1990 Corvette loping idle, runs rough
Tonight was typical. I drove it 35 miles and it ran fine. I stopped and turned it off and the first time it started up, but the idle was rough. I shut it off again for about 5 minutes, and then it wouldn't start. The battery had plenty of cranking power, but it cranked and cranked and wouldn't start. When I pumped the accelerator, there was no smell of gasoline, so it wasn't like it was flooded.
I tried to start it a dozen times and it wouldn't fire. Finally, I called AAA for a tow, but when they arrived, the car reluctantly started up. I drove it home 35 miles, sweating all the way. The motor ran rough the whole way home, and when I had to stop for traffic lights or stop signs, again I got the loping (up and down) idle and had to gas it to keep it running.
I wrote in about this a couple of weeks ago and thought I had a bad tank of gas. I used Heet to get the water out and thought that would solve the problem. No such luck. I drove the car until it was down to about a quarter tank, then filled it with Chevron's highest octane gas. The problem persists.
Help!
Do you have an FSM and a multimeter?
Do you have an FSM and a multimeter?
Got the Bosh III from Jon at FIC and car has never run better. Check out the "Sticky" at the top of this forum, Injector Videos and questions
Tons of info there
FSM = Factory Service Manual
Good luck
Jim
Last edited by Sweet 90; Sep 22, 2008 at 11:31 AM.
BTW, post were you live, maybe someone here lives close by and can give you a hand.
Randy
BTW, post were you live, maybe someone here lives close by and can give you a hand.
Randy
Anyway, I have an L98, and it looks like I have to remove the throttle cables and exhaust manifolds to get to the injectors. Is there a way of removing and installing the injectors without all that hassle? The factory service manual is no help at all.
Thanks again, everyone. If I can't do this project myself, it won't get done. A shop would charge several hundred dollars labor. I'm not an investment firm or a bank, so I can't get any government money to bail me out of this situation.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
You really only need to remove the plenum, the runners stay were they are, you then take the fuel rail apart, and remove the old injectors. You will need new injectors and a "o" ring kit for the fuel rail and for were the fuel rail connects to the fuel lines to do the job. Good time to replace the ERG vavle, since the plemun will be off and you can install an adjustable fuel regulator too. Make sure the car has less then a half a tank of gas, as you need to disconnect the fuel lines.
Believe me, it is not that hard a job.
Randy


If they're O.E.M. and you have more the 60,000 miles on the wires, they're likely played out and should be replaced. Be sure and replace the wire looms and holders, too. They get brittle from age and intense underhood engine temps and crack and dry rot in place.
Bob Lam’s article on injector removal
http://webpages.charter.net/buddiel/...al)%201-04.doc
Motorcraft fuel injectors
http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.co...ge/5516057.htm
MotorCraft# Ford# Bosch# Borg Warner#
CM-4768 F4SE A1B 0280155700 57810
Injector flow data table
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm
Injector flow rates
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php4
1985-1993 Corvette, Camaro Pontiac T/A Bosch Design III upgrade Fuel Injector
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...&productId=134
Doug’s Dirty Dozen
http://www.lindertech.com/dirty_dzn.htm
TPI Injector Replacement
http://www.thirdgen.org/injectorswap
1997-2004 Fuel Injector Replacement
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07...ors/index.html
NOID light
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...AT447_pg28.htm
How to change your fuel injectors
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/c...uel/index.html
Understanding Fuel Injector Wave Forms
http://www.automotivetestsolutions.c...rWaveforms.htm
Intake Plenum Gasket
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1104544...ductDetail.htm
Fuel rail seal kit
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1136249...ductDetail.htm
Valve Cover Gasket
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP673059/...ductDetail.htm
Regarding Injector Testing:
1990 Corvette 5.7L (VIN8 – L98) Completely Stock
Problem:
When it is cold, the engine consistently starts and runs reliably. After the engine comes up to operating temperature, when it is shut off, it will not start; it cranks but will not run.
