1.

Either way, set up the timing chain.

The way I do it is to have someone else turn the crank slowly. Keep your fingers across the valves. When you feel one move, either intake or exhaust, adjust the other valve for zero lash.

 

What do you mean by 12 and 6 or 12 and 12? I have 3 different keyways on the crank gear. The first is for 0 degrees, and the other two are for 4 degrees advance or 4 degrees retarded. I think I said 8 before but I was wrong. Which keyway does the key on the crank go into? Once I have it set to one of those how do I set the rest of the timing?

I'm sorry this is my first aftermarket cam swap and with a roller cam. Some of these parts Im not used to.