Missing Bolt....Help?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: The Ham AL
Missing Bolt....Help?
See in the pic the bolt that is supposed to stop the throttle wheel is not there!
I just finished an injector swap and when I tried to start the car it either wanted to run full throttle or nothing. I was fishing for an answer and found this.
I need all the specs on the bolt so I can buy another one. Please provide info!
Thanx
I just finished an injector swap and when I tried to start the car it either wanted to run full throttle or nothing. I was fishing for an answer and found this.
I need all the specs on the bolt so I can buy another one. Please provide info!
Thanx
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
From: Sarasota Fl
I had my TB off for cleaning and painting, so I tried to measure that bolt the best I could.
I couldn't remove it because I still have the tamper-proof plug on the TB, but that's good because it is at the factory length out of the TB.
A #6-32 nut could thread onto it. I took out my calipers and got 5.5-5.75 mm from where the bolt comes out of the opening to the end. I would first verify with a #6-32 bolt you may have laying around the garage that it does thread in and then do the measurements for the bolt length to achieve stock length.
Pics:
P.S. I'm trying to paint the TB and runners with the high temp VHT black paint and it requires baking in the oven at temperatures of 250, 400, and 600*F for 30 min baking and cooling times. I have the TPS removed, but am worried I'll ruin the spring mechanism at the higher temps. Any thoughts? I already did the lower coolant piece (IAC removed) and it turned out well.
Jonathan
I couldn't remove it because I still have the tamper-proof plug on the TB, but that's good because it is at the factory length out of the TB.
A #6-32 nut could thread onto it. I took out my calipers and got 5.5-5.75 mm from where the bolt comes out of the opening to the end. I would first verify with a #6-32 bolt you may have laying around the garage that it does thread in and then do the measurements for the bolt length to achieve stock length.
Pics:
P.S. I'm trying to paint the TB and runners with the high temp VHT black paint and it requires baking in the oven at temperatures of 250, 400, and 600*F for 30 min baking and cooling times. I have the TPS removed, but am worried I'll ruin the spring mechanism at the higher temps. Any thoughts? I already did the lower coolant piece (IAC removed) and it turned out well.
Jonathan
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 201
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From: The Ham AL
Thanks for the post. I went to a junk yard and got two idle screws off of various GM cars. When I got home, amazingly I found my screw on my work bench which I never remember removing. Its a good thing I found it because it is a different diameter than the ones I got at the junk yard.
I also call the dealer who promptly told me that everything has been discontinued and he even told me to go to the junk yard.
NOT A GOOD SCREW TO LOOSE - SO DON'T!
I also call the dealer who promptly told me that everything has been discontinued and he even told me to go to the junk yard.
NOT A GOOD SCREW TO LOOSE - SO DON'T!
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 493
From: Denver, NC
The throttle stop is adjusted to an air flow spec at the manufacturer. Once they have been messed with, my experience has been to get the vehicle to temp and adjust the throttle stop untill the IAC steps and TP settings reflect normal scan values. If the stop screw is too far open, the ECMmay not know it is at idle, and/or the IAC will not be able to lower the idle if necessary. If the stop screw doesn't hold the throttle open enough, it may stall on decel because the IAC is at full open simply maintaining idle.