Diagnostic Tests:
Following diagnostic chart A3 in the FSM
• No codes are present
• Good spark is present on all cylinders
• When the engine is cold, a noid light blinks reliably on cylinder 1; when the engine is hot, it will not blink
• When the engine is cold, a noid light blinks reliably on cylinder 2; when the engine is hot, it will not blink
• When the engine is hot, disconnecting the cylinder 2 injector will allow the engine to start; reconnecting it while the engine is running will cause the engine to stop running
Injector Resistance:
Cy- Cold - Hot
1 - 16.7 - 17.3
2 - 06.4 - 00.7
3 - 12.6 - 08.9
4 - 16.1 - 15.1
5 - 16.8 - 17.6
6 - 15.5 - 12.2
7 - 15.6 - 12.1
8 - 16.1 - 16.9
Conclusion:
Injector #2 shorts out completely when it is hot. When cold at 6.4 ohms, it will alllow the engine to start and run.
By the Way:
I cured a loping idle in my '90 by cleaning the Throttle Body and IAC; I now do it as routine maintenance once every other year.
.
Last edited by chevylu; Sep 23, 2008 at 09:48 AM. Reason: more info
You really only need to remove the plenum, the runners stay were they are, you then take the fuel rail apart, and remove the old injectors. You will need new injectors and a "o" ring kit for the fuel rail and for were the fuel rail connects to the fuel lines to do the job. Good time to replace the ERG vavle, since the plemun will be off and you can install an adjustable fuel regulator too. Make sure the car has less then a half a tank of gas, as you need to disconnect the fuel lines.
Believe me, it is not that hard a job.
Randy
If they're O.E.M. and you have more the 60,000 miles on the wires, they're likely played out and should be replaced. Be sure and replace the wire looms and holders, too. They get brittle from age and intense underhood engine temps and crack and dry rot in place.
Bob Lam’s article on injector removal
http://webpages.charter.net/buddiel/...al)%201-04.doc
Motorcraft fuel injectors
http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.co...ge/5516057.htm
MotorCraft# Ford# Bosch# Borg Warner#
CM-4768 F4SE A1B 0280155700 57810
Injector flow data table
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm
Injector flow rates
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php4
1985-1993 Corvette, Camaro Pontiac T/A Bosch Design III upgrade Fuel Injector
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...&productId=134
Doug’s Dirty Dozen
http://www.lindertech.com/dirty_dzn.htm
TPI Injector Replacement
http://www.thirdgen.org/injectorswap
1997-2004 Fuel Injector Replacement
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07...ors/index.html
NOID light
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...AT447_pg28.htm
How to change your fuel injectors
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/c...uel/index.html
Understanding Fuel Injector Wave Forms
http://www.automotivetestsolutions.c...rWaveforms.htm
Intake Plenum Gasket
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1104544...ductDetail.htm
Fuel rail seal kit
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1136249...ductDetail.htm
Valve Cover Gasket
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP673059/...ductDetail.htm
Regarding Injector Testing:
1990 Corvette 5.7L (VIN8 – L98) Completely Stock
Problem:
When it is cold, the engine consistently starts and runs reliably. After the engine comes up to operating temperature, when it is shut off, it will not start; it cranks but will not run.
Diagnostic Tests:
Following diagnostic chart A3 in the FSM
• No codes are present
• Good spark is present on all cylinders
• When the engine is cold, a noid light blinks reliably on cylinder 1; when the engine is hot, it will not blink
• When the engine is cold, a noid light blinks reliably on cylinder 2; when the engine is hot, it will not blink
• When the engine is hot, disconnecting the cylinder 2 injector will allow the engine to start; reconnecting it while the engine is running will cause the engine to stop running
Injector Resistance:
Cy- Cold - Hot
1 - 16.7 - 17.3
2 - 06.4 - 00.7
3 - 12.6 - 08.9
4 - 16.1 - 15.1
5 - 16.8 - 17.6
6 - 15.5 - 12.2
7 - 15.6 - 12.1
8 - 16.1 - 16.9
Conclusion:
Injector #2 shorts out completely when it is hot. When cold at 6.4 ohms, it will alllow the engine to start and run.
By the Way:
I cured a loping idle in my '90 by cleaning the Throttle Body and IAC; I now do it as routine maintenance once every other year.
.
1989, has logged another 30K since the injectors were cleaned through the fuel rails, 140K total, & it still has the original injectors. So for me the jury is still out.












