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How can I find out what type of head I have on my 86? VIN #1G1YY0789G5117332 there has been some work on the motor before I got it. No idea if the drilled out the holes or change pistons so in real need of help on this one. Trying to change the spark plugs and its going to tell me if I am setting them at .34 or .45.
How can I find out what type of head I have on my 86? VIN #1G1YY0789G5117332 there has been some work on the motor before I got it. No idea if the drilled out the holes or change pistons so in real need of help on this one. Trying to change the spark plugs and its going to tell me if I am setting them at .34 or .45.
if it's stock, the early 86's had iron heads - the later ones had aluminum. You can throw a magnet at it and find out real fast!
Your RPO codes in the boxes lids behind the seat may help - in the stickies is the list of what those codes ment!
In order to get a magnet on that I will have to pull the heads off to get to the piston? Or is there another way I do not know about… and thank you for the help!!!
In order to get a magnet on that I will have to pull the heads off to get to the piston? Or is there another way I do not know about… and thank you for the help!!!
Just put a magnet on any part of the head. Under the valve cover, by the exhaust, up front by the alternator, air pump. Anywhere as the whole cylinder head is madeof cast iron.
The magnet will tell you cast iron or aluminum. Since you are not the orignal owner, there is no way of knowing if it is a aftermarket head unless you pull it. If you don't need to pull it ....don't. The front of the head may be the easiest place to try the magnet. It doesn't have to be a large manget.
You can gap your plugs at .35 up to the .45 without a problem. The GM distributor will handle the larger gap without a problem. If you find that you have aluminum heads, BE SURE to use anti-seze on the plug threads and be careful when you start them. You don't want to cross thread aluminum.
Just put a magnet on any part of the head. Under the valve cover, by the exhaust, up front by the alternator, air pump. Anywhere as the whole cylinder head is madeof cast iron.
So if it sticks then its cast iron right and I don’t need to see the piston head for this. I was thinking that I had to get the magnet on top of the piston.
So if it sticks then its cast iron right and I don’t need to see the piston head for this. I was thinking that I had to get the magnet on top of the piston.
86 gurus check me if I am wrong but I thought all aluminum heads had center bolts for the valve covers. Valve covers for iron heads had perimeter bolts.
86 gurus check me if I am wrong but I thought all aluminum heads had center bolts for the valve covers. Valve covers for iron heads had perimeter bolts.
I will not be able to go off of that, only for the fact that the factory motor has be fixed/replace. Not the last owner but the owner before him: took the vette in for an oil change, shop failed to due it right and left the plug out. Result was a blown motor and a new motor and/or new parts were used to fix the damage, but some kind of up grade was made.
If the motor has factory aluminum heads, it will have centerbolt valve covers. If the motor has been rebuilt or replaced, it's entirely possible that aftermarket heads could have been installed. Most aftermarket aluminum heads use perimeter valve cover bolts so the only real test for factory iron heads is a magnet.
In any event, when installing new plugs, gap them at the factory settings for the type of cylinder head material. If they are aluminum heads (regardless of OEM or aftermarket), set the plugs at .045. If the heads are iron, set them at .035.