Check engine light display
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 43
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From: Saskatoon SK
Check engine light display
1987 Corvette. Should the Check Engine light come on momentarily when the key is turned on? I've never seen it come on, and don't think it works at all. Is there a bulb to replace or something? The only ones that come on in that display area are the "Security" and "Fasten Belts" lights. Thanks!
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1987 Corvette. Should the Check Engine light come on momentarily when the key is turned on? I've never seen it come on, and don't think it works at all. Is there a bulb to replace or something? The only ones that come on in that display area are the "Security" and "Fasten Belts" lights. Thanks!
This is a bulb check by factory. If nothing is wrong, these lights go out after engine starts.
Here are the bulb numbers for the entire car.
The DIC lights are all #194 bulbs. A common bulb stocked at the parts stores.
The bulbs twist into place from behind.
Wipe bulb clean before installing. Oil from your fingers can cause a pre mature burn out
How to get to the DIC with step by step pics.
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/89_startrelay.htm
Last edited by 86PACER; Sep 1, 2008 at 09:44 PM.
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Does the engine start and run normally?
Check the next.
Start the engine, disconnect the TPS connector and see if the light comes on.
Should come on and set a code 22.
Just to check the light here, and the ECM memory.
Maybe it is easy to take out the bulb on the DTC, but my guess it´s easier to disconnect and connect the TPS connector.
Or ground the test terminal above your right knee (when behind the wheel) jump pins A and B, top right ones.
Does SES light blink? Nothing? Then the bulb might be kaput.
Check the next.
Start the engine, disconnect the TPS connector and see if the light comes on.
Should come on and set a code 22.
Just to check the light here, and the ECM memory.
Maybe it is easy to take out the bulb on the DTC, but my guess it´s easier to disconnect and connect the TPS connector.
Or ground the test terminal above your right knee (when behind the wheel) jump pins A and B, top right ones.
Does SES light blink? Nothing? Then the bulb might be kaput.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon SK
Thanks 86Pacer, for the info. I will go get new bulbs today and replace them.
The point I realized that the SES light isn't working, is when I did in fact try to jump the A and B pins on the test terminal. Quite a few of the bulbs on that display look burned out, as the only ones that come on when It's started, or anytime are the "Security" and "Fasten Belts" lights. I will let you know how the bulb change goes.
Thanks so much for all of the help!!!
The point I realized that the SES light isn't working, is when I did in fact try to jump the A and B pins on the test terminal. Quite a few of the bulbs on that display look burned out, as the only ones that come on when It's started, or anytime are the "Security" and "Fasten Belts" lights. I will let you know how the bulb change goes.
Thanks so much for all of the help!!!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon SK
Okay, got the dash apart to see how many bulbs I'll need. The SES bulb wasn't burned out - it just wasn't there at all. I guess someone didn't like that light coming on and just removed the bulb at some point! The dash is back together with all new bulbs, and they work good. I jumped A + B and got the 6-12 codes, so that is working good now.
My next thing to do is to check that there's 12 volts going down to the 4+3 OD unit. Are any of you familiar with this procedure? I understand that I need to jump A+B to put it into diagnostic mode, and that this will send the voltage down the wire to test.
At that point, do I need the wire unplugged, then just voltmeter it with the ground to the OD case?
My next thing to do is to check that there's 12 volts going down to the 4+3 OD unit. Are any of you familiar with this procedure? I understand that I need to jump A+B to put it into diagnostic mode, and that this will send the voltage down the wire to test.
At that point, do I need the wire unplugged, then just voltmeter it with the ground to the OD case?
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