C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Simple plugs and wires question, please advise!

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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 09:37 AM
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Default Simple plugs and wires question, please advise!

Simple question I feel shameful for even asking......I have an 85 with 28,500 miles on it, still has original plugs and wires. It starts up fine, runs great and only has slight hesistation at times, idles well. I've pulled two of the plugs and they look good. If you observe the wires while running the engine in the dark you don't see a star wars battle sparking here and there, and the wires don't have any cracks, etc. But, we are talking about 23 year old hardware that's been exposed to 200+ degree temperatures Anyone else running original plugs/wires on a car that old? Or should I go ahead and replace them?
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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Default plugs /wires

if were mine i would replace them, and also ohm the injs. they should all be the same +/- 1/2 ohms. if you find some that are way low that is your prob. also change fuel filter
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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Replacing them couldn't hurt. Do the cap and rotor and plugs while you are at it.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 10:00 AM
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Thanks for the advice, this is just was I was thinking as well. I replaced the fuel and air filter when I bought it in March. Cleaning the MAF did wonders.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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BTW, another reason to change the plugs is originally it looks like your year came with platinum plugs (possibly ACDelco 41-817).

If that model plug also had a platinum 'puck' (spot of metal on the inside of the ground electrode), they are known to fall off, causing the gap to change drastically and adversly affect the car's idle and performance.

Since ACDelco does not make a compatible Iridium plug (per their website), your choices of iridium plugs (the prefered replacement to platinum) is limited -- suggest looking at NGK's -- per their web-site: UR5ix with gap carefully re-adjusted to OE spec of 0.45 inches).
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by theadmiral94
BTW, another reason to change the plugs is originally it looks like your year came with platinum plugs (possibly ACDelco 41-817).

If that model plug also had a platinum 'puck' (spot of metal on the inside of the ground electrode), they are known to fall off, causing the gap to change drastically and adversly affect the car's idle and performance.

Since ACDelco does not make a compatible Iridium plug (per their website), your choices of iridium plugs (the prefered replacement to platinum) is limited -- suggest looking at NGK's -- per their web-site: UR5ix with gap carefully re-adjusted to OE spec of 0.45 inches).
Thank you, will do!!!
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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NGK plugs will work well in the L98. Stay away from Taylor wires, I tried 2 sets and both were crap.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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I like the Belden wires I got from NAPPA. And I wouldn't spend a dime more for so called exotic plugs. I like the ACDelcos, you can go to their website and get the right plug.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:19 AM
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I just put MSD Street Fires on my '86 a few weeks ago. Car runs much better than with the Accels I put on earlier this year.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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Default simple answer -- change 'em

fixed a bad skip in a 95 blazer 4.3 v-6, 20k miles, a couple months ago that had one plug wire shorting under load...lotsa room under that hood, fan was mechanical full time run IIRC, probly runs cooler underhood temps than a vette...highly recommend that you also change the "ninth plug" (the o2 sensor), best removed while the exhaust system is hot from engine run.

"spiral wound" conductor plug wires are far superior to "carbon suppression core"
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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I like the NGK TR-55 Double Platinums. It's what I'm firing in my '92 now. And I would change those wires, too.

If you have aluminum heads (they didn't get phased-in on the L-98s until 1986, right?) don't forget the anti-seize compound on those replacement plugs, too.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by formul89
Replacing them couldn't hurt. Do the cap and rotor and plugs while you are at it.
- i'd also pull the throttle body and give it good cleaning. that should clean up the slight hesitation. i just bought a 90 w/42K miles - same issues. i'll be changing the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and cleaning the throttle body shortly. this should give me (and you (OP)) a good performance baseline.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe C
- i'd also pull the throttle body and give it good cleaning. that should clean up the slight hesitation. i just bought a 90 w/42K miles - same issues. i'll be changing the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and cleaning the throttle body shortly. this should give me (and you (OP)) a good performance baseline.
Bump the base timing to 8-10 degrees, depending on what your motor can tolerate after the tune up.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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So is the tune up suddenly going to give the engine more resistance to detonation?
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:14 PM
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how did you clean the MAF?
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
So is the tune up suddenly going to give the engine more resistance to detonation?
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by fastrtnu
how did you clean the MAF?
Buy Mass Air Sensor cleaner from the parts store. Cleans the gunk off the heat sinks and the hot wire. Remove the screens on the MAF while you are at it.
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fastrtnu
how did you clean the MAF?
I used electronic parts cleaner from Radio Shack, it rapidly dissolves and did a great job. I comes in an aerosol spray, about $10, it's the same stuff I used to clean the volume control on an old Denon integrated amplifier. I removed the MAF unit and sprayed several short bursts on the intake side, then did the same on the other side, let it sit out about ten minutes to dry then reinstalled it. I took a fine cotton rag and wiped over the screen too. After hooking it up and cranking the car it took a few seconds for the car to smooth out, it ran much better and response was improved too.

Last edited by birddog85; Sep 18, 2008 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by formul89
Buy Mass Air Sensor cleaner from the parts store. Cleans the gunk off the heat sinks and the hot wire. Remove the screens on the MAF while you are at it.

He's worried about an intermittant driveability concern. The screen is designed to make the air passing through the MAF flow over the wire and give an accurate reading. Don't you think it would be best for him to fix his concern prior to introducing change to a critical sensor?
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